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Despite the fact that
Slovenia is more easily accessible than for instance
Hungary or the Baltic States, it is still not on the
usual traveller’s itinerary list. Only an hour’s drive east of
Venice and bordering the Austrian Alps in the north, this country
will be to everyone’s taste:
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A diverse contrasting natural wonderland for both hiker and
photographer – sheer vertical cliffs, luscious indigenous forests
and serene aqua-coloured lakes.
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An outstanding wealth of architectural examples of the Venetian
era and art gems, fortifications and vernacular heritage awaits
the traveller.
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Friendly and courteous people
ensure that their country lays the table for a most enjoyable stay
– combined with an array of delicate cuisine and award-winning
wines, makes Slovenia the ideal travel destination.
Thrust into the
spotlight in 1991 as the capital of a newly self-confident nation,
Ljubljana is one of Europe’s brightest and most
engaging small cities. Hailed as the Little Prague, it offers
an unique mix of attractive features like a dazzling hilltop castle
as her crown and the emerald green river at her feet. This princess
of capitals is compact and relatively small, whose name means
beloved / ljubljena in Slovene, also acts as a working girl,
being the country’s political, economic and cultural capital, where
virtually everything of national importance begins, ends or is
taking place.
Not only has this city a
buzzing young student community (some 60 000 students), but many
interesting works of art makes of the old town almost an open
sculpture gallery. With tables spilling into the narrow cobblestone
streets, wine bars offer sips of Slovenia’s best export produce and
street musicians and actors entertain passers-by on Preçernov
trg square
connecting with the famous triple bridge. So too is the lovely
Cankarjevo riverbank promenade, shaded by willows and crammed
with cafes that condenses all the charm and warmth of Ljubljana,
especially when a good-natured flea market sets up its stalls on a
sunny Sunday morning.
Adria Airways
and Austrian Airlines have various daily flights in and out
of the capital, Ljubljana, serving many European
destinations. Although quite expensive, all the major car rental
companies are available in the country. Accommodation options will
suite all tastes and budgets, with the emphasise on privately owned
and managed pensiones. |

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Slovenia counts more
than 6000 karst caves and sinkholes created by disappearing rivers.
If you can imagine the land surface as an Emmerthaler cheese
with its distinct large holes, you will get the picture. The
abundant rain and snow of the northwestern region vanishes into
these holes and resurfaces on the fringes of karst fields called
polje. Some of the lakes are therefore intermittent, appear at
certain times, whereas others become subterranean rivers and caves.
The Skoçjan Caves is listed an UNESCO World Heritage
site and Postojna Caves are well worth the detour. |
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Situated nearby in
the gaping mouth of a cavern halfway up a 125-metre cliff,
Predjama Castle has a dramatic setting. Although
there was a building from prehistoric times, where people found
shelter, it was first mentioned in the 13th century.
Striking brightly coloured geraniums and striped louvers
decorate the otherwise sombre elevation of the castle. |
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One of the many residents of this fortress was Erasmus Lueger,
Slovenia’s answer to Robin Hood. Despite the governor of
Trieste’s attempt to starve and capture Lueger, he had not reckoned
on the secret natural passage, through which came a constant supply
of fresh food. Finally betrayed by a double-dealing servant, he was
murdered and it is said that is buried under the linden tree, later
planted by his girlfriend next to the Church of our Lady of
Sorrows.
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While neighbouring
Croatia’s long and sweeping, island-studded coastline tends to
overshadow the modest 47-kilometer Slovenia’s slice of the
Adriatic, the attraction of the latter lies in its unique
coastal towns. Picturesque Piran, almost isolated at
the tip of a narrow peninsula, is a protected cultural monument. |

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Its old town is a gem of
Venetian Gothic architecture and a maze of narrow atmospheric
streets flow like little brooks onto the impressive Piazza
Tartinijev Trg, the central town square.
Boisterous children on
their roller blades, an artist chiselling his mermaid sculpture, two
young lovers, mothers with their prams – all actors on this centre
stage. Moreover, present as if a watchdog, the parish church of
St George’s bell tower, announcing every quarter of the hour
with a relict of sound. |
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The Soça
Valley
and Triglav
National Park, richly textured by nature’s contrasts of
high mountains, autumn-coloured forests, cascading rivers and
plummeting waterfalls, are Slovenia’s most captivating regions. |
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Travelling along the
scenic Soça Valley one has a choice of taking the much
longer route north via Kobarid, Bovec and Vrsiç
to eventually reach Lake Bled, or take a shortcut via the
Baska Grapa Valley and train-tunnel directly to Bohinj. |
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Kobarid
was described by Ernest
Hemingway as a little white town with a campanile in a valley,
in his book A Farewell to Arms, but unfortunately, both
World Wars had a very negative impact on this relaxed town. The
nearby memorial cemetery is a reminder of the devastating results of
war. However, one of Slovenia’s finest restaurants, serving high
quality Slovenian cuisine, the Topli Val at the Hvala
Hotel, can be found at the Svobode Town square, in the
centre next to the Parish Church.
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Driving through the
northwestern part of Triglav National Park, the
narrow road strip curls through many a mountain pass and
valleys, crossing little bubbling brooks and passing the highest
Mount Rombon Peak. The ever-changing late afternoon’s
sunlight ensures magnificent photo shots very similar to the
dramatic Dolomite Alpine Range in northern Italy. |
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With its emerald-green
lake, picture-postcard island church, cliff-topping medieval castle
and its mountain backdrop, Bled is Slovenia’s most
popular tourist attraction. One thousand years old in 2004, it is a
good place for hikes into the eastern tranche of the Julian Alps
and Vintgar Gorge. A most romantic way to reach the little
church on the island, is by gondola.
Alongside natural beauty
and the superlative of the largest glacial lake in the country,
Lake Bohinj, is far less crowded with some excellent
accommodation to the likes of Hotel Jezero. Numerous hiking
routes, as well as a vintage ferry will provide tranquil excursions.
The cable car, which sweeps with speed to the summit of Mount
Vogel operates, weather permitting. The views are superb, to the
jagged peaks of the Julian Alps to the three heads of
Mount Triglav.
True wine-country is
found to the northeast of Slovenia. In Maribor is
Stara Trta, the oldest example of living noble vine. Planted
more than 400 years ago on the left bank of the River
Drava, it is a wonderful exhibit of nature's resilience
surviving a number of revolutions and two world wars. The oldest
visual records of the house on Vojasniska Street 8 with the
old vine are from 1657. A massive reconstruction of this part of
Maribor in the 1980's and a recent opening of the Old Vine House
restored the glory of this ancient beauty. |
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Our last destination was Ptuj, a pocketsize town
deeply routed in the wine industry and with enough history to
call itself a millennial treasure trove. Needless to say, we had
to enjoy its famous Jeruzalem Ormoz and Pullus
wines of the region – the venue: Gostilna Ribiç
on the banks of the Drava at sunset. Moreover, what a
wonderful fulfilling experience to digest and ponder over our
past seven days in Slovenia – a country with vibrant people,
unforgettable scenery and gorgeous wine that we will most surely
return to in the future.
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Johann and Monique |
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