Sure Etnique Travel Newsletter

Imagine walking down a street in a town where time seems to have stopped centuries ago. The unevenly surface of the cobblestones forced you to focus on the ground; but then, when you reached the next corner of this maze of curved streets, you looked left and right only to see the amazing décor of mural paintings on each building …

Imagine you are in the Bavarian Alpine region, with pictorial villages nestled in an evergreen valley just north of the Ammergau Mountains.

From the summit of the Zugspitze you look down on the landscape below. The broken cloud blanket opens up, unveiling a mosaic of many paddocks, cultivated fields, scattered farm steads and meandering rural roads. And in a distance, you can gaze onto four countries stretching out in four wind directions: to the south Italy, the east Austria, the west Switzerland and the north Germany.

Imagine you are fortunate enough to have a preview of a unique religious event being staged only every ten years since 1634 - some twenty years prior Jan van Riebeeck set foot on African soil! We visited this region recently to finalise unique tailor-made packages of the Passion Play for our customers.

After leaving Garmish Partenkirche, you will first pass through Ettal, set in a scenic Alpine valley. The huge dark green dome of the baroque basilica of the Benedictine abbey dominates this little village scene. Today’s monastery still has about 55 enterprising monks, who manage a boarding school, a publishing business, a hotel restaurant, a brewery and a distillery churning out the famous Ettaler Klosterlikör, a sweet herbal digestive.

Once you leave Ettal, you drive passed green pastures with patches of brightly-coloured yellow-gold sunflowers, before reaching the multi-coloured tiled roofs, mostly residential, on the foot hills of Kofel Mountain backdrop. Oberammergau has some 5500 residents. Most of them are well-known artists and colourful descendants for generations, forming part of and contributing towards the history of their famous Bavarian village. One can also sense the presence of true family values: laughing young children on bicycles, residents nurturing small flower gardens, families coming together.

The Passion Play, in which only past and present residents are allowed to partake, originated from the affliction caused by the 30-year War, when the plague of the Black Death took a toll of almost 20 percent of the inhabitants. The villagers vowed that, if the pestilence were taken from them, they would perform the Passion Play every ten years. This year the first performance will take play on 15 May running through until the 3^rd of October.

Each time, some 18 months prior to the 4 months series of repeating performances, the leading and supporting roles are awarded and the participants started to grow their hair and beards.

As a visitor to their village, you sense the warmth and friendliness of the people. Whether a waiter, a bank cashier, a shop owner or a tour guide, they are all true ambassadors of their heritage.

Oberammergau is not only renowned for its performance once every decade, but is a true mecca for art lovers. The Skulpturenweg – sculpture path – comprises of a series of sculptures, set all around Oberammergau and neighbouring towns, by local artists who already have established themselves in the world of art. But it all starts with the children: fences brightly decorated with children art.

A striking example is Reflexionen by Katherina Häbler, comprising of three concrete figures, set in cobblestones within a water pond, reflecting different moods in different seasons. Next to the entrance to the Museum, you will find Mädchen, a sculpture by Jenny Eichler focusing on puberty in a young girl.

During a previous visit to Oberammergau, the studio of Hermann Schilcher was closed. However, we were rewarded by meeting him in person during our recent visit.

Although the door was locked, I still pressed the obscure door bell, almost concealed behind the autumn coloured leaves of a wall creeper. I heard the shuffle of feet, slowly making their way to the door. A piece of woodcarving art, fitted to huge old hinges, opened slowly.

Ash-grey beard, soft and friendly deep-blue eyes and an inviting smile: Guten Tag! Kommen sie herein! Hermann, aged 75, invited us into his small one-room studio, located in St Lukasstrasse on the outskirts of the village. And for the next hour we just sat and listened to the many stories of his life and the inspiration that motivated each piece of art.

Throughout the many villages of this region you’ll come across time-worn houses with facades swathed in frescoes called Lüftlmalerei. The term literally means air painting, but is actually derived from a house in Oberammergau called Zum Lüftl, originally owned by Franz Zwinck, who pioneered the practice. Images usually have a localised, religious theme, but some would also depict the profession of the house owner.

For the period of the performances during May until October, all available accommodation in the many hotels in Oberammergau and adjoining villages have been set aside exclusively for travellers wishing to attend the Passion Play. Every possible room available at private residences has also been reserved.

Therefore no seat to attend the performance will be made available by the organisers, without buying either a one-night or two-night package. Although all our pre-bought packages have been sold out, it might still be possible to enquire on travellers behalf for availability on certain dates.

The Oberammergau experience has been more than just visiting yet another German village. You will find everything within the the maze of curved narrow cobblestone streets: the ambience of the setting, the wealth of an interesting history, the hospitality of their wine bars and restaurants and the warmth of the people …

- Johann and Monique