A few years ago one would have to take up a world atlas to find out where this relatively unknown country finds itself among the other old USSR regions. However, although this newly discovered country has not even come of age yet, it was proclaimed as European Capital of Culture 2009, some 20 years after gaining Independence. Lithuanians take immense pride in their rich cultural life, as illustrated by the countless art galleries in almost every town and city.

Lithuania is the most ethnically homogeneous of the three Baltic Countries. Of its population of 3.5 million, some 85% are Lithuanian, speaking their own language. And despite its pagan past, Lithuania has a strong Catholic identity that sets it well apart from Estonia and Latvia. Not even the vast efforts of the Soviet authorities to stamp out religious worship by converting churches into warehouses, cinemas and museums, deporting large numbers of priests to Siberia, could succeed to demoralise the strong independent spirit of the Lithuanian people.

Only a few cities leave a lasting impression on you: one that you feel you would like to experience again and again; to return to and sense the very special atmosphere, to re-live the magical moments within its open spaces and to breathe the uniqueness of its people.

For me personally it is Barcelona and Prague – and now, after our most recent visit, Vilnius, capital of the new-borne Lithuania. So often, when asked what it is that leaves you wondering, you have to admit: maybe it was the right time and mood, or maybe just the interesting individual mosaics you have found framed to perfection.

What we have found in Vilnius was a rich cultural history, beautiful restored architecture, many pages from their book of human poetry, and a vibrant new generation since the days of Russian oppression: The way they interact with you as a stranger, the deep discussions over a glass of wine after work and intense listening to the book-reading of struggle poetry at a local wine bar, or Lithuanian soul music as performed by a blind musician at the Rotušês Square.

The Lithuanian flag consists of three horizontal colours: the yellow represents the sun, the green the forests and the red is the blood spilt over the centuries for an independent nation.
 

In Lithuania it is hard to tell exactly when summer arrives; the ominous steel-grey sky of winter, like one in a painting by Veronese, transforms overnight in a new-found mosaic of colour and beauty. Summers are relatively short, and although you may well experience some warmer and dry days during the two to three months, showers and chilly nights are equally likely.

Similar to Finland, Lithuania has an unblemished natural landscape of rolling hills, with thousands of lakes that create a complex network of streams and rivers, especially in the north-eastern Aukštaitija National Park. To the west, the Curonian Spit stretches southwards towards Kaliningrad, forming a natural lagoon between dunes and the Baltic Sea.
 

Some 200 kilometres north of the capital, Vilnius, we took the detour route A12 to visit the famous pilgrimage site Kryžiû Kalnas (Hill of Crosses), just north of the town Šiauliai. This remains one of Lithuania’s most awe-inspiring sights: a saddle-shaped knoll in a field filled with thousands of crosses, crucifixes and rosaries is a real insight into the faith of the Lithuanian people.

From a distance, it looks like a maize of sticks and poles; we waited for the sudden heavy downpour to clear, before we walked towards the hill of crosses. It was only when we started reading the numerous messages that we could really sense the emotions involved in the history of this religious landmark. Every cross tells its own heartbreaking story: a story of people’s suffering, their strong resistance towards oppression, and yet, when you leave the site without saying a word, you feel quiet and content.

 
Despite all efforts since the Russian Tsarist period to destroy this beacon of faith, it today still remains as a victory over the oppressor: the hill was burnt down to the ground in 1961; again it was bulldozed in 1973 and 1975, but after each demolition, the crosses re-appeared again and again and each time more and more. Finally the hill was left in peace, and by the time Pope John Paul 2 visited in 1993, it had religious sculptures and symbols from all over the country and around the world; thus sending out a very strong symbolic message of partaking in the struggle of faith.

Dating back to the 14^th century, this island castle was destroyed during the Russian invasion in 16^th century, but rebuilding started in
the 1960’s with Kremlin money, and was completed by the end of the 80’s.

The most popular pieces are the Huge Chair by the American artist Dennis Oppenheim (created from steel, mess and wooden infill portions, and the Double Negative Pyramid by Sol LeVit; the latter is a reflection in concrete of ripples on a lake.

The capital, Vilnius, will seduce you in a way that few other cities can. It’s a city on human scale, with an uncanny ability to capture the visitor’s heart. It might not necessarily conform to your personal expectations or preferences; although you cannot put your finger on any particular main attraction, you will surely want to return again.

History is raw and recent, and Vilnius retains a sense of just this: For me as an architect, it lies both in its diverse architecture and in the true to life human stories of its residents.

The rather small airport some 8 kilometres outside the city centre, still bears the signs of Russia. Quite evident are the huge unused, almost wasted areas with little to offer to the traveller: but hopefully you will find the Heineken Bar up the massive escalator where all outbound passengers wait.

