THE DIFFERENT FACE OF BELGIUM - A Tale of three Flemish Cities

It is interesting to note that Belgium is still seen by many foreigners as a small province of the Netherlands. Today many still believe that Antwerpen is a Dutch city, Liège is part of France and Bruxelles is a suburb of Amsterdam.

However, this small country located between France, Germany and the Netherlands, has a population density of just under 330 people per square kilometer, one of the world’s highest.

Opening any book on Belgium is like finding a tiny jewel hidden within layers of history. Belgians do not share the same arrogance of some other countries stating that their homeland is the biggest and best and visitors should count themselves privileged to experience it: Belgians would rather share with you as visitor their passion for their cultural heritage, the country’s beauty in its simplicity and obviously, their pride as world renowned beer makers!

On our recent trip to Belgium with our daughter Leandi, we focused mostly on Flanders, the north-western part of the country. During the week-long touring of rural Vlaanderen, we visited Gent, Brugge and Antwerpen. Now one of Europe’s most dynamic and prosperous regions, Flanders is experiencing a second Renaissance, it is flaunting its heritage, and is intent on making its own mark on the world.

While Antwerpen and Brugge steal the limelight with their arty vibe and picture-postcard vistas respectively, Gent is content being a mostly undiscovered gem. With its handsome set of medieval buildings and numerous canals, Gent is an authentically Flemish city, crowded by students.

A good way to observe the many faces of this student city, is hopping onto Het Bootjes van Gent, a cruise along some of the most scenic canals of the town centre.

One will not visit Flanders without focusing on the art works of the Flemish Masters, led by Rubens and van Eyck, and on view at the cathedral: the altarpiece St Bravo’s entry into the Monastery of Gent and The adoration of the Mystic Lamb. It is interesting to note that the altarpiece has been stolen by Napoleon and looted by the Nazis, but it always found its way back to Gent!

Gent is not fully appreciated if you do not pay a visit to the popular student spot, Het Bierhuis aan de Waterkant, where you can sample any one of the more than 400 different types of beer, starting with the Kwak, served in a peculiar decanter! Overlooking the scenic confluence of the Lieve Canal and the River Leie, and with the waterside terrace next to little Appelbrug Parkje, the Jan Breydel restaurant serves a carefully considered range of both haute cuisine and typical local dishes alike. For an original souvenir, take some time to browse the whimsical shop called Fallen Angels, found across the restaurant in Breydel Street.

We stayed in the loft room of the friendly family run 17^tcentury house hotel Erasmus, situated just off the old town centre, with easy access to a ideal parking garage down the street.

Brugge was developed around a 9^th-century fortress, built to defend the coast against the Norwegian Vikings. The centre of Brugge is amazingly preserved, escaping major damage in both World Wars. Today the streets are well maintained and the traffic heavily regulated.

We stayed at the beautifully renovated Duc de Bourgogne, overlooking the canal and with the entrance facing Huidenvettersplein and the bridge leading to the Blinde Ezel Steeg (Blind donkey alley). Our room, which was right in the corner with windows facing two stretches of canals, was one of our best stays ever: to be part of the bustling canal scene, and also in a secluded part of the family-run hotel.

The energy of Brugge pulsates from its two central squares, the Markt and the Burg. The Market square has been the hub of daily life in Brugge for more than 10 centuries, having served as the trade centre of the town since 958 AD.


Overlooking the Markt is the Belfort bell tower: those who brave the 365 steps, one for each day of the year, can enjoy the unobstructed view of the compact town, reduced to a fairytale toy town far below.

t Brugs Beertjes is as small inside as its reputation is large. This beer-lover’s mecca for more than two decades, has more than 250 different beers on its menu. Whether your choice is one of the plenty flavoured Kriek beers, or a Duvel, a small but potent beer, you will remember the ambiance of this gem of a drinking hole long after the taste of the Belgium beer.

Antwerpen can rightly claim to be not just the most exciting city in Belgium, but one of the most inviting destinations in Europe. Quite simply, it is a city that has something for everyone and every taste. Whether you are into fashion, art history, character or photographic corners, a visit to the second biggest city of Belgium is by far the hippest.

What began a few years ago, when a handful of hip local designers, now internationally known as the Antwerp Six, took the fashion world by storm, has now transformed this city into a cutting-edge symbol of style. This vibrant creativity is visible in both the shop- fronts of fashion houses, as well as a host of chic restaurants where the décor is innovative as is the delicately style cuisine.

 

Its stylish heart is centered on the glorious Grote Markt with its numerous gorgeous gabled guild houses facing the Brabo fountain and adjoining smaller Handschoenmarkt fronting onto the stunning Onze Lieve Vrouwekathedraal, built in true Gothic style. Many of Rubens famous works are found inside this museum-like Cathedral. During our visit, some local artists and specialists were busy renovating  the ceiling paintings.

Leading off on all sides of the Grote Markt is a maze of narrow cobbled streets and alleyways heading into different directions: it is very easy to get lost, but that is half the fun of rediscovering the historical centre – wandering down a new passageway, you may come upon a local beer-pub with noisy locals avidly watching a cycling race, their favourite sport, or finding a cool bar, filled with arty students, sipping red wine and listening to funky jazz, or a small bistro, serving a delicious traditional Flemish casserole of beef braised in beer.

What is it about these cities that set them apart? There are many reasons; among which is that the history of both Gent and Brugge are written everywhere in their streets and buildings, their art and their culture. They are justifiably famous for their sheer beauty and are certainly of the most uniformly picturesque cities one is ever likely to visit.