GASTRONOMIC WOODLANDS OF ARDENNES:
Food for both body and soul

Somewhere in the middle of nowhere you will find the diverse countryside of Ardennes. Partly north-east France and partly south western Belgium, or more specifically at the south of Wallonia, lies the region of extensive forests, rolling hills and old citadels.

If you are looking for scenic forest beauty and enjoy the joys of good food and wine (and beer!), you need to look no further: if you like peace and quiet, this is Belgium’s most heavily forested region, and also least heavily populated countryside along the Meuse and Semois rivers valleys. It is a region for all seasons, but the crystal clear autumn hues of green, yellow, orange and red accentuates the change of season best.

For the wandering tourist, it is a scenic treat, a gastronomic delight and a welcome respite from ordinary sightseeing centred around ceaseless museum- and castle-hopping: That is not to say that the Ardennes lack the presence of worthwhile historic sights - to the contrary, the many medieval citadels teem with castles, cathedrals and crusade remnants. However, with the change in landscape comes a shift of emphasis, from treasures hoarded indoors to outdoor treasures of bracing air, scenic winding mountain and forested roads, sparkling clear streams and tranquil lakes. Add fairytale-like fortified towns, still in a medieval slumber, rustic barns, water-mills and monasteries converted into quaint country inns that provide the ultimate in comfort without losing one bit of their original unique character, and you more or less have the bare essence of a lovely week through the Ardennes.

It’s difficult to recommend an itinerary for this region: this is déjàvu countryside, yet so compact that it’s equally suited to returning to the same “home away from home” each night; an arrangement that suited us well this time. After my follow-up hand wrist-replacement operation in Bad Kreuznach, Germany, we decided to fill in the week prior to our German friends, Birgit and Christian’s wedding in Laubach with a relaxed week in nearby Ardennes.

We made Bouillon our base: this smallish town, key-positioned between both Germany and France, dated back to the times of the crusaders of 1096 of d’Ardenne-Verdun.

Despite its ideal and fortified location on a strategic hairpin-bend of the Semois River, you can reach the inner core by means of three bridges. Bouillon stretches along the banks of the river, looking like a fairytale book illustration in the evening.

The popular tourist season had passed, and only a few establishments were open. We stayed at the Hotel de la Poste, on Place Saint Arnould, with the reflection of the castle in the calm waters of the river passing outside our loft-bedroom window. Dating back to 1730, this modest hotel serves excellent cuisine.

A short stroll across the Pont de Liège, will bring you into the centre of town, linked by a web of steep and narrow cobblestone alleys. Most of the historic buildings are either museums (Godfrey of Bouillon-museum, Ducal Museum) or form part of the well known College of music.

The region of Bouillon consists of a dozen of small villages, all contributing to the network of remarkable excursions, centered around Bouillon, Bertrix and Paliseul.

A few kilometres away is Corbion, ideal for long walks through dense forests. On your drive along the meandering River Semois, you will experience breathtaking views of autumn-colour reflections, and many a small sleepy towns like Botassart, Poupehan, Frahan and Rochehaut.

Dinant never escaped any of the conflicts that, over centuries, raged in the Meuse Valley. Together with the well known Citadel, perched high above the town and river, and reached by a cable car, or some 400 steep steps, it remains one of the Ardennes region most popular destinations.

Some 20 kilometres from Bouillon is the famous Abbey du’Orval, known for the popular beer brewed by a handful of loyal monks. The setting, next to a small lake and surrounded by dense forestland, is impressive, and the buildings and gardens, reminding one of the Monestir de Montserrat, near Barcelona, are well maintained and visited.

A visit to the abbey is an exercise in serenity, with little to suggest the huge influence its monks wielded in past centuries. The ruins are fascinating legends to the web of underground passages that once connected the seven lakes in the vicinity, and still hide some aerie treasures of yesterday.

Spa has been a busy tourist trap since early days. So universally was its name equated with the miracles of thermal springs and mineral waters, that spa is now synonymous to health and fitness centres. The well known twin-spire black cathedral is represented on many postage stamps.  

Just south of Spa is the Circuit de Spa-Francorchamp, still voted the most beautiful racing circuit in Europe. In the beautiful vaulted cellars of the Abbey of Stavelot, a unique racing car museum is found.

Nearby, between Malmedy and Stavelot, we stayed at the Romantik Hotel le val d’Ambleve, a true romantic boutique hotel, and managed by Ruud and Marion Roxs. Under the very capable hands of Ruud, the Michelin-chèf, each dish is a beautiful composition of tastefully displayed and fresh food, prepared to perfection.

Just across the border in Germany, and next to the River Rur, lies the artist’s town of Monschau.

The renowned Glashütte und Handwerkermarkt display a wide selection of hand-blown glass works, and locally made arts and crafts.

At the Monschau Plätze und Kunst Park, art works of most of the emerging German artists are displayed.

Our last appointment in Germany, before returning via London, was the wedding of Birgit and Christian in Laubach. I met Birgit, a German orthopaedic surgeon, who can speak English fluently, during my first wrist replacement operation in February in Bad Kreuznach. Like lost in translation, I was left in the cold with my school German-language experience of some 40 years ago, and they took pity on me and invited me to dine with them and join them on various excursions to Bacharach and nearby towns in the Nahe wine region.

What an experience and privilege to have been invited to their wedding with typical German hospitality! The ceremony in the beautiful historical Evangelische Stadtkirche started at 15h00, followed by the Sektempfang at 17h00, and the Abendessen und Tanz in the medieval castle Schloss Laubach, with all the atmosphere one can imagine. Although we left at around 02h00, the younger group enjoyed sunrise the next morning! A very special tradition is whereby the married couple walked from table to table, introducing each guest and also thanked them with some personal comment for their presence and also influence on their lives. Again, this experience will be a personal memory that both Monique and I will nurture for years to come.