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SEATTLE
A modernist city of many waters |
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Like Rome,
Seattle was built on seven hills, and is a city surrounded by
water: Elliott Bay, Lake Washington, Union Bay, Portage Bay and
Lake Union. It is defined by inlets and bays, freshwater lakes
and shipping canals.
The tall buildings seem to rise from the dark blue-grey waters,
like fortress towers, soaring high above wooded urban hills. And
yet, these towers are dwarfed by the snow-capped peaks of the
Olympic Mountains, and the single, solitary cone shaped Mount
Rainier. |
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Both Starbucks
and Pike Place Market are synonymous with this vibrant city. If
compared with other American cities, Seattle radiates both a
cosmopolitan, as well as a rural atmosphere: the high-rise
skyline, consisting of the Space Needle, designed for the 1960’s
World fair, the 76 storey Bank of America and the post-modern
Technicolor Music Centre (EMP) by Gehry.
In stark
contrast to these marvels of modern architecture, is the
historic district that emerged as an area where farmers were
allowed to park their wagons and sell their fresh produce way
back at the beginning of the twentieth century.
Today it all
forms part of the well-known popular Pike Place Market,
stretching for several blocks. No other attraction will show so
many different qualities of a city and its people. |
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At Pike Place
Fish Company you will witness the entertaining fishmongers,
displaying their skills by hurling fish high over customers and
countertops, before being weighed, filleted and wrapped.
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The Asian
flower stalls dominate the market’s flower scene and consist of
the small Hmong entrepreneurial community, selling their bright
flower bouquets. Follow a maze of ramps and awkward stairways to
reach the Underground Mezzanines as a shopping wonderland:
browse through collectables, second-hand books and old prints,
or treat yourself to local artists who are more than willing to
create miracles within minutes of posing. |
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We stayed
within this pedestrian area at the Inn at the
Market
(www.innatthemarket.com):
a sophisticated 70-room boutique-hotel, and perfect for
travellers who like cosy family-run hotels with much originality
and personality. Facing the intimate little entrance courtyard,
is the popular Campagne Restaurant, serving excellent
southern French cuisine.
The Monorail is
a convenient means of travel within the central CBD. Today it
links the International District, next to Quest Field Stadium,
with the Seattle Center, consisting of the EMP, the Space
Needle, Key Arena, Opera House and Bagley Wright Theatre. |
A highlight of our visit to this interesting city was a scenic
flight by water plane: departing from Portage Bay, you fly over the
upmarket community of Medina, Montlake and Arboretum.
And in quite clear contrast, the strange idiosyncratic floating home
enclaves of Lake Union, brings memories back of the well-known
romantic movie of the nineties, Sleepless in
Seattle
The numerous
Bascule bridges operate with counterweights and cantilevered
sections that can be raised and lowered for both vehicles and ships,
along the working waterfront of the Ship Canal Route.
Before returning to home base, the small plane rubs shoulders with
the Space Needle and other high rise buildings on the water’s edge.

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A
worthwhile visit is Fremont, an “artist republic” since the
1960’s, when students, artists and bohemians, attracted by
the low rent, moved in. This quaint neighbourhood spawns
many boutiques, art galleries and restaurants, always
transforming and changing the face and identity. As the city
grows and expands, more and more professionals seek homes in
Fremont, only minutes away from downtown
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Other day
trips may include the Mount Rainier National Park and the
Snoqualmie Falls. This 85 meter waterfall, beautifully
divided in two sections by a convenient rock outcropping,
marks the end of the Cascade Plateau, where this river
begins its final descent to the sea.
The
Seattle-Tacoma (Sea-Tac) International Airport is located
some 16 kilometres to the south of the city. (www.seatac.org)
The only authorised taxi company to take passengers from the
airport into town is STITA. Fares are US$ 40 and the drive
will take about 20 minutes. |
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Due to its almost
isolated location in the north west corner of the USA, just south of
Canada, Seattle will not be included in the ordinary itinerary.
However it is absolutely worth the effort to visit; especially as a
departing port for many an Inside Passage cruise to Alaska.
- Johan & Monique
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