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SEATTLE
A modernist city of many waters

 
   

Like Rome, Seattle was built on seven hills, and is a city surrounded by water: Elliott Bay, Lake Washington, Union Bay, Portage Bay and Lake Union. It is defined by inlets and bays, freshwater lakes and shipping canals.

The tall buildings seem to rise from the dark blue-grey waters, like fortress towers, soaring high above wooded urban hills. And yet, these towers are dwarfed by the snow-capped peaks of the Olympic Mountains, and the single, solitary cone shaped Mount Rainier.

   

A city is defined by its people and its architecture. Over the last decade, Seattle has blossomed into a bustling powerhouse of influence, steering the future of high technology as well as popular culture. The population and economy has boomed, due to the likes of Boeing and Microsoft. A major seaport, Seattle is a vital link in the Pacific Rim trade.

     

Both Starbucks and Pike Place Market are synonymous with this vibrant city. If compared with other American cities, Seattle radiates both a cosmopolitan, as well as a rural atmosphere: the high-rise skyline, consisting of the Space Needle, designed for the 1960’s World fair, the 76 storey Bank of America and the post-modern Technicolor Music Centre (EMP) by Gehry.

In stark contrast to these marvels of modern architecture, is the historic district that emerged as an area where farmers were allowed to park their wagons and sell their fresh produce way back at the beginning of the twentieth century.

Today it all forms part of the well-known popular Pike Place Market, stretching for several blocks. No other attraction will show so many different qualities of a city and its people.

                    

At Pike Place Fish Company you will witness the entertaining fishmongers, displaying their skills by hurling fish high over customers and countertops, before being weighed, filleted and wrapped.

The Asian flower stalls dominate the market’s flower scene and consist of the small Hmong entrepreneurial community, selling their bright flower bouquets. Follow a maze of ramps and awkward stairways to reach the Underground Mezzanines as a shopping wonderland: browse through collectables, second-hand books and old prints, or treat yourself to local artists who are more than willing to create miracles within minutes of posing.

     

   

We stayed within this pedestrian area at the Inn at the Market (www.innatthemarket.com): a sophisticated 70-room boutique-hotel, and perfect for travellers who like cosy family-run hotels with much originality and personality. Facing the intimate little entrance courtyard, is the popular Campagne Restaurant, serving excellent southern French cuisine.

The Monorail is a convenient means of travel within the central CBD. Today it links the International District, next to Quest Field Stadium, with the Seattle Center, consisting of the EMP, the Space Needle, Key Arena, Opera House and Bagley Wright Theatre.

A highlight of our visit to this interesting city was a scenic flight by water plane: departing from Portage Bay, you fly over the upmarket community of Medina, Montlake and Arboretum.

And in quite clear contrast, the strange idiosyncratic floating home enclaves of Lake Union, brings memories back of the well-known romantic movie of the nineties, Sleepless in Seattle

The numerous Bascule bridges operate with counterweights and cantilevered sections that can be raised and lowered for both vehicles and ships, along the working waterfront of the Ship Canal Route.

Before returning to home base, the small plane rubs shoulders with the Space Needle and other high rise buildings on the water’s edge.

           

A worthwhile visit is Fremont, an “artist republic” since the 1960’s, when students, artists and bohemians, attracted by the low rent, moved in. This quaint neighbourhood spawns many boutiques, art galleries and restaurants, always transforming and changing the face and identity. As the city grows and expands, more and more professionals seek homes in Fremont, only minutes away from downtown
 

Other day trips may include the Mount Rainier National Park and the Snoqualmie Falls. This 85 meter waterfall, beautifully divided in two sections by a convenient rock outcropping, marks the end of the Cascade Plateau, where this river begins its final descent to the sea.

The Seattle-Tacoma (Sea-Tac) International Airport is located some 16 kilometres to the south of the city. (www.seatac.org) The only authorised taxi company to take passengers from the airport into town is STITA. Fares are US$ 40 and the drive will take about 20 minutes.

Due to its almost isolated location in the north west corner of the USA, just south of Canada, Seattle will not be included in the ordinary itinerary. However it is absolutely worth the effort to visit; especially as a departing port for many an Inside Passage cruise to Alaska.

- Johan & Monique

 

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