BERCHTESGADENERLAND
Between Mountains and lakes

Germany possesses only a small section of the Alps; a relatively narrow strip running the 300 kilometers from the Allgäuer Alpen in Bavarian Schwabia, with the popular Schloss Neuschwanstein, and the Zugspitze as highest peak in Europe, near Garmisch-Partenkirche, to Berchtesgadener Land, forming the eastern border with Austria.

This scenic route is called the Deutsche Alpen Strasse, and includes some of the most beautiful views of lush green slopes and valleys, with crystal clear reflections in mirror-like lakes. The reward for any keen photographer is the unexpected views that await when driving on the narrow, off the beaten track roads, which meanders past many secluded villages to the likes of Ramsau on the Hintersee.

The village of Berchtesgaden is ideally positioned to explore the many scenic areas of the region. It is surrounded by the mountains like the Watzmann and Hochkalter, with peaks covered by snow for most of the year.

We stayed at the VierjahresZeiten hunting lodge, run for generations by the Millers Family. This hunting lodge/pension in the old town, serves venison dishes with a regional flavour, in its well known restaurant, St Hubertus. From our balcony we experienced the ever-changing moods of the environment’s weather: arrived in a heavy downpour, crystal-clear last sunrays on the Hoher Göll mountain peaks, full moon on the Königssee, and low clouds in the morning.

Some 5 kilometers south of the town, is the deep and narrow emerald-green lake, Königssee. On the lake, stretching some 10 kilometers in length, electric operated boats depart regularly in season from the lively tourist-village, Seelände; 

Enroute the ship’s captain blows the trumpet at the well known echo face of the Watzmann. With its trio of red shingled cupolas, the 12 th century iconic pilgrimage chapel of St Bartholomä, is the first of a few stops on the lake and extremely popular to be photographed.
              

For enthusiastic hikers, two specific scenic routes exist. The first is a two hour’s walk from the chapel to the Eiskapelle (Ice chapel). Moving west and away from the lake, the path weaves gently through multi-coloured maple and beech woodlands during the fall, where ferns, clover and purple cornflowers carpet the forest floor. Through the trees, you are rewarded with fleeting glimpses of the chiseled east face of the Watzmann.

The valley is wildly beautiful and feels light years away from the holiday crowds down at the lake. Eventually you will reach the huge opening, dug by the water of melting snow, in the solid ice: as the snow gathers in the corner of the rocks, a dome emerges that reaches heights of over 200 meters.

At the furthest cruise stop of Königssee, once you have reached Salet, a short walk will bring you to the wonderful view at the end of the valley: the lake Obersee, reflecting the mountains in its pristine waters and the Röthbach waterfall (the highest in Germany) which plunges 400 meters down.

Another enjoyable stroll is by ascending the JennerBahn gondola, a five minutes’ walk from Seelände, where the boat cruise starts. At the top station, a short walk will lead you to the incredible 360 degree viewpoint: far down below, the Königssee glitters emerald-green at the foot of the mighty Watzmann to the west, while the craggy summit of Hoher Göll rises to the east. Shimmering to the south is the Übergossene Alm glacier. No wonder that Alexander von Humboldt, the famous German explorer, described this as one of the most beautiful places in the world! And it is certainly difficult to drag yourself away from the breathtaking panorama of God’s creation.

The final stage of the trip is a walk via a tunnel and brass-lined elevator to the house. People might remember Alastair MacLean’s book and movie Where Eagles Dare, which was filmed on location.

The second highest alpine road in Germany is the panoramic 20 kilometers’ drive along the Rossfeldt-Höhenringstrasse, brainchild of Martin Bornmann in 1930 and eventually completed only after the Second World War. This scenic toll road ascends to 1600 meters, beginning at either Oberau or Obersalzberg, two of the numerous mountain villages in the Rossfeldt-ridge which separates Bavaria from Austria.
 

Within an hour’s drive from Berchtesgaden is the Chiemsee, also known as the Bavarian See. Two very interesting islands are located in this lake: the Herreninsel and Fraueninsel. Herreninsel is the largest island, and is home to Schloss Herrenchiemsee, King Ludwig 2nd’s legacy, based on the well-known Palace of Versailles near Paris. Although it was never finished, it is still a major tourist attraction today. Ludwig spent a mere nine days in the twenty completed lavish rooms, before his austere death in the lake.

It is not difficult to understand why some of his ministers thought he was mad. After bankrupting the state to build the castles of Linderhof and Neuschwanstein, Ludwig 2 spent the Wittelsbach family fortune erecting a palace at least equal in size and magnificence to the French original.

The 20 minute ferry from Prien-Stock takes you to the island. You can either walk or take a horse-drawn carriage across sloping meadows and through a stand of woods, eventually reaching the formal garden and seemingly endless façade of the Schloss.