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Monaco - Small Jewel on the Mediterranean 

 

We arrived in Monaco by car in torrential rain – whilst brochures boasted that this tiny sovereign state “enjoys a particularly mild climate, with more than 300 days of sunshine per year”! My wife had her work cut out navigating us through this densely built-up area finding a parking garage. But when we exited the garage, the weather has cleared up, and a beautiful day beckoned us to explore this fascinating destination. And then we discovered that Monaco is a must for any traveler finding himself in that part of Europe.

Monaco is a constitutional monarchy established in the 12th century by the Grimaldi family. Today Prince Albert II, succeeding his father Prince Rainier, who passed away in 2005, reigns over the Principality.  Situated at the heart of Mediterranean Europe, tucked into the Maritime Alps, the surface area of this narrow coastal strip is a mere 494 acres, with a width varying between approximately 1 km. and a mere 340 m., sometimes rising almost vertically upwards for 150 m.

It lies only 20 km. from Nice International Airport and close by to the French and Italian Rivieras. By car the A8 highway serves the Principality by means of easy access roads. But if you don’t want to drive on your own, helicopter and bus services, as well as taxis provide permanent links between Nice and the Principality. The helicopter service from the airport, for example, is scheduled every 20 minutes, with the duration of the flight only 6 minutes. The population consists of a mere 32 000 inhabitants, of which only about 8 000 are born Monégasques. However it provides work for about 44 000 people, so that every day more than 20 000 French and 6 000 Italians come into Monaco for work. It was in this bustling world that we found ourselves.

Our car was parked at the Hotel Ambassador, in the new district called Fontvieille, literally created from land reclaimed from the sea. Our first concern was how we would be able to visit the different attractions. It is not possible to just drive around, or even walk from one area to another, because some of the areas can only be reached through tunnels cut through the rock, not open to pedestrians. But then we discovered that the entire Monaco is serviced by seven permanent bus routes, visiting the Principality’s most attractive zones. You can just hop on or off for a small fee wherever you want. And then there are seven public elevators currently in use, which take you to the different levels and terraces.

But before boarding a bus, we walked the small distance to the Princes Grace Rose Garden, created in 1984 by Prince Rainier in memory of his wife. This secluded spot of solemn beauty boasts immaculately kept patches of the most beautiful roses of different colours and fragrances.

Thereafter one of the bus routes took us along the Boulevard Albert I alongside the Port de Monaco, where hundreds of yachts of all sizes are moored, from small sailing boats to multi-decked passenger ships and intercontinental liners - an indication of the importance of Monaco as a premier luxury tourist destination. On the other side of the boulevard high-rise buildings and villas clinging to the steep slopes also echo the exclusivity of the surroundings.

A next bus took us all the way up the Rock, which overlooks the harbour, and on which the world famous Oceanographic Museum, the Neo-Romanesque Cathedral, and the Palace of the Prince is to be found, all within a short walking distance of one another. The Oceanographic Museum was founded in 1899 by Prince Albert I, who devoted himself entirely to scientific research, especially of ocean life. One of its directors has been Commander Jacques Cousteau, famous for his exploration of the oceans. The more than 70 sections exhibit fish and oceanic life from all the seas of the earth. The new exhibition of a living coral bed on the sea floor is most interesting. From the upper deck of the Museum you have a marvelous view of the port and the city, with the casino complex of Monte-Carlo visible across the bay. The Cathedral (dating from 1875) holds interesting decorations, amongst others a large mosaic depicting the Virgin. In the ambulatory are buried the princess who have reigned over Monaco, as well as Princess Grace.

At the Palace we were lucky to be on time for the traditional changing of the guards. Different sections of the palace is open to the public, such as the Great Rooms, which you enter via the Gallery of the Mirrors. Of particular interest is the Throne Room, where official ceremonies are held. It was in this room that the civil wedding of Prince Rainier and Princess Grace took place. On the canopy covering the throne is inscribed the Grimaldi family motto, Deo Juvante (With the help of God).

Also surely not to be missed, is the Golden Square of the Principality, where you will find the most famous casino (1863) in the world, the Hotel de Paris (1854) and the Café de Paris (1868). The vestibule of the casino is decorated with numerous columns and bronze statues. On one side of the entrance hall are the gaming rooms. The south wing contains the Salle Garnier Opera House, home of the Opera of Monte Carlo which has, since its creation in 1879, gained international fame. Composers and authors such as Bizet, Frank or Massenet wrote some of their works especially for this opera house. The well known Monte Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra, led by many great conductors, from Richard Strauss to Toscanini, and Leonard Bernstein to Lorin Maazel, also performs here. Leaving the casino, you can admire its south front, at the foot of which hanging gardens look out over the sea. Recent renovations has restored the buildings to the splendour of times gone by.

Many international events are held annually in Monaco, such as the International Circus Festival (January), the World Music Awards (March), the Monte-Carlo International Tennis Championships (April), the Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix (May), and the International Fireworks Display (July - August).

Initially we were unsure of taking off a day or two from our trip to Provence. And I was a little bit nervous about driving into the city by car. But now I can declare without doubt that this visit was more than worth-while. One of the brochures on Monaco concludes with these words so applicable from Shakespeare’s Richard II (Act II): “ ‘This fortress built by Nature for herself against infection and the hand of war … This happy breed of men, this little world; This precious stone set in the silver sea … This blessed plot, this earth …’, this Principality.”  (Editorial Fisa Escudo De Oro).

 - Manie Wolvaardt

 

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