A typical one is the historically unique ancient oasis of Jericho in what is now known as the West Bank. The sweet water of the spring created the perfect centre around which one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world developed. Agricultural activities flourished, so that wheat and water transformed the land into one “overflowing with milk and honey”. Soon the city became the envy of peoples elsewhere, and it had to be fortified with walls and towers. 

Archaeological excavations reveal that the site was already inhabited around 11 000 years ago (9 000 BC), and that the walls were built about 2 000 years later. The ancient centre of the city is situated on a mound, which was surrounded by a vast earthen rampart with a stone retaining wall of about five meters high. On top of the retaining wall another wall was built, about two meters thick and six to eight meters high, and on the crest of the embankment another mud brick wall about 14 meters above ground level outside the retaining wall. This is what the Israelites had to conquer, according to Joshua.

What is really fascinating is that recent archaeological discoveries reveal ample evidence that the mud brick city wall really collapsed and was deposited at the base of the stone retaining wall. (For those interested, see The walls of Jericho. Archaeology confirms: they really DID come a-tumblin’ down www.answeringenesis.org).

In the millennia that followed fortifications were built around cities all over the world. This continued until the late 17^th century, but thereafter the art of warfare developed in such a way that walls no longer could keep the enemy out. During the 18^th and the 19^th centuries many of them were removed, because they blocked access to the expanding suburbs.

In many towns and cities you will today find that the ring-roads encircling the town centre, were built where the walls were taken down. But most of the cities still have retained at least a fragment of the original – sometimes a gateway, a tower or a section of the wall, such as in Bath and Chester in England and Wales, St Remy in  France, Coimbra in Portugal, Lier or Mechelen in Belgium …
 

But quite a number of cities still have most of their city walls (almost) complete. Out of them UNESCO has proclaimed 53 of them all over the world as World Heritage Sites. Just to name a few of them: Assisi and San Gimignano (Italy),  Avignon and Carcassonne (France), the Old City of Jerusalem, Tallinn (Estonia), Rhodes (Greece), etc.

It speaks for itself that it is not possible to have first-hand experience of all of these towns and cities. Therefore I have decided to shortly concentrate on just four of them, which have impressed me. Two of them are well-known (One is also a UNESCO heritage site); the other two are small towns, but in their own really worth a visit. 

Fountain Square San Gimignano Tuscany Italy

Toledo (Spain)

About 70 km. south of Madrid lies Toledo, a city of about 80 000 inhabitants, capital of the province of Toledo. UNESCO declared it a World Heritage site in 1986 due to its cultural heritage and architectural importance.

After Spain was conquered by the Visigoths, Toledo became the capital of Spain in 513. In the 7^th century it was also the seat of the Church of Spain. Over the centuries Arabs, Jews and Christians lived here side by side, so that the city became a site where remarkable artistic development took place, such as Hispano-Moorish art of great richness. One of the famous artists who lived here, was the painter, El Greco.

Different styles of architecture are to be seen everywhere. In its motivation for declaring the city a World Heritage site, The Organization of World Heritage Sites states: “The city of Toledo in its entirety represents a unique artistic achievement and an uninterrupted succession of remarkable achievements, from Visigothic churches to the Baroque ensembles of the 18^th century” (http://www.ovpm.org/en/spain/toledo).

When nearing Toledo by car, you can see the old city high up on a hill-top from afar, with majestic buildings towering above, such as the Gothic Cathedral (Built from1226 – 1493), considered to be one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in Europe, as well as the Alcazar (Arabicized Latin for palace-castle).

Toledo is surrounded on three sides (east, south and west) by a bend of the Tagus River, whilst massive walls prohibit entry at places where the city could otherwise be easily reached. After you’ve parked your car in the parking lot down below, you have to walk up a steep slope to enter the city through impressive gates in its massive surrounding walls, such as the Puerto del Sol (Gate of the Sun) or the Puerto Bisagra. 
 

For those who do not want to tackle the incline, an escalator can be taken to the centre of the old town. The streets in the historic centre are very narrow, and not recommended to travel through by car! In this labyrinth you will find a plethora of little churches, mosques and synagogues.

Besides the impressive sights, Toledo is famous for its handcrafts, such as the fine swords known throughout the world, its ceramic-ware and embroidery, but also for its gastronomy consisting of fresh products from the region, like game, cheese, the home-grown wines and the marzipan from Arabic origin. I would recommend an overnight stay in Toledo, if one really wants to experience the magic of this special walled city.

 
Chester (England)

Chester is a city on the western border of England, close to Wales, an appropriate place to stay over, should you be on your way to Ireland, to board the ferry at Holyhead the next morning. According to the latest census it is home to about 77 000 inhabitants.
 

