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A Tuscan Trattoria Treat

   

Of all the regions in Italy, it is Tuscany that overwhelms you with its natural beauty. In virtually every town you visit, ample evidence of a remarkable past is present: perfectly preserved churches, palaces and piazzas, museums stacked with precious works of art, and a landscape to form the backdrop of a Raphael’s portrait study.

And as you sit on a shady cobbled piazza, sipping a glass of pale white Chianti Classico Vernaccia, watching the locals. The way of life in Tuscany seems so well balanced : between work and siesta, reserve and exuberance, sophisticated and tradition.
 


Chianti Wine Region of Tuscany

Tuscany is not only the birthplace of Leonardo, Michelangelo and Dante, but of the Renaissance itself. So it might come as something of a surprise to discover that Tuscan food most commonly found in the region’s traditional restaurants bears no traces of it’s sophisticated past - instead, you will find simple, earthy peasant food, based around breads, tomatoes and beans.

Chianti Classico is the wine heartland of Tuscany, today a beautiful countryside that served in times past as the battleground in struggles between Florence and Siena. The principal “wine towns” are Greve, Radda and Castellina.

There have been a number of changes to the Italian wine law in the 1990’s. The categories now resemble the French system more closely : the most basic category without vintage, grape variety or place or origin (Vino Da Tavola).

A new category, equivalent to the French Vin De Pays, applying to wines typical of their region (IGT). The third category, the largest, placing restrictions on geography, grape varieties, yield and aging is called DOC. The top level of Italian classification, including all abovementioned controls, are labelled DOCG of which only 6 wines are from this region.
 

Red grape varieties include Sangiovese, Italy’s most widely planted grape and most important in Tuscany. It has shown tremendous class on its own and in blends with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. Less known varieties are Canaiolo and Lalvasia Nera to bring colour and a distinctive scent to Sangiovese-based wines.

Whites are Vernaccia, (important only in San Gimignano, with a floral herbal scent) Chardonnay (introduced to this region in the 1980’s with hints of ripe peach, melon and oaky flavours) as well as the Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino, Pinot Blanc and Viognier. Interesting to note that Viognier is also now produced at Rustenburg / Brampton in the Stellenbosch region.


Vino Rosso Di Chianti

Just 4 km south of Greve, on route to Panzano, is the Moutagliari Estate, a typical Agriturismo, where the renowned Trattoria Del Montagliari Restaurant is found. In summertime, you can sit on a gorgeous outside terrace shaded by Acacia trees and bordered with wild roses, looking out over vineyards and the Val Di Greve.

As a starter, we tried Crostini Di Milza, rounds of toast, spread with warm, spicy pungent pâté, made in Panzano by the famous classical-music-playing butcher. For a Secondo, local roast of young lamb, Agnellino Al Forno, is meltingly good and served with garden herbs, Gagiolo (beans) and Bietola (beetroot greens).

The popular wine fair is held in the month of September in the medieval town of Greve.

Some 50 km to the southwest of Greve, lies the interesting medieval town of San Gimignano. Also referred to as the Manhattan of Tuscany, this well preserved “traffic free” town has now only 13 stone towers, (although there were once more than 70) reaching to the blue cloudless Tuscan skies.


The Towers of San Gimignano

Best known for its white wines since the 13th century, this region should be on anybody’s itinerary, visiting Tuscany. You park your car outside the town walls and walk your way over cobbled streets to the petit square in the centre, Piazza Della Cisterna (meaning Piazza with a well) where you will find the little pensione with the same name : right in the centre, attractive “old world” outside, comfortably furnished inside, not expensive.

Many small art and craft and wine shops line the narrow cobbled streets. During daytime in season, crowded with day visitors, but as soon as the last tour bus leaves at 16h00, the town’s hustle and bustle fades away and you become a celebrity to a storybook picture town ...
 

 

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