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In the early morning you hike in the Julian Alps, lunchtime you enjoy some of the best Pullus wines of Eastern Europe in Ptuj and still be in time to experience the last emerald glare of a super sunset over the Adriatic Sea in Piran – all possible in a single day in a very compact country, once the settlement of the Alpine Slavs.

 

 

Despite the fact that Slovenia is more easily accessible than for instance Hungary or the Baltic States, it is still not on the usual traveller’s itinerary list. Only an hour’s drive east of Venice and bordering the Austrian Alps in the north, this country will be to everyone’s taste:

  • A diverse contrasting natural wonderland for both hiker and photographer – sheer vertical cliffs, luscious indigenous forests and serene aqua-coloured lakes.

  • An outstanding wealth of architectural examples of the Venetian era and art gems, fortifications and vernacular heritage awaits the traveller.

  • Friendly and courteous people ensure that their country lays the table for a most enjoyable stay – combined with an array of delicate cuisine and award-winning wines, makes Slovenia the ideal travel destination.

Thrust into the spotlight in 1991 as the capital of a newly self-confident nation, Ljubljana is one of Europe’s brightest and most engaging small cities. Hailed as the Little Prague, it offers an unique mix of attractive features like a dazzling hilltop castle as her crown and the emerald green river at her feet. This princess of capitals is compact and relatively small, whose name means beloved / ljubljena in Slovene, also acts as a working girl, being the country’s political, economic and cultural capital, where virtually everything of national importance begins, ends or is taking place.

Not only has this city a buzzing young student community (some 60 000 students), but many interesting works of art makes of the old town almost an open sculpture gallery. With tables spilling into the narrow cobblestone streets, wine bars offer sips of Slovenia’s best export produce and street musicians and actors entertain passers-by on Preçernov trg square connecting with the famous triple bridge. So too is the lovely Cankarjevo riverbank promenade, shaded by willows and crammed with cafes that condenses all the charm and warmth of Ljubljana, especially when a good-natured flea market sets up its stalls on a sunny Sunday morning.

Adria Airways and Austrian Airlines have various daily flights in and out of the capital, Ljubljana, serving many European destinations. Although quite expensive, all the major car rental companies are available in the country. Accommodation options will suite all tastes and budgets, with the emphasise on privately owned and managed pensiones.


 

  

Slovenia counts more than 6000 karst caves and sinkholes created by disappearing rivers. If you can imagine the land surface as an Emmerthaler cheese with its distinct large holes, you will get the picture. The abundant rain and snow of the northwestern region vanishes into these holes and resurfaces on the fringes of karst fields called polje. Some of the lakes are therefore intermittent, appear at certain times, whereas others become subterranean rivers and caves. The Skoçjan Caves is listed an UNESCO World Heritage site and Postojna Caves are well worth the detour.

 

 

  

Situated nearby in the gaping mouth of a cavern halfway up a 125-metre cliff, Predjama Castle has a dramatic setting. Although there was a building from prehistoric times, where people found shelter, it was first mentioned in the 13th century. Striking brightly coloured geraniums and striped louvers decorate the otherwise sombre elevation of the castle.

       
One of the many residents of this fortress was Erasmus Lueger, Slovenia’s answer to Robin Hood. Despite the governor of Trieste’s attempt to starve and capture Lueger, he had not reckoned on the secret natural passage, through which came a constant supply of fresh food. Finally betrayed by a double-dealing servant, he was murdered and it is said that is buried under the linden tree, later planted by his girlfriend next to the Church of our Lady of Sorrows.
  

While neighbouring Croatia’s long and sweeping, island-studded coastline tends to overshadow the modest 47-kilometer Slovenia’s slice of the Adriatic, the attraction of the latter lies in its unique coastal towns. Picturesque Piran, almost isolated at the tip of a narrow peninsula, is a protected cultural monument.


  

 

Its old town is a gem of Venetian Gothic architecture and a maze of narrow atmospheric streets flow like little brooks onto the impressive Piazza Tartinijev Trg, the central town square.

Boisterous children on their roller blades, an artist chiselling his mermaid sculpture, two young lovers, mothers with their prams – all actors on this centre stage. Moreover, present as if a watchdog, the parish church of St George’s bell tower, announcing every quarter of the hour with a relict of sound.

 

The Soça Valley and Triglav National Park, richly textured by nature’s contrasts of high mountains, autumn-coloured forests, cascading rivers and plummeting waterfalls, are Slovenia’s most captivating regions.

   

Travelling along the scenic Soça Valley one has a choice of taking the much longer route north via Kobarid, Bovec and Vrsiç to eventually reach Lake Bled, or take a shortcut via the Baska Grapa Valley and train-tunnel directly to Bohinj.

   

Kobarid was described by Ernest Hemingway as a little white town with a campanile in a valley, in his book A Farewell to Arms, but unfortunately, both World Wars had a very negative impact on this relaxed town. The nearby memorial cemetery is a reminder of the devastating results of war. However, one of Slovenia’s finest restaurants, serving high quality Slovenian cuisine, the Topli Val at the Hvala Hotel, can be found at the Svobode Town square, in the centre next to the Parish Church.

Driving through the northwestern part of Triglav National Park, the narrow road strip curls through many a mountain pass and valleys, crossing little bubbling brooks and passing the highest Mount Rombon Peak. The ever-changing late afternoon’s sunlight ensures magnificent photo shots very similar to the dramatic Dolomite Alpine Range in northern Italy.

 

With its emerald-green lake, picture-postcard island church, cliff-topping medieval castle and its mountain backdrop, Bled is Slovenia’s most popular tourist attraction. One thousand years old in 2004, it is a good place for hikes into the eastern tranche of the Julian Alps and Vintgar Gorge. A most romantic way to reach the little church on the island, is by gondola.

Alongside natural beauty and the superlative of the largest glacial lake in the country, Lake Bohinj, is far less crowded with some excellent accommodation to the likes of Hotel Jezero. Numerous hiking routes, as well as a vintage ferry will provide tranquil excursions. The cable car, which sweeps with speed to the summit of Mount Vogel operates, weather permitting. The views are superb, to the jagged peaks of the Julian Alps to the three heads of Mount Triglav.

True wine-country is found to the northeast of Slovenia. In Maribor is Stara Trta, the oldest example  of living noble vine. Planted more than 400 years ago on the left bank of the River Drava, it is a wonderful exhibit of nature's resilience surviving a number of revolutions and two world wars. The oldest visual records of the house on Vojasniska Street 8 with the old vine are from 1657. A massive reconstruction of this part of Maribor in the 1980's and a recent opening of the Old Vine House restored the glory of this ancient beauty.

 
Our last destination was Ptuj, a pocketsize town deeply routed in the wine industry and with enough history to call itself a millennial treasure trove. Needless to say, we had to enjoy its famous Jeruzalem Ormoz and Pullus wines of the region – the venue: Gostilna Ribi
ç on the banks of the Drava at sunset. Moreover, what a wonderful fulfilling experience to digest and ponder over our past seven days in Slovenia – a country with vibrant people, unforgettable scenery and gorgeous wine that we will most surely return to in the future.  

        

 

- Johann and Monique