the Ireland which greets their eyes is a very different place: the quiet, glowing beauty of a magical countryside, the stylish and formal architecture and vigorous life of the small towns, the charm and wit of a warm-hearted population - these all make the first and lasting impression. Today still a huge distinction exists between the independent Republic of Ireland (Dublin) and Northern Ireland (Belfast) which still falls under the United Kingdom.

I had the fortunate opportunity to attend the first two RWC matches of South Africa with my son in Paris. The atmosphere and presence of especially the England match at Stade de France was exceptional; even more noticeable was the disciplined and orderly manner in which the transport systems function in Paris: within an hour and a half the four metro stations and trains had coped with all of the 80 000 spectators.

The subtle but firm control of patrolling police present everywhere ensures an enjoyable time both on the stands and elsewhere in the city; with our own 2010 Football World Cup around the corner, much can be learned from the French.

Driving north from Dublin International Airport, we soon reached Newry by main road; from here we took the scenic route along the Carlingford Lough, the coastline with the Mourne Mountains on the inner side. Lough Strangford divides the Lecale and Ards Peninsulas, with a short car ferry crossing at Portaferry.

The surroundings were highlighted by sandy beaches, small fishing villages, like Portavogie (popular for its prawns), or Kearney (restored to its original beauty) with the typical Irish bar in the main street, serving a well-prepared meal with some ale pies and a pint of Guinness stout.

Belfast is still Northern Ireland’s biggest, most important and lively University City: A stroll in the area around the Royal Academic Institute and Donegal Square with the monumental Georgian City Hall, will reveal much of the present Belfast and its people: modern shops and restaurants in restored historic buildings, young people rushing to destinations in contrast to other sitting in quiet public gardens, to fight the rush hour. For the first time tourist, the popular open deck sightseeing bus or a river cruise on the Lagan are both good ways of familiarising yourself with the city.

Further north is the Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge, swinging over a 25 metre chasm to an island salmon fishery. Surely not for those with vertigo or the faint-hearted!

However, one of the most visited natural wonder sites of Northern Ireland, the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Giant’s Causeway consists of an astonishing assembly of more than 40 000 basalt columns, mostly perfect hexagonals formed by the cooling of molten lava.

The small town of Bushmills has an attractive square and is popular for salmon and trout fishing in its river; but the main claim to fame is its whiskey distillery: the world oldest whiskey-making license (1608). A visit is well worth the while.

But it was our special stay at the Bushmills Inn, sipping on a glass of Black Bush single malt on the rocks, in the cosy pub with open fire, which will be a pleasant memory in years to come.

The next morning the weather cleared when we drove into Londonderry, energetic, creative and confident Within the angle of Butcher and Shipquay Streets, small workshops rub shoulders with cafés, wine bars and trendy eateries. The street of pubs is Waterloo street, where great traditional and modern music are found in the bars. On route to Donegal, a stop at the stone structures of Grainan of Aileach reminds one of the Stonehenge.

The jewel town of our Northern visit will always be Ardara. This secluded town near Loughros More Bay is the weaving capital of Ireland and has a proliferation of shops selling locally made tweeds and hand-knitted sweaters. Eddie Doherty represents the third generation in his little yellow-door shop in the main street.

The picturesque town of Ardara - home of tweed



 

We stayed at the beautiful 19^th century family-run hotel, the Nesbitt Arms, situated in the main street. That evening we enjoyed a typical Irish pub dinner in the Weavers Bistro. While enjoying the home made food, a local vocalist on her fiddle displayed why the Irish are so highly regarded as performing artists. When staying in a traditional little town on a secluded detour road, you will almost always experience the real feeling of the vibe of the locals. Ardara was no exception.

During October the community of Ardara presents the Céili Ardara, a traditional barn and set dancing exhibition.

The last visual experience on our route back to Dublin was Lough Erne. As one drives along the ever-changing shoreline, scenes of beauty unfold emphasizing tranquility and colour.  Many fancy golf estates and yacht clubs are situated on the luscious banks of the inland lake, which makes it an ideal week-end escape for city-dwellers.

Our journey through Northern Ireland took us along small and detoured roads - off the beaten track - where we experienced the real Ireland with people full of humour and generosity. It has been always my philosophy that you can only feel a country, if you have mixed with the local people in the small and secluded villages, enjoy their stories and breathe their air!   

- Johann Beukes