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When you open
your eyes just a little wider and listen just a bit more
intensely, it's possible to discover a whole new side of the
world. And perhaps there's no more perfect place to do this than
a country neighbouring South Africa: a place that sometimes
feels like ten countries rolled into one.
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So, open
your eyes a little wider when planning to head west, and
take time to discover the charming ruggedness from the two
chairs on the stoep. |
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Looking up, you can only see the
crystal clear, transparent deep blue sky; looking down, you
sense the total quietness of the vast desert dunes, lurking in
the early morning sun like a series of huge dinosaurs’ spines;
looking over the endless, almost eerie mirage landscape, the
only movement that cannot escape your binocular sight is
the twitching horns of a distant Oryx.
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Namibia
represents an uneasy
compromise between exploring man and threatened nature; each to
carve out their territory of choice. Jagged and, in places,
treacherous natural borders were created by centuries of
flooding waters of the rare flowing rivers, persistent erosion
by a mighty ocean and forceful winds – all of which crafted and
painted this unique landscape, still present today. Although
this seemingly barren land can be a welcome ally, it can also
become an even greater enemy – yet
Namibia
will always win.
The many faces
of Namibia
represent a world of ever-changing colours, a myriad of
different panoramas, and an inspiring, young democracy of warm
and friendly people, proud to showcase their native land to any
potential visitor.
This country is
a rough diamond on the south-west coast of Africa, waiting to be
cut and polished by any eager traveller, even so more the keen
photographers, for whom the ever-changing landscape creates a
colourful pallet for their skills. |
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So often it is said that you can
only experience the beauty of
Namibia
on a professionally-organised safari, or as a 4-by-4 fanatic,
but we have recently proven the opposite. From Johannesburg, we
flew into Windhoek
in less than 2 hours, travelled almost 4000 kilometers through
Namibia
with a normal 2-wheel drive vehicle, without any hassles of even
a flat tyre, and experienced first hand most of the beauty of
the country. |
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Obviously,
one cannot drive on all the minor, nerve-racking 35 000
kilometre routes, only accessible by a specialised,
four-wheel drive, high bed vehicle, like the Caprivi
and Kaokoland regions of the north, or some remote
roads within the Naukluft and Sperrgebiet
areas. |
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However, with
some careful planning and pre-knowledge of the environment, you
can experience many a special corner, and some of the world’s
great natural wonders: from the geological escarpment fantasy of
the Fish River Canyon, right in the south of the country,
to the miracle of a multitude of the ever-changing meandering
sand dunes of Sossusvlei,
www.sossusvleilodge.com
to the archeological
rarities of Twyfelfontein’s rock engravings, the Burnt
Mountain and Petrified Forest, and concluding at the
many waterholes of the Etosha Wildlife Park, near the
northern border.
www.etoshanationalpark.co.za
But the real
asset of this exciting country is its people. Descended from
South Africa,
where the racism-flame can still burning between both white and
black, and controversial and unnecessary statements are still
frequently made by insensitive people for political gain only,
we were embraced by the openness and warmth of most of the
peoples of Namibia. Understanding the essence of tourism, the
local people control and prevent possible crime on grass route
level themselves, ensuring an almost absence of incidents that
might possibly deter potential tourists. |

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With a Robinson Bird Guide
and a book on the fauna and flora of Namibia in his hand,
Esso, a young local, who grew up near the Spitskoppen,
escorts us on a sightseeing drive on the farm Hohenstein,
near Usakos, where we lodged the first night. With a
proud sense of authority he tells many stories of the family
birds building their communial nests and medicinal plants,
as if nature is his back garden.
www.hohensteinlodge.de
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As a young student, I visited
Swakopmund and the
Namib Desert many years
ago – even had a nerve-racking experience, taunting the dangers
of the dunes with an open jeep. This time Monique and I were on
a day-excursion past the salt refining works as habitat for the
multitude of waterbirds, and further into the wild of the
desert, all the way south of Walvis Bay to Sandwich
Harbour, with Bruno, the experienced nature lover.
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Leaving Walvis
Bay with a day-license, we soon reached the spot where the high
dunes reach right into the cold waters of the west coast, having
to linger until complete low tide. This is an opportune time to
enjoy a nice cold Sauvignon Blanc on the dunes high above the
stormy ocean, as well as the cold salad platter, paté and
freshly baked German bread, all laid out on a table under
umbrella. Not only his knowledge of the desert and its fauna and
flora, but also his charisma as an excellent ambassador of his
country, contribute to the success of Bruno’s personalised
tourist business over the past 15 years.
www.turnstone-tours.com
The almost 100
kilometer drive over quite some challenging terrain to
eventually reach the north-western escarpment of the Fish River
Canyon, was all worth the trouble. An eco-friendly gem, Fish
River Lodge has been developed on the very edge of the
canyon. Full marks for the sympathetic architecture, the
friendly service, the good food and a display of some of the
Cape’s best wines, and of course, Simon – a well educated
young man, originally from the Ondangwa region. He escorted us
to an exceptional viewpoint to enjoy a glass of Trilogy, listen
to his humorous tales of his Namibia and waiting for the sun to
dim over another day in Africa: painting colours of bright
orange and red and slowly transferring into hues of pink and
purple. But, what else would you expect to experience when the
Rockefellers are the landlords!
www.fishriverlodge-namibia.co
Whether your
many memories are written in the ancient rock-paintings,
sculptured by skeleton bones as a work of modern art on
the desolate sands, or feel the quiet beauty of this
country from a hot-air balloon over the endless dunes of
Sossusvlei, or spot a dinosaur-like gecko or scorpion
among the rocky habitat, or sense the total freedom of
the wild desert horses – all life-changing experiences. But it
is the catching warmth of the people of this land that will keep
on painting the memorable pictures in days to come … |

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- Johann Beukes |
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