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When you open your eyes just a little wider and listen just a bit more intensely, it's possible to discover a whole new side of the world. And perhaps there's no more perfect place to do this than a country neighbouring South Africa: a place that sometimes feels like ten countries rolled into one.
  


  

  


  

  


  

So, open your eyes a little wider when planning to head west, and take time to discover the charming ruggedness from the two chairs on the stoep.

 
Looking up, you can only see the crystal clear, transparent deep blue sky; looking down, you sense the total quietness of the vast desert dunes, lurking in the early morning sun like a series of huge dinosaurs’ spines; looking over the endless, almost eerie mirage landscape, the only movement that cannot escape your binocular sight      is the twitching horns of a distant Oryx

   
   

Namibia represents an uneasy compromise between exploring man and threatened nature; each to carve out their territory of choice. Jagged and, in places, treacherous natural borders were created by centuries of flooding waters of the rare flowing rivers, persistent erosion by a mighty ocean and forceful winds – all of which crafted and painted this unique landscape, still present today. Although this seemingly barren land can be a welcome ally, it can also become an even greater enemy – yet Namibia will always win.

The many faces of Namibia represent a world of ever-changing colours, a myriad of different panoramas, and an inspiring, young democracy of warm and friendly people, proud to showcase their native land to any potential visitor.

This country is a rough diamond on the south-west coast of Africa, waiting to be cut and polished by any eager traveller, even so more the keen photographers, for whom the ever-changing landscape creates a colourful pallet for their skills.

   


   

So often it is said that you can only experience the beauty of Namibia on a professionally-organised safari, or as a 4-by-4 fanatic, but we have recently proven the opposite. From Johannesburg, we flew into Windhoek in less than 2 hours, travelled almost 4000 kilometers through Namibia with a normal 2-wheel drive vehicle, without any hassles of even a flat tyre, and experienced first hand most of the beauty of the country.

   

Obviously, one cannot drive on all the minor, nerve-racking 35 000 kilometre routes, only accessible by a specialised, four-wheel drive, high bed vehicle, like the Caprivi and Kaokoland regions of the north, or some remote roads within the Naukluft and Sperrgebiet areas.

   

However, with some careful planning and pre-knowledge of the environment, you can experience many a special corner, and some of the world’s great natural wonders: from the geological escarpment fantasy of the Fish River Canyon, right in the south of the country, to the miracle of a multitude of the ever-changing meandering sand dunes of Sossusvlei, www.sossusvleilodge.com to the archeological rarities of Twyfelfontein’s rock engravings, the Burnt Mountain and Petrified Forest, and concluding at the many waterholes of the Etosha Wildlife Park, near the northern border. www.etoshanationalpark.co.za   

But the real asset of this exciting country is its people. Descended from South Africa, where the racism-flame can still burning between both white and black, and controversial and unnecessary statements are still frequently made by insensitive people for political gain only, we were embraced by the openness and warmth of most of the peoples of Namibia. Understanding the essence of tourism, the local people control and prevent possible crime on grass route level themselves, ensuring an almost absence of incidents that might possibly deter potential tourists.


   

With a Robinson Bird Guide and a book on the fauna and flora of Namibia in his hand, Esso, a young local, who grew up near the Spitskoppen, escorts us on a sightseeing drive on the farm Hohenstein, near Usakos, where we lodged the first night. With a proud sense of authority he tells many stories of the family birds building their communial nests and medicinal plants, as if nature is his back garden.
www.hohensteinlodge.de

   

As a young student, I visited Swakopmund and the Namib Desert many years ago – even had a nerve-racking experience, taunting the dangers of the dunes with an open jeep. This time Monique and I were on a day-excursion past the salt refining works as habitat for the multitude of waterbirds, and further into the wild of the desert, all the way south of Walvis Bay to Sandwich Harbour, with Bruno, the experienced nature lover.

   

Leaving Walvis Bay with a day-license, we soon reached the spot where the high dunes reach right into the cold waters of the west coast, having to linger until complete low tide. This is an opportune time to enjoy a nice cold Sauvignon Blanc on the dunes high above the stormy ocean, as well as the cold salad platter, paté and freshly baked German bread, all laid out on a table under umbrella. Not only his knowledge of the desert and its fauna and flora, but also his charisma as an excellent ambassador of his country, contribute to the success of Bruno’s personalised tourist business over the past 15 years.  www.turnstone-tours.com

The almost 100 kilometer drive over quite some challenging terrain to eventually reach the north-western escarpment of the Fish River Canyon, was all worth the trouble. An eco-friendly gem, Fish River Lodge has been developed on the very edge of the canyon. Full marks for the sympathetic architecture, the friendly service, the good food and a display of some of the Cape’s best wines, and of course, Simon – a well educated young man, originally from the Ondangwa region. He escorted us to an exceptional viewpoint to enjoy a glass of Trilogy, listen to his humorous tales of his Namibia and waiting for the sun to dim over another day in Africa: painting colours of bright orange and red and slowly transferring into hues of pink and purple. But, what else would you expect to experience when the Rockefellers are the landlords!  www.fishriverlodge-namibia.co

Whether your many memories are written in the ancient rock-paintings, sculptured by skeleton bones as a work of modern art on the desolate sands, or feel the quiet beauty of this country from a hot-air balloon over the endless dunes of Sossusvlei, or spot a dinosaur-like gecko or scorpion among the rocky habitat, or sense the total freedom of the wild desert horses – all life-changing experiences. But it is the catching warmth of the people of this land that will keep on painting the memorable pictures in days to come …



 


 

 

 

- Johann Beukes