The UNESCO-protected historical Old Town is relatively small and compact, and its charm lies in the fact that it is a living quarter of every day life of its people – with its many churches the University which dates back almost six centuries, Town Hall and Square, with its beehive of activities, mainly during the annual Kaziuko Crafts Fair during March and the Bishops’ Quarters, which also hosted personalities like Napoleon and Tsar Alexander I, before becoming the Presidential Palace in 1997.

Exploring the Old Town is a rewarding experience, especially if you deviate off the beaten tourist track. Everything is centred around the uneven cobble-stone street, Pilies Gatvé: a long curved pedestrian artery with the usual souvenir shops selling both junk and local folk art, market stalls and numerous sidewalk cafés, where you can sit and watch the world pass by: neatly dressed young people, the musician student ensemble, performing to your absolute enjoyment, and yes, unfortunately also the heart-breaking scene of an old woman begging to survive yet another day.

Although this is not an April fool’s joke, you can even let your passport be stamped as memory of this haven for the alternative and arty residents of Vilnius. Around every corner a piece of sculpture is telling a funny story: the drunken man, leaning forward and clutching onto the empty bottle, or the jolly old man, offering the real wine glass to its guests at the René, a Belgium restaurant, named after the surrealist painter, René Magritte. If you’ve got artistic tendencies, you can use the colour crayons provided to draw on the paper-topped tables. It can be a lot of fun!

Almost as ridiculous as Dali’s Teatro in Figueres Spain, where huge eggs crown the top of the museum, a recently decorated large egg nestled on a bed of sticks found its domain in the Jewish district. Stencilled, hand sprayed or simply scrawled, the smattering of graffiti on the crumbling walls of Užupis adds a certain character to this interesting area.

 
Near Užupis, on the same side of the Neris River, you will reach through Kalnµ Park the iconic Hill of Three Crosses. Visible from most places in the Old Town, these three white crosses on top of a hill are laden with contradictory stories about their origin: legend has it that long ago seven Franciscan monks were crucified here. Stalin had these crosses removed and buried, and only in 1989 were they rebuilt according to the original symbols of Lithuanian mourning and hope.

Another focal point of the modern city is the tallest building in Lithuania, the TV Tower. At 325 metres, it is even a couple of metres taller than the Eiffel Tower! But the real importance is the part it played in the liberation struggle of the country. On 13 January 1991 this tower punctured history when it became the centre of an assault by Soviet tanks, and 13 Lithuanian citizens were killed while trying to defend this beacon with dear life. A similar statue as Milda in Riga, called Liberitae, was erected on site to commemorate their brave effort towards liberation and independence of their country.

One will not fully understand the total impact of the suffering of the Lithuanian people, and countless atrocities performed in the former KGB and Gestapo headquarters in Vilnius, if you do not visit the Museum of Genocide Victims or KGB Museum. This stoic but chilling museum does not attempt to glorify the past: descriptions on the walls simply state what each room was used for, and little imagination is necessary to understand the cruel impact on the lives of the victims, awaiting their delayed executions, normally until spring, when removal and burial of the numerous bodies became easier.

Not far away, and by total coincidence, we strolled through a beautiful little back courtyard where we were enlightened by a carpet tapestry of moss, fallen leaves and fairylike fungi; almost to prepare us for the little narrow pedestrian street, Literatu Gatvé: a space that has a story to tell to the world. As building blocks onto a wall, numerous decorative tiles of Lithuanian authors and musicians, unfolded each one’s contribution towards the liberation of their country.
 

On a more enlightened note, a visit to the Vilnius Concert Hall or National Drama Theatre will prove the fact why this city was named Capital of Culture. Three muses are guarding the entrance. Famous ballet performances, chamber music recitals as well as symphony concerts are regularly available for the performing arts lover.

After enjoying Prokofiev’s Romeo and Juliet ballet, we strolled back to the hotel, when we passed by an arched entrance to a typical courtyard between the old buildings. This down-to-earth but daring little wine bar, InVino, is the sort of place where you sit down for just one glass of wine, before returning to bed.
 

Little did we know what was to come! You could see this is the meeting place of local young professionals. Soon we become part of a very special event: two young, neatly dressed artistic women began reading poetry intermittently in both mother tongue and English. Despite our lack of understanding a single word of the Lithuanian verses, sensing the passionate and emotional atmosphere was rewarding enough for us!

Sometimes you experience something, without even planning it, knowing that this, in days to come, will become a memory of a moment in time and of a place very special – a déjàvu experience!

- Johann and Monique