Chester is often referred to as the best preserved medieval city in England, although many buildings date from the Victorian era. It claims to have the most complete city walls in the United Kingdom, forming an almost complete circuit of about 3 km long. The only breaks in the walls are for entrances to car parks or for approach roads to the inner city. According to the grading system for walls they are listed as Grade I, and are also registered as a Scheduled Ancient Monument.

Chester was founded by the Romans around 70 AD as a fortress. Walls consisting of wood and earth palisades were erected, but replaced by stone walls between the 1^st and 3^rd century. These were extended later on towards the River Dee, flowing close by, also enclosing the Chester Castle, built around 1070.

Different sieges of the city resulted in extensive damage to the ramparts, but this was repaired and renovated. Today the walls are a popular walking circuit, from where you have a fine view over the city, the river and the surrounding countryside. A famous sight is the Eastgate Clock, added in 1899, commemorating the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria.

The most interesting sights of the medieval part of the city are the Rows and the so-called black-and-white architecture. The Rows are buildings consisting of dwellings and shops on two storeys. Those on the ground floor are often below street level, so that you have to enter them by way of steps. Those on the second floor are entered from a continuous walkway, with railings overlooking the street. The many black-and-white buildings were erected in Victorian times.

Other prominent sights within the city centre are the cathedral in Gothic style, the Chester Castle, and the town hall. The Grosvenor Museum includes Roman tombstones and an art gallery. Tourists will find information at the town hall, as well as at the Chester Visitor Centre.

 
Murten (Switzerland)

Murten (The German form of the French Morat) is a small town situated between Bern and Neuchâtel, and is the capital of the Lake District of the canton of Fribourg. I first visited it in 1996, and since then I’ve carried such fond memories of this medieval gem, that I’ve deliberately made a detour a year or two ago, when my wife and I drove from Schaffhausen in the north of Switzerland down to Lausanne, in order to show her its picturesque charm.
 

Murten lies on a gentle hill on the south-eastern shore of the small Lake Morat, and due to its olde-world charm has become a popular tourist destination. Apart from the shoreline, it is still entirely surrounded by its well preserved medieval ring wall, covered by a wooden structure carrying a roof. You can walk all the way around the town, gazing down on the rooftops of the many surviving buildings from the 15^th – 18^th centuries, the narrow alleyways between them, or look out over the lake at sunset out to Mont Vully, the Jura and the Alps.

Inside the Old Town, you can sit in the pleasant shaded arcades in front of the shops and restaurants, or on the lovely lakeside promenade sipping on a glass of wine from the nearby vineyards of the Vully. A vast range of water sports, cultural activities and other excursions are on offer.

Historically the town is renowned for the battle fought there in 1476 in which the Swiss defeated Charles the Bold of Burgundy. Since then Murten annually celebrates the victory on June 22. We were lucky to be in the town on the previous day, when preparations were underway for the festival. Colourful flags were hung from the buildings, whilst special decorations could be seen in shops and restaurants. Unfortunately we had to depart that afternoon, missing the festivities in this, for us, special town. 

On a hill, just about 100 km. north of Lisbon, lies the meticulously preserved medieval town of Óbidos (The name stems from the Latin for citadel). It is undoubtedly one of Portugal’s most picturesque settlements, completely surrounded by a fortified wall. Although all of Óbidos is declared a national monument, it is a living town with about 3 100 inhabitants. 
 

  
The town is known as the “Wedding Present Town”, because King Dinis in the 13^th century was so impressed by its beauty, that he gave Óbidos to Queen Isabel de Aragon as a wedding present. Since that time more than one sovereign offered it to their brides. The thick stone walls encircling the town are at least 13 m high.

Walking along on top of the wall, one looks down on the terracotta roofs of the medieval homesteads, the narrow cobblestone streets and white-washed walls of the houses, adorned with brightly coloured bougainvilleas and geraniums.  On the outside of the wall you see the vineyards and windmills dotting the countryside, as well as the impressive Amoreira Aqueduct, dating from 1575.

At the main entrance to the town, as an integral part of the wall, a massive 12^th century castle towers above. It has been converted into an elegant posada (hotel), housing guests in luxurious rooms. From the gate, the main street (Rue Direita) leads you to the main square Praca de Santa Maria), with a beautiful fountain, and the Santa Maria Church, famous for the marriage between the 10-year-old Afonso V and his 8-year-old cousin!

It is quite an experience to stay over in the Posada. When stepping outside at night the sight of the floodlighted walls and the soft light streaming out of the small windows, creates a romantic medieval atmosphere.

- Manie Wolvaardt