Quite often self-drive travellers want a foreign experience, but are afraid of going overseas for various reasons – perhaps the cost, or uncertainty with regard to customs, driving on the “wrong” side of the road or even the strangeness of foreign languages. But such a ”foreign experience“ lies on our doorstep - a trip through Namibia! We know of people who have visited this majestic country year after year; and of no one who has done it without wanting to go back again.

The itinerary that we have compiled can easily be enjoyed in 14 days, and will take you to some of the most rewarding and interesting places to see, and things to do and experience: wide open spaces, deserts, desolate landscapes, charming villages, awesome dunes, abundant wildlife, bustling towns, prehistoric settings, mysterious lakes, majestic mountains, and the friendly and interesting people of Namibia. Most of this can be reached via excellent tarred and well-maintained gravel and earth roads, whilst staying in affordable lodges or camps.

The scenery is magnificent, and the chalets are comfortable, a suitable introduction to what awaits you in the neighbouring country. From here you can enter through either of the border stations from South Africa, namely Noordoewer or Ariamsvlei. We would suggest Noordoewer, which will allow you to drive directly to Ai Ais. 

Augrabies to Ai Ais - Fish River Canyon (520 km.): At Augrabies (an hour’s drive from Upington) the Orange River drops 191metres. Its thundering cascade of water led the original Khoi residents to believe that evil spirits were active there, naming it “Ankoerebis” (place of great noise), the name from which the Trek Boers, who settled here later on, derived the name “Augrabies”. The gorge itself is 240m deep and 18km long -  a most impressive example of granite erosion. The National Park (established in 1966) in which the Falls are situated, compromises 820sq km., stretching along the Orange River. It has an attractive rest camp, with 59 chalets, three swimming pools and an extensive campsite; also a game reserve with rhinos as the main attraction.

After you’ve cleared immigration and customs at the border post, you head north on the B1. After about 60 km you turn left on the gravel road towards Ai - Ais. Ai- Ais is a hot springs resort in the lower reaches of the Fish River Canyon, surrounded by scenery reminiscent of a lunar landscape. The accommodation ranges from fully equipped chalets, to camp sites. The resort is only open from March to October, due to the high temperatures during the summer months.

Ai Ais to Sesriem/Sossusvlei (566 km.): After an early morning swim in the warm waters (a constant 60 degrees C) of the pool at Ai Ais, one can travel at leisure to the lookout point of the magnificent Fish River Canyon, En route you will pass through rugged terrain. The breathtaking vista of the Fish River making a S-turn, cutting for millennia through the surrounding rock formations, will hold you spellbound for some time. It is here, just to the right of the look-out point, where the 5 day walking trail following the course of the river, and ending at Ai Ais, starts. When you can tear yourself away from this scene, you take the road to Lüderitz, but at Goageb you turn right, continue past Helmeringhausen and then to Sesriem. This is a good gravel road; but take care of loose sand and dips.

A recommended camping place for an overnight stay is at the gate of the Namib Naukluft National

Park at the Sesriem campsite. If you are looking for something more comfortable or luxurious, there are a wide variety of lodges that will suite any traveller.

Make sure that you are at the gate at Sesriem early the next morning, just before sunrise, so that you can be at Dune 45 to witness the beautiful sunrise. You can then drive to the 4x4 parking, where you can go on a walk through the dunes with Boesman, who is famous for his stories and knowledge about the dunes, desert and all its wildlife, or (if you don’t drive a 4x4 yourself), be transported by 4x4 to the Vlei itself, where you can scale the immense dunes for magnificent views of the surrounding Namib landscape.

Swakopmund, with its characteristic German colonial-style buildings, like the Railway Station or the Woermannhaus dating back to the early 1900’s, is the adventure capital of Namibia.

Here you can down a locally brewed bear in one of the taverns, sample a selection of German confectionery on offer at Café Anton, or sip a wine, whilst viewing the sunset from the beach. There is a wide range of activities for young and old – from boat trips to parachuting, or air flips over the desert. A visit to the weavers of the wool of the karakul sheep is a must, as well as to the Crystal Gallery, where you can view some of the largest and finest specimens in the world. You will undoubtedly want to stay more than a day or two in this enchanting town.

We would also suggest that you return to Walvis Bay, to experience the sight of the tens of thousands of birds on the shallow lagoon, a unique conservation area. In a restaurant above the water, and built on poles, you can enjoy fresh fish from the ocean. On the way between Walvis Bay and Swakopmund you will find the rental park for exciting quad bike trips into the desert. These are cheaper than those just outside of Swakopmund.

