Latest Newsletter

Once, when my wife and I were on tour through Europe, I asked a seasoned traveller in The Hague (Netherlands) which city she would regard as to be the most beautiful in Europe. After contemplating a while, she answered: “There are many which I could have named, such as Paris. But Paris is too big, too stretched out. However, there is one city that grasps you immediately, a city whose splendor is to be seen all at once, and of which you can exclaim ‘This is Prague!’ ” 

This remark increased our anticipation, as we had included Prague in our itinerary.  After departing from The Hague, we drove through Germany and then via Dresden to Prague. A friend awaited us at a previously indicated spot, from where we followed him into the Old Town (Staré Město) and up a hill to the apartment where he arranged accommodation for us.

Once regarded as the “heart of Europe”, Prague is situated in the northwest region of the Czech Republic, known as Bohemia. This “city of 100 spires” embodies a rich history of European architecture. 

The city is divided in two by the wide, bending Moldau (Vlatva) River, on which the Czech composer, Bedrich Smetena, based the well-known Moldau part of his famous six-part symphonic poem, My Fatherland. This tone painting evokes the sounds of the great river winding its way through the beautiful Bohemian landscape and the city. In this piece you find the same type of pride and honour to a country and its landscape as in that other great symphonic poem, Jean Sibelius‘s Finlandia. No wonder that the main theme of Smetena’s majestic composition is played by the Czech Airlines, once landed.

The city’s historic core can be found in four quarters, two on both sides of the curving river: on the east side the Old Town (Staré Město) and the New Town (Nové Město), laid out in the 14^th century, and on the west side, laid out on a steep hill, the Castle District (Hradčany) and the Lesser Town (Malá Strana). Although there are 16 bridges spanning the river, the famous 516 m long Charles Bridge, built in 1357, with its saintly statues on both sides, and impressive bridge towers, connects the quarters directly. The bridge itself is a masterpiece, attracting visitors. Traversing it, you will find artists and musicians busy painting the stunning views or playing lyrical songs.  

Prague has a comprehensive public transport system (an immaculate underground Metro, and reliable trams and buses), but the whole of the historic core is small enough to be explored on foot. It is even possible to undertake a quick exploratory walk through almost all four quarters in one day.

Depending on where you are accommodated, one can perhaps start from the Wenceslas Square on the boundary of the Old and the New City, then walk towards the Old Town Square, and from there down to the river in order to cross over to the western quarters by way of the Charles  Bridge. You can then take a bus back to where you want to be.

After such an initial tour, it is advisable to set aside at least a day per quarter, should you wish to experience something of the real magic of this historical city. There are so many sights and sounds to experience that it is only possible to mention just a few.

The New Town: The Wenceslas Square is actually more of a broad boulevard, and the centre of modern Prague. On the eastern side it is dominated by the 100 m façade of the neo-Renaissance style building of the National Museum (where one evening, we attended a stunning music performance by a pianist and violinist). The imposing Wenceslas Monument, with a mighty equestrian statue in the middle commemorating the Duke of Bohemia, surrounded by four other patron saints, stands in front of the museum.

The square is a vibrant place, lined with large hotels, clubs, offices, cinemas and intimate theatres. The shopping precincts, locally called “passages” are worth a visit. Quite a number of jewellery shops, with masses of golden jewels on display in the windows attract the attention. Bars, cafés and restaurants abound. Should you want to experience refined Czech dishes, the Secession Restaurant of the Europa Hotel can be recommended. It is interesting to note that the dining room of the doomed liner, the Titanic, was modeled on  this restaurant with its crystal chandeliers, wood inlay, carved mirrors and painted glass.

The Old Town:

A narrow alley Na Mustku, at the west end of Wenceslas Square leads into the Old Town, with its traffic free Town Square as the heart of Prague, and regarded by some as one of Europe’s most beautiful. Through the ages it has been the site of many demonstrations, protests, and the place where executions took place. It also served as the city’s market place.

