TWO SPECIAL CITIES

PHILADELPHIA (USA)

With nearly 1, 5 million inhabitants Philadelphia is ranked by size as the fifth largest city in the USA (after New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, and Houston). It was the nation’s first capital, and the country’s political and economic centre during the 18^th century. Over time the economic heart shifted north to New York, and the governmental power south to Washington, DC. But, as I discovered during a week-long stay, due to its charms and diversity Philadelphia, flanked by two rivers, the Schuylkill and Delaware, soon reveals itself to be a fascinating metropolis. And since it is conveniently situated between New York and Washington, DC, it can easily be reached by train within an hour or two.

For those with an affinity for the historic, this is the American city par excellence. William Penn, the founder, chose the name from Greek, meaning “ brotherly love” (philos = love / friendship; adelphos = brother), now commonly referred to as Philly. The original center square today contains the City Hall, the largest municipal building in the USA. On its rooftop (156 m) a 11-meter tall statue of William Penn looks out over the city.

The foundations of the entire United States are rooted in the historic area called the Old City, with the Independence National Park as the most important. It was here that ideas were born and actions taken that gave birth to the American Revolution and American independence. The Declaration of Independence as well as the American Constitution was signed in the elegant Independence Hall. Nearby one finds the most visited site in the city, the Liberty Bell Centre, where the famous cracked bell is exhibited. This bell cracked soon after being cast in England. From high up in the tower of the Independence Hall it summoned the colonists to hear the first public reading of the Declaration of Independence - in that way becoming the hallowed symbol of American liberty.

Not far away, the Rodin Museum will be found, housing the largest collections of Rodin’s works outside of Paris. At the moment the museum houses 124 sculptures, including bronze casts of Rodin’s best works. When entering the courtyard, you are stopped in your tracks by one of the most famous sculptures in the world, The Thinker. Inside you will see the heroic and moving Burghers of Calais, Eternal Springtime, the powerful work dealing with human love, and the overwhelming The Gates of Hell.

Amongst the other interesting museums is that to the memory and honour of the legendary tenor, Mario Lanza, to be found in the Mario Lanza Institute, in Queen Street, where he was born. The African American Historical and Cultural Museum in Arch Street is the first of its kind in America exhibiting work portraying the African American experience in the city and the United States. What I also found most interesting, is the Natural History Museum to be found on your way from the city centre up to the Museum of Art. The panoramas depicting American wildlife are pieces of art in itself.

But Philadelphia is also known for its interesting and original cuisine. The food icon of  Philly is the cheese steak, commonly known as a Philly Steak,  made of thinly sliced pieces of steak, covered with American cheese, and resting in a roll. It was invented in the city in 1930, and soon grew in popularity. Other typical Philadelphian treats are soft pretzels, hoagies (sandwiches packed with cold lunch meats, cheese, lettuce, peppers, etc), scrapple (a loaf made of pork scraps, cornmeal and flour), water ice (a frozen dessert made from concentrated syrup of fruit puree), and Tastycakes, diverse snack sized pre-packed desserts.     

Academically Philadelphia has one of the USA’s well-known universities, whilst sporting-wise it boasts one of the foremost basket-ball teams in the country, named the 76-ers, who more than once won the national league. I was fortunate to be in Philadelphia at the time when the 76-ers were playing in the last qualifying matches. It was fascinating to follow their progress on TV, and to experience the enthusiasm of the locals. Furthermore, Philadelphia is well-known as a conference centre, boasting one of the largest convention centers in the States. I was, for example, quite amazed to see a notice at the entrance door of one of the conference rooms stating that only 5 999 attendees are allowed inside!

Stuttgart has the reputation of being the “Cradle of the automobile”. This is where Gottlieb Daimler and Karl Benz invented the four-wheel automobile as well as the motorbike. The first VW Beetle was manufactured here. Today Mercedes-Benz, Porsche and the exclusive Maybach are all produced here. At the sensational Mercedes-Benz World around 160 vehicles, from the earliest models up to the latest in production, are on display. From the autumn of 2008 Porsche will also open a museum, showing more than 80 serial vehicles, prototypes and racing cars. The Stuttgart area is also known for its high-tech industries, a place where the world’s first TV Tower was erected (1950).

Stuttgart has the reputation of being the “Cradle of the automobile”. This is where Gottlieb Daimler and Karl Benz invented the four-wheel automobile as well as the motorbike. The first VW Beetle was manufactured here. Today Mercedes-Benz, Porsche and the exclusive Maybach are all produced here. At the sensational Mercedes-Benz World around 160 vehicles, from the earliest models up to the latest in production, are on display. From the autumn of 2008 Porsche will also open a museum, showing more than 80 serial vehicles, prototypes and racing cars. The Stuttgart area is also known for its high-tech industries, a place where the world’s first TV Tower was erected (1950).

Apart from the castles and museums the most interesting place for me is the Market Hall, next to the Old Castle and the Collegiate Church, an art nouveau building regarded as the most beautiful market in Germany.  At any time of the year diverse and colourful fruit and vegetables from around the world are artistically and appetisingly arranged. The first things I always buy are the large, firm, succulent and sweet black figs from Turkey. I also once bought large, shining dates - only to discover that they were imported from Upington in SA! Fish from the North Sea and trout from the Black Forest are delivered daily. The rich palette of foodstuffs from many countries of the world make this market hall a magical and sensuous place to simply stroll through without a goal, just to smell, to look and to taste!

One of my most memorable experiences abroad happened in Stuttgart. My wife and I once arrived in Stuttgart, and walking along the broad boulevard from the station towards the Schlossplatz, we became aware that thousands of people were making their way to the square. At all the entrances students sitting next to giant heaps of salt, a meter or two high, greeted and presented all with small packets of salt, with a card saying Du bist die Saltz der Erde (“You are the salt of the earth”) attached to it. That evening we witnessed how 200 000 Christians (according to the newspapers the next day), listened to messages from delegates all over the world proclaiming their faith. We joined in the singing, praying and worshipping, although we could not always understand the different languages being spoken. Here we experienced the importance of this region in Christian religious history. The Baden-Württemberg area was where Martin Luther initiated the Reformation, and more than once preached in the historic Stiffskirche (from 1170), just next to the Schlossplatz. Today Stuttgart is the seat of a Protestant bishop (Protestant State Church of Württemberg), and one of the two co-seats of the bishop of the Roman Catholic diocese of Rottenberg-Stuttgart.