|
Just to
behold the majestic buildings themselves is more than worth-while, but
to also attend a performance – whether it be an opera, ballet, symphony
concert or musical – not only enhances the visit, but contributes to a
holistic experience far above that of the normal traveller. The memories
that you then take home are much more than just admiration for what the
eye saw, but are ingrained deep inside – especially if you were
privileged to have seen and heard the performance of a world-famous
artist. |
|
One of the
most memorable experiences at an opera house that my wife and I had, was
some years ago at the Vienna State Opera. We were unsuccessful in
obtaining tickets for a performance there whilst we were in the city.
Since this famous opera house is the venue where the South African
colorature soprano, Mimi Coertze, gained international fame as
Kamersängerin (“resident singer”), we eagerly wanted to see it.
On a particular day we were exploring the city from early that morning.
In the late afternoon we were in the vicinity of the opera house.
Because it was summertime, we were casually clad – shorts, T-shirts -
and were carrying parcels of our day’s purchases. We decided to just
have a quick look at the majestic building. But what a surprise! A
performance was taking place that evening and the spectators were
already arriving, all dressed up. The looks that we generated, were
quite meaningful!
But then I saw a sign above a small window saying “Standing tickets”. A
few were available, and without hestitation, I bought. But then we had
to climb the stairs to the top floor, six stories up. All along the way
we were reminded that we did not belong there. At the entrance door our
progress was blocked, because we were not “properly clad”. Then,
standing aside like paupers, I saw an unmanned door ... and we quickly
slipped inside. There we stood, in this majestic auditorium, without
even knowing what was being performed.
A standing neighbour, eyeing us with sympathy, lent us his programme for
a moment - and then we were overwhelmed. The South African tenor, Johan
Botha, was in the title role of Wagner’s opera Lohengrin! Since
our feet and legs were tired from a long day’s walk, we just stayed
until the end of the long, first act. And then - just before the curtain
was lowered - I hailed Johan loud and clear with: “Vrystaaat”! He
stopped on his way out, and waved upwards – something that we cherish up
to this day!
What we
learned from this experience is that it is advisable to book your places
well in advance. This we did for a recent trip to Europe for
performances in three world-famous theaters and opera houses: the
Mariinskiy Theatre in St. Petersburg, the Staatsoper Unter den
Linden in Berlin, and the Semper Opera House in Dresden. |
 |
|
An evening at
the
Mariinskiy
Theatre
has to form an essential part of any visit to St. Petersburg. It is
situated on the banks of the Kryokov Canal, in the Theatre Square, the
cultural hub and one of the most beautiful architectural ensembles in
the city. Just opposite the theatre stands the Rimsky-Korsakov
Conservatoire, the home of Russia’s oldest music school. Just south
of the theatre, also alongside the canal, is the stunning Baroque St
Nicholas Cathedral with its five gilded domes and white and sky-blue
facade, decorated by Corinthian columns. To the west of the Square the
Yusupovsky Palace (where the infamous Rasputin was murdered),
with its spectacular interior, is to be found.
The
Mariinskiy
has been named in honour of Tsar Alexanders II’s wife, Maria; however,
it is also known abroad by its previous Soviet regime title, the
Kirov. Built in 1860 to be a rival to Moscow’s Bolshoi Theatre,
it soon became famous for performances of most of the great operas and
ballets, as well as the illustrious dancers and singers drawn to its
stage. We were lucky to see the famous Anna Treblenko perform in Bizet’s
opera Carmen. When booking a few months earlier the price,
although high for South African visitors, was affordable. However, about
three weeks before our visit, we were informed that Nebtrenko – who was
at that time performing in a La Boheme season in the Vienna State
Opera - had agreed to sing for one night only at the
Mariinskiy,
by chance the same night that we would attend. But, to our
disappointment, the prices for that night had almost doubled! Indicating
that we therefore had to cancel our bookings, the reply came that they
were willing to allow us to attend for the original price. What memories
we have of this world-class performance in such a special place.
The Staatsoper unter den Linden (State Opera House) in Berlin
with its Neo-Classical exterior, coloquially called the Linderoper,
is situated in one of the most iconic boulevards, called Unter den
Linden (“under the linden trees”), in the historic section of the
city. Some of the main points of interest are the main building of the
Humbolt University, just opposite, the Deutsches Historishes
Museum (German Museum of History), and the equestrian statue of
King Frederic II. To the eastern end the Schlossbrücke
(Palace Bridge), and on the western end the historic Brandenburger
Tor (Brandenburg Gate) marks the ends of the boulevard.
From the outside the Linderoper is not so conspicious amongst the other
majestic buildings. However, when entering, it becomes special. Just
inside the doors you can collect your tickets. Through another set of
doors you go into the lobby with its lush colours and crystal
chandeliers. This is where you can socialize with a glass of champagne
in hand during intervals. Although the dress code allows travellers to
wear less formal attire, many are in evening dress, which adds to the
sophisticated atmosphere.
Through the years a number of famous conducters worked at the theatre,
amongst them Herbert von Karajan, Otmar Suitner and at present Daniël
Bärenboim. Even the composer Richard Strauss once held the leadership
(from 1899 – 1913). It feels as if the voices from long ago can be heard
whispering when you take your seat in the impressive auditorium, where
we saw Donizetti’s lively and comic opera L’ Elesir de Amour.
Of the three opera houses that we visited during our trip, we found the
Semper Opera House in Dresden the most majestic. It has a prime
location on the Theaterplatz, a beautiful square next to the Elbe
River, and surrounded by some of the city’s most famous buildings – all
of them perfectly restored after severe damage during World War II. |
 |
|
Next to the theatre lies the impressive and large baroque complex called
the Zwinger Palace. On the opposite side of the theatre
the Hofkirche (Church of the Court) with its 83 m high belfry
overlooks the square. Next to the cathedral a 102 meter long mural along
a walkway decorated by 25 ceramic tiles depicts a parade of Saxony’s
rulers, called the Fürstenzug (Procession of Rulers). In the
centre of the square, in front of the opera house, stands a large
equestrian statue of King Johann, erected in 1889.
The Semperoper, as it is fondly called, was originally built
between 1838 and 1841), and designed in Neo-Renaissance style by
Gottfried Semper. Although burnt down by a fire in 1869, and again
destroyed in 1945, it was subsequently rebuilt according to the original
plans. This oval shaped building’s large central portal is topped by a
panther-drawn carriage, carrying the Greek god of art, Dionysos, and
Ariadne. Statues of famous writers such as Goethe, Schiller,
Shakespeare, Sophocles and Molière adorn the niches outside.
The interior was originally designed by one of the famous architects of
the time, Johannes Schilling. The circular walkways inside the theatre
before entering the auditorium, are impressive; at some places decorated
with colourful marble columns and glittering chandeliers. The six
storied auditorium seating 1 300 spectators is just as spectacular.
Famous operas of composers like Wagner and Richard Strauss were
premiered here. We were privileged to see a lesser known opera of
Guiseppi Verdi, namely, Macbeth, transponded by innovative
choreography to a time around World War II. This dramatic opera, based
on Shakespeare’s play, includes a number of beautiful arias and choral
pieces.
Without doubt any oversea’s visit will be immensely enhanced by visits
to landmarks such as these to be found all around the world – La
Scala in Milan, the Bolshoi in Moscow, Covent Garden
in London, the Bayreuth Opera House, the Metropolitan in
New York, the Sydney Opera House ...
– Manie
|
 |
