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Recognized as the Garden of France - an “enchanted land of
vineyards, flowers and rolling green hills dotted with more than a
thousand chateaux” (as the Western France Tourist Board describes
it), the Loire Valley was formed by the nearly 1 000 km long Loire
River flowing north from its source in the Massif Central, bending
south-westwards at the vineyards of Sancerre, to where it empties
into the Atlantic at Nantes.
There are four distinct wine producing segments along the valley,
from Sancerre to Nantes (Kyk WotW, bl.152), where some 12 000
family-run estates cultivate about 50 000 ha Appelation d’Origine
Contrôlée vines (The highest quality wines according to the French
AOC system), making it the third largest producer in France,
following Bordeaux and the Rhône Valley. The region wherein Sancerre
is situated is regarded as the best for Savignon blanc in France,
whilst the Chenin Blanc (known locally as Pineau de la Loire) is
described as “one of the greatest expressions of Chenin Blanc in the
world” by the publication Wines of the World. |
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The history of the region is fundamental to France as the modern
French nation as a whole was in a certain sense born here. This is
the region where Emperor Charlemagne came to rule, where in 1429
Joan of Arc led a revitalised army and drove the English from the
besieged Orléans, marking the beginning of the English retreat and
the end of the Hundred Years War, where the Renaissance in France
began under the reign of Francois 1, where powerful monarchs and
politicians built their splendid chateaux, where the religious wars
between the Catholics and the Huguenots claimed thousands of lives,
and the region where widespread devastation took place during the
Second World War.
The valley of the Loire from Chambord to Angers and its surroundings
is known as the “Royal Route of Chateaux”. Having witnessed some of
the most romantic and turbulent moments in French history, they
today stand serene, elegant, formidable and grandiose. Amongst the
many the following might be representative of those erected during
the 15th to the 18th centuries when the region was much loved by
many of the French kings and other royalty and financiers, who
competed with one another to build even more elaborate and luxurious
architectural masterpieces. |
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Chateaux Chambord:
This estate, now designated as a world heritage site, was initiated
by King Francis in 1519. It is alleged that Leonardo da Vinci, who
had come to France in 1516, has helped to inspire the project.
However, Francis never saw Chambord completed. His son, Henry II,
and Louis XIV, were responsible for completing one of the most
stunning buildings in the entire valley. |
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Situated some 50 plus km south-west of Orleans near
Blois, Chambord was initially intended as a hunting lodge, but its
architecture makes it an extravagant château. It has 426 rooms, 77
staircases, 282 fireplaces and 365 chimneys. Despite these vast
dimensions, the château appears delightfully graceful and well
balanced, incorporating a surprising synthesis of styles from the
Gothic past and innovative architecture from Renaissance Italy. No
visitor driving towards the châteax can escape being spell-bound at
the vision as it suddenly emerges on rounding a bend in the
surrounding forest: the huge white facade flanked by wide towers,
innumerable windows, and topped by a multiplicity of chimneys and
turrets. Walking along its terrace enables the admiring visitor a
close-up view of the architectural derilium of the roof.
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One of the most interesting structures inside is the double
spiral staircase in the central keep, that links the château’s
three floors. It comprises two concentric spiral flights of
stairs that wind independently around a hollow central column,
so that two people on different flights can see each other
through the openings in the central column, but will never meet.
Chambord undoubtedly bears proud testimony to three centuries of
French Royal history. |
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The Chateaux
Cheverney (built between 1624 and 1640), also near Blois,
and not far away from Chambord, is one of the best known
chateaux in the region, and opened to the public in 1922. The
descendants of the original owners, the Marquis and Marquise de
Vibraye, at present still live in the right wing. But the first
owners also never saw this “miracle of love” (as they called it)
fully completed. The interior decoration was only completed by
the next generation.
There are a number of very unique and special rooms, like the
bedchamber which was reserved for the King and distinguished
guests. The canopied four poster bed is covered with Persian
embroidery done in the 16th century. All around the room is a
unique collection of tapestries made in 1640; 30 painted panels
above the doors and on the ceiling depicts ancient Greek
mythological scenes.
Other captivating rooms are the colourfully decorated Grand
Salon with its chairs of gilded upholstery, the Portrait Room
with a series of family portraits, and the Arms Room with a
remarkable collection of weapons and armour from previous
centuries.
The royal Chateau Blois was a favourite residence of the
kings of France during the Renaissance. The furnished and
recently renovated apartments are adorned with magnificent
decorations. Four wings, with four styles from four different
periods surround the courtyard, offering a dazzling panorama of
French archirecture. |
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This chateau is now an official museum of France with more than
35 000 works of art. Part of the collections is on display in
the royal apartments and in the Fine Arts Museum in the Louis
XII wing. Different activities intrigue the visitor through the
year, such as the show of swordfighters and Renaissance music
during the summer months. Then the courtyard comes to life with
duellists clashing in a revival of famous combats linked to the
chateau’s history. In the evenings a sound and light show
creates a magical world of colour and light evoking famous
historical episodes.
Amboise, on the
banks of the Loire, a short way from Tours, is also a royal
chateaux, where the kings enjoyed staying. About 200 meters away
lies Le Clos Lucé, where Leonardo spent the last days of
his life. Models of 40 of the most spectacular machines dreamed
up by this Renaissance man can be seen here. The Chateau
Villandry also lies next to the river. Its extensive gardens
laid out over three terraces on different levels forming a
unique example of French landscaping in the 16th century, encase
it like a jewel.
In the region in and around the Loire Valley the traveller will
come across some of the finest Gothic cathedrals to be found
not only in France, but also in Europe, like the one in
Chartres, with its magnificent stained glass windows, and
the famous 13th century labyrinth inlaid in the nave floor. The
St-Etienne Cathedral in Bourges, most similar to
the Notre-Dame in Paris, is the widest in the country.
Looking for the essence of France, the Loire Valley running
through the heart of French life, should be high up on the list
of any traveller to this beautiful country. No wonder that it is
classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
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Manie |
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