Often, when you visit a city with a typical Old Town region, you will wander along the cobblestone streets and wonder whether it’s real or only a dream. When browsing through the historical walled part of this Baltic capital, you immediately realised that this is really different. This is not Disney World, this is for real!

But, on the other hand, it is experiencing these special moments from childhood that eventually take you on a Peter Pan journey through the maze of narrow curved alleys of a very special place – Tallinn. 
 

        
Tallinn, the third in our trilogy, is the capital of the smallest Baltic State, Estonia and facing the northern coastline of the Baltic Sea. Some one hour’s flight, across this stretch of Sea, is Finland’s Capital, Helsinki. Though so near, their cultures are miles apart.

It is only once you have discovered that Saint Petersburg is so near, that you can appreciate the resemblance to the old Russia, playing such a huge influence on this fairy tale town. No wonder that Peter the Great visited Tallinn no less than on nine occasions. Thus it became the important ice-free harbour of Russia.
 

The Old Town or Toompea area is so compact within the old city walls, that it is quite possible to see most of the interesting tourist traps within one day. But it is only when you are looking for the precious gems within these narrow pedestrian streets, that you start to realise this truth in travel – always leave the normal tourist areas behind and wander off to the less busy streets.

Tallinn’s climate is not one of extremes, and most of the year the weather is amenable. If you do not like the cold, you should avoid February. Despite the fact that the period between April and October have ideal temperatures, the days are still quite short with early darkening afternoons. And yet, it is this play of special shades and contrasts that paints the old buildings in soft pastel colours in the late afternoon sunlight.

Our choice for accommodation was the Schlössle, a romantic medieval residence, converted into a small boutique hotel some ten years ago. This lovingly restored hotel features details from the original 17th century building. Once we had overcome the hurdle of pulling our suitcases over the ruff cobbles, we were met with warm Estonian friendliness by Karina.

Our quiet room was facing the beautiful courtyard filled with anthiriums and brightly coloured begonias. As part of the restored old night watchtower, no wall or window is square or straight. The renowned Stenhus Restaurant, serving true Estonian food, is situated in the old cellar, below the hotel’s entrance foyer. Here you can enjoy the fireplace in the antique-laden waiting area.
 

When visiting some of the newer destinations on the traveller’s itinerary, you soon realise that established travel books are limited. The popular Eyewitness Series brought out their edition of the three Baltic States at the beginning of the year. Another reliable publication is the Bradt series on these Trilogy of Baltic countries and their capitals. We can also recommend the small pocketsizeTallinn in your Pocket. You can down load pdf-files of about 60 less travelled cities from the internet on www.inyourpocket.com. And the information is updated at least every second month, thus providing correct contact numbers and information.

The narrow, twisted and sometimes quite inclined pedestrian streets allow for minimal vehicle traffic. The Pikk Jalg is a challenge to even the most athletic traveller. No wonder they have provided benches to the side every twenty metres! At the top end of this steep street lies Toompea Hill.

One of the secluded hideaways is the picturesque spot, Patkuli platform, with great panoramic views over the picturesque old town below: thousands of sloping red tiled roofs, church towers, steep turrets and stepping gables – all to become the playground of fairies and dwarfs, at nightfall.

Only when you focus on detail, you will see the artistic design of a flying cock on the steeple of a church far below – yet, almost on your eye level.

On the way down along the steep steps of Lühike Jalg, you will not fail to pass any of the art studios exhibiting Estonian artists latest contemporary designs. The Helina Tilk is an inviting colourful gallery that sells pure eye candy. In addition to exquisite jewellery, you will find the most original glassware, resembling Costa Boda from Sweden, as well as beautiful paper-thin textiles, used as vertical room dividers. The surreal landscapes of the well-known Estonian painter, Navitrolla, can be enjoyed in his gallery; and if the price-tag is a shocker, you can always buy one of his graphic designs, found on display of his original T-shirts.

The Town Hall Square is the meeting place of all inhabitants of the city. Hundreds of temporary stalls paint a mosaic of colours with their bright umbrellas; selling junk to jokes, souvenirs to sweets. And everybody, even the local pigeons, enjoy the vibrancy of the moment – because this is life!

Even more interesting is to watch the diversity of the people: a young student with friends after graduation, a mother with twins in a pram, Japanese cruise tourists posing for pictures – and a self-trained musician, earning his daily income.

But after such a busy morning, everybody would enjoys some tasty local food: close to the square and easily spotted by the sack of pepper dangling over the entrance, the Peppersack serves hearty portions of traditional Estonian food and locally home brewed beer. In another side street, you cannot miss the no frills wooden benches next to brightly coloured flower boxes and orange entrance door: Eesti Restoran. A glass of housewine is followed by good food; and to end it off: some wise quotes onto the walls leading to the toilets.

A fascinating medieval alleyway with uneven stone walls and overhead vaulting, Katarina Käik joins two main streets. A string of arts and crafts workshops line the passage, where it is possible to watch resident artisans working with jewellery, ceramics and glass or binding books. It runs along the surviving wall of St Catherine’s Church, and several gravestones still line this interesting narrow passageway.

Also located in this narrow lane is the famous authentic Italian restaurant, Controvento. It would be hard to find a more romantic spot for dinner and to end off your visit to Tallinn. But be warned, however, you can easily walk past this celebrated establishment.

Over a glass of locally made liqueur, Vana Tallinn, we revisited our three special days in Tallinn: of specific childhood experiences that we remember and the wonderful memories of a DisneyWorld type of town that we will take along with us.

- Johann and Monique