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A TALE OF TWO CITIES:
Vancouver and Montréal |
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Visiting
Canada’s two contrasting cities is almost like trying to compare
London and Paris: a world apart in culture, ambience and
presence.
Cosily situated
on the southwestern corner of Canada’s province of British
Columbia, Vancouver lies just north of Seattle and
facing the Strait of Georgia before meeting the Pacific Ocean.
Montréal, in the French province of Quebec,
sits on the Lawrence River, inland some 400 kilometres from the
Atlantic Ocean, north of New York. |
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Vancouver
is as British as London can be, while walking in Port Vieux
of Montréal, feels almost as strolling along the cobbled
streets of St-Germain Paris. And both are true Canadian
cities.
VANCOUVER -
Garden City of the west!
Fringed by the
Pacific Ocean’s sandy beaches, looking out towards the
waters of the calm Straits of Johnstone and Georgia, with
a backdrop of the Coast Mountain range, this city
occupies one of the most wow! and serene settings of any city we
have visited.
The weather is
moderate, the landscape almost always green and flowers bloom
year-round. Only the backdrop mountain range is brushed with a
fresh coat of snow in winter. |
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Few cities can
match Canada’s gateway to the popular Inside Passage,
enroute to Alaska. Although the population is just more than half a
million, Vancouver is a superbly liveable place. Its busy
multicultural population lends the city a cosmopolitan air, and
together with outstanding museums and galleries, a vast range of
water orientated recreational activities, green parks and stunning
views, you will be hard pressed to know where to start.
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Arriving at
Vancouver International Airport, some 15 kilometres south of
downtown, you have the option to either take an Airporter Bus
as a regular shuttle service between airport and downtown bus
terminal and some hotels, or a taxi at double the cost,
depending on the number of passengers and your budget.
Vancouver’s compact downtown peninsula contains most of the
city’s sights, but none compares with the pleasure of
discovering its many neighbourhoods and incredible diverse
architecture.
In keeping with its status as the heart of one of the world’s
youngest vibrant cities, Downtown presents the visitor with a
fine example of postmodern aesthetics; a constantly evolving
hotchpotch of modern architecture, where sleek glass, chrome and
steel skyscrapers rub shoulders with detailed Gothic churches
and Victorian Mansions. |

Built for the Expo
86, Canada Place makes a statement introduction to
Vancouver: the five sails waterfront building is distinctive on the
new Vancouver skyline, as the Opera-house is synonymous to
Sydney. This cruise-ship terminal is the departure venue for
most of the Inside Passage cruises to Alaska. When sailing out of
the harbour, one cannot miss the beauty of the bright white sails
against the backdrop of the snow-covered mountains in a distance.
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Surrounded by
water on all sides, and largely undeveloped, Stanley Park
is a green oasis for the city’s people, especially over
week-ends. The state-of-the-art Aquarium is a superb facility
which draws the second most visitors in Canada; It
is estimated that about 8 million people visit this third
largest aquarium in North America every year.
Also found in the huge park are some sculptures by well-known
Canadian artists: sitting on a solitary rock, similar to the
Little Mermaid of Copenhagen, is the Girl in a Wetsuit,
looking out to the sea. |
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A nice way to
explore the city is by Skytrain and Hop-on Hop-off bus
line. It is always a good idea to get an overall idea of any city,
before starting to walk the streets.
The cobblestone
streets of Gastown have been through many revamping
phases. As you stroll along Water Street, take time to browse
through the many galleries and interesting shops in old revamped
warehouses, telling the stories of forgotten days. The old
Spaghetti Factory restaurant is housed in an original food
wholesalers’ warehouse that was renovated in 2002 to accommodate
both the cheerful restaurant and live-work studios upstairs.
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Vancouver is
also home and departure point to the popular Rocky
Mountaineer, linking the Canadian Rockies, as well as
the Whistler Mountaineer. This two-hour train
journey will take you through breathtaking scenic
beauty en route: waterfalls, snow-capped mountains, mirror-lakes
and secluded settlements.