In one corner of the Square is the Jan Hus memorial, an extraordinary sculpture honoring the Czech reformer and religious hero who died at the stake five centuries ago.  The Square is enclosed by buildings from different ages standing harmoniously side by side – Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo.

The Old Town Hall, with its Late Gothic portal, was built between the 14^th and 15th centuries. Next to it stands the famous Astronomical Clock, showing the medieval view of the earth as the centre of the universe, with the course of the sun and moon on its face. Every hour two windows in the clock face open to reveal a procession of the twelve apostles. At the end of the show, a figure depicting Death, turns the hour glass over. 

The 14 th century Týn Church’s 80 m. high twin towers and 18 spires dominate the square and are visible from all over the city. On the north side of the square stands the Church of St. Nicolas, with its glorious baroque façade.

Some of the streets leading out of the square are equally important, such as Celetna Street, one of the oldest in the city, with houses dating from the Middle Ages. The façade of the Hrzánský Palace, found here, features busts, stuccoes and gargoyles.

The Castle District and the Lesser Town:

After crossing Charles Bridge a steep walk up the hill brings you to the entrance of the Prague Castle complex. This stronghold of the Czech rulers, surrounded by thick ramparts, towers above the city for more than a thousand year.

You enter through a first courtyard, from where a flight of steps leads up to a section of the buildings containing the Throne Room and the private apartments of the President of the Republic.  A gate leads you into a second courtyard, with a lovely fountain and the Chapel of the Holy Rood, where the church treasury is kept. In the north wing a portal brings you to the Royal Gardens, adjacent to the impressive St. Vitus Cathedral (begun in 1344). This church with its breathtaking interior, (124 m long and 60 m wide), is the largest church in Prague.

Other impressive sights within the castle complex are the St George’s Convent, which houses excellent art works, the Lobkowicz Palace, where a historical collection of the National Museum is to be seen, and the Golden Lane, with its picturesque 16^th century artisans’ cottages.

Walking down from the castle many sights are to be seen – palaces, monasteries, churches and monuments, such as the Renaissance style Belvedere Palace with its curving copper roof, built between 1538 – 64 by Ferdinand I for his wife Anna, not far from the Castle complex.

The Lesser Quarter Square, which originally was the marketplace of Kampa, dates from the 13^th century. Around the square you will find a number of palaces, which were created by demolishing adjacent houses and building the palaces in the spaces thus created.

Worth a visit is the Liechtenstein Palace with its classical façade, taking up the entire west end of the square, as well as the Baroque Kaiserstein Palace with its gable statues.

The Baroque Church of St. Nicholas (1703 – 1761) dominates the square. Apart from the vast fresco painted on the ceiling of the nave, the fabulous organ on which Mozart gave a performance in 1787 is its prize possession.

Other highlights

There are numerous other interesting sights to be seen and experience in and around Prague, such as the Jewish Quarter, with its moving cemetery. But undoubtedly one of the highlights of a visit to this city is its musical performances. It has three symphony orchestras and several chamber orchestras. More than 3 million visitors attend performances in its 30 theatres per year!

Mozart favored this city where he stayed for a number of years. Here he composed some of his well-known operas such as the Marriage of Figaro and Don Giovanni, which had their premieres here. My wife and I were lucky to attend a performance of his Requiem in the Dvorak Hall in the Rudolfinium.  

But other famous composers, such as Ludwig von Beethoven, Franz List, Carl Maria von Weber, and Antonin Dvořák, just to name a few, visited Prague, stayed there for some time or even directed orchestras. Today you are constantly reminded of this legacy by persons dressed in costumes selling tickets to performances.

Therefore, a visit to Prague is not also a feast to the eye, but also to the ear; you leave with fond remembrances of a city that more than satisfies one’s expectations – a city with dimensions beyond the ordinary.

     – Manie Wolvaardt