Swakopmund to Twyfelfontein (390 km): From Swakopmund you take the gravel road through the Moon Landscape, before joining the tarred road to Usakos. Some 25 km. before this town you turn left on another good gravel road,  taking you past the Klein and Groot Spitzkoppe, an ancient San paradise with beautiful rock formations and Bushmen paintings.

Nearing the Spitzkoppe, you will be awed by these towering granite structures rising out of the flat surroundings. Take an hour or three to experience the silence of these strange surroundings. If you are lucky, you may even see a pair of the rosy-faced lovebirds nesting in the crags. Also, test you fitness by ascending one of the rocky slopes high up along a supporting chain for a spectacular view over this barren wilderness.

Twyfelfontein boasts one of the richest collections of rock art in Africa. This treasure house left by stone age artists is the first site in Namibia to be nominated by the Namibian Monuments Council for recognition by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Close by is the Petrified Forest, where a catalytic event millions of years ago deposited giant tree trunks which subsequently turned to stone. Here you will also be able to see fine specimens of the Welwitchia plant, which sprouts only two leaves during its long lifespan of more than 1000 years.

South of Twyfelfontein is the Burnt Mountain, a panorama of desolation with coloured rocks contrasting vividly against the grey-black surroundings. The Organ Pipes, a mass of basalt slabs in a ravine cut out by a river, is another geological curiosity in the area. Finger Rock is another interesting attraction. The 35 m. high column of limestone conglomerate and the surrounding table-top mountains are relics of an early plateau, which was subsequently eroded by the Ugab River.

Twyfelfontein to Etosha (300 km.):  Etosha, the “Great White Place”, is regarded as one of the world’s greatest game parks and is Namibia’s prime tourist attraction. It is home to several rare and endangered species of game, including one of the largest populations of black rhino in the world, as well as thousands of antelope. Covering 22,270 sq km, Etosha stretches for about 300 km from west to east and 110 km from north to south. The white clay pan covers about 5000 sq. km. of the park’s surface. It is often dry for decades, but the flood waters from the Ekuma and the Oshigambo River in the east occasionally inundate the pan, creating a vast, shallow inland lake. Although the salinity of the water is twice as high as that of sea water, the shallow water creates ideal conditions for the growth of blue–green algae, which provides a feeding ground for up to a million flamingoes. Etosha has three camps where you have a wide variety of choice when it comes to sleeping – from camping to luxury chalets. Just sitting at the water holes at each camp, especially in the evenings, will ensure that you see some of the animals. 

Etosha to Windhoek (530 km.): Just outside of Etosha is Lake Otjikoto en route to Tsumeb. Lake Otjikoto’s depth varies from 33 – 90 m and is shaped like an upside down mushroom. The lake was formed when the roof of a huge dolomite cave collapsed. Stalactite samples taken from an underwater cave have been estimated to be about 80 000 years old. Just prior to their surrender in 1915 German soldiers dumped their weapons and ammunition in this lake. Further along the route, about 20 km west of Grootfontein, in a shallow depression on the farm Hoba-West, lies the largest known meteorite in the world, the Hoba Meteorite. The 50-ton mass of nickel and iron, which is between 100 and 300 million years old, crashed to earth some 30 000  to 80 000 years ago. Discovered by Jacobus Hermanus Brits in the 1920’s, it is one of Namibia’s most interesting tourist attractions.

From here you pass through Otjiwarongo and Okahandja. At Okahandja a nice stop is the Mbangura Woodcarvers Market, next to the main road, at the entrance to the town.

Windhoek, the capital of Namibia, is often described as a city with a “continental” atmosphere. This can be ascribed to its architecture - historical buildings dating back to German colonial rule - as well as to its cuisine, culture, dress codes and educational institutions. At the same time Windhoek has the colour, sounds and tempo of a modern African city. There are several tourist attractions, like the beautifully gabled and tall-steepled Evangelical Lutheran church, the Christuskirche, or the Parliament Buildings, from where you have a lovely view over the city. When dining out, a visit to the world famous Joe’s Beer House is a must! Here you will be astounded by the innovative decorations, whilst downing a Tafel Lager or other locally brewed beer, waiting for your gemsbok fillet to be prepared to your liking!

 - Manie Wolvaardt & Yolande Coetzee