Just when the world thought that Whistler,
consistently voted North America’s top ski and snowboard resort,
could not get any bigger and better, it was awarded the
2010 Olympic Winter Games, sharing the honour with
Vancouver. It is a nice day’s excursion from Vancouver by train
and return by water floatplane, affording you the opportunity to
enjoy both the ski slopes and eventually the Vancouver skyline
from the sky. |
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MONTRÉAL - French yes, but
very unique
At first
glance, it’s too temping and too easy to compare Montréal to
Paris or New York. Fortunately, once you have explored the
cobblestone pedestrian streets of old Vieux-Port,
lie on the grass and enjoy the sound of the bongos in Parc
Mont-Royal on a Sunday-morning, or give your credit card
a work-out in the Underground City, you will
quickly realise that there is no place in the world that is
anything like this bilingual metropolis. Even though French is
its official language, Montréal is no French city: no French
attitudes or behaviour, but a multicultural vitality based on
its unique heritage. |
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Tackling the
interesting attractions of Montréal in 3 days, seem daunting,
but if you take this vibrant city area by area, you will soon
realise that there is much more to discover than the ordinary
tourist traps.
The annual
International Jazz Festival, indisputably the
highlight of the summer, was also presented during our time of
stay, in the Quartier Latin and Centre Ville
regions of the city. |
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We stayed at
the Auberge du Vieux-Port, in the heart of the Old
City and overlooking the harbour quays and near the impressive
Gothic Revival landmark, Basilique Notre-Dame. An
elegant family-run boutique-hotel, (found in a marine building
dating back to 1880) catering for the traveller with specific
expectations: it offers for instance, daily between 17h00 –
19h00, complimentary wines from around the world. Most of the
rooms have a rustic feel with a balance between stone-walls,
wooden beams and modern furniture, and ensures picture-perfect
views of the waterfront.
The July
Canada-Day celebrations, attracting hundreds of
thousands fun-seeking Canadians to the waterfront-area, was a
bit noisy, but the incredible fireworks display, enjoyed from
the hotel’s roof-garden, made it all worth the while. |
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Rue Saint
Paul
is the main shopping street in Old Town lined with art galleries
on both sides. Many privately donated sculptures form street
furniture and backdrops for many a tourist memory picture.
Place Jacques-Cartier
is one of the prettiest and liveliest squares in the whole city:
every day of the week, performing artists of all backgrounds
gather to entertain anyone who is willing to stop for a few
seconds. On both sides, street restaurants are packed from early
morning and local artists use the narrow cobbled street of
Rue Saint-Amable as an open-air studio, reminding one
of the picturesque Place du Tertre near the Sacré-Coeur
in Paris. |
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The
Basilique Notre-Dame is breathtaking in the richness of
its interior furnishings with a wealth of exquisite detail of
wood carvings and gilded painted saints; it can hold 4000
worshippers.
After several
redevelopment projects, the Old Port today is devoted to
recreational and leisure activities. |
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Many sun-downer
cruises depart daily to view Montréal’s many faces from the
waters of Saint Lawrence Strait: Both Buckminster Fuller’s
Biosphere and Safdie’s Habitat are
visible from the water and were built for the Expo 67 World
Fair. Not only can you marvel at the shimmering geometric dome
as a structural wonder, but also enjoy the center’s fascinating
interactive displays about the environment.
Some visitors
will fall under the peculiar spell of the city’s architecture,
discerning the history and soul of Montréal through its
miscellany of styles. It comprises an urban landscape that is
rich and eclectic, a true reflection of the people that have
built it and the various cultures that animate it.
One of
Montréal’s most remarkable attractions, Parc Olympique,
is also one of its most controversial. Built for the 1976
Olympic Games, it remained unfinished until the 1980’s, and the
retractable roof over the main stadium has never fully worked.
Nevertheless, it remains still one of Montréal’s most visited
sites. |
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Obviously the choice of restaurants is diverse: The Vieux
Montréal-area Rue Saint-Paul has dozens of individualistic options
like the wine-bar Modavie; in Downtown Montréal Boulevard
Saint-Laurent the restaurants rub shoulders. At Fonduementale
you will experience dedicated service and an interesting different
menu.
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Oratoire
Saint-Joseph,
situated at the foot of Mont-Royal, was built in Italian
Renaissance style in 1967, in honour of Brother André, who
enjoyed a reputation as a healer.
The best way to spend your last hours in Montréal is to drive in
the late afternoon up Parc Mont-Royal: and just
enjoy the sun setting over the seasonal colour cycle of the city
of the maple tree.
What a privilege to have experience the vibrant pulse of two
Canadian cities, so totally different in its setting, its
feeling and its people.
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Johann &
Monique |
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