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Rocky Mountains
Majesty -
Gateway to the Canadian natural wonder-world
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The dramatic beauty of
British Columbia and Alberta is internationally renowned
for its spectacular mountain scenery of snow-capped ranges,
valleys, glaciers lakes and forests. The landscape varies from
the northern Rockies with its bare peaks to the southern region
of Okanagan Valley
with its orchards and vineyards.
One can enjoy the passing changing landscape by train or by car;
we had the privilege of both: a two-day journey leaving
Vancouver on the western coast of Canada, by five star
Rocky Mountaineer train coach en route Kamloops
for an overnight stay, and onto Jasper on the second day;
followed by a four day road journey following the
Icefields and Bow Valley Parkways from
Jasper in the north to Banff in the south. |
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We travelled onboard the Goldleaf Rocky Mountaineer which
features impeccable service, excellent dining including local
wines and reclining seats on an elegant bi-level dome coach.
Departing from Canada’s third largest city Vancouver to
Kamloops
in the heart of British Columbia’s interior, we were lucky
enough to be the last train to leave after heavy torrential
rains resulted in flooding of the low lying regions. The trip
onboard takes you through seven mountain ranges, dozens of
bridges and tunnels and alongside numerous waterfalls, lakes and
river valleys. To ensure that the dramatic vistas are fully
enjoyed, the train travels at an enjoyable pace and only
operates in daylight, giving you plenty of time to marvel at the
scenery, wildlife and engineering accomplishments of pioneering
railroaders. The train journey terminates at Jasper,
northern entrance to the Canadian Rockies National Parks.
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The region consists of about
five connecting parks, of which the Japer National Park is the
largest. One can either take a light aircraft flip to get a most
wonderful aerial view of the uniqueness of this particular part
of the Rockies, or you can go up the tramway up Whistlers
Mountain for a refreshing hike of the summit and spectacular
panoramic views of the snowcapped peaks and the dark green
valleys far below, each containing its own mirror-like lake. The
hour’s detour drive to
Maligne
Lake and the
boat cruise to Spirit Island are well worth the effort
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Leaving Jasper behind, we travelled south on route 93, passed
the
Athabasca Falls,
plunging into a narrow ravine, similar to our own Bourke’s
Potholes back home.
Centuries of water-erosion has contributed to the rock
silhouettes, visible from numerous vantage points. When the
Athabasca Glacier carved out the valley, it failed to erode the
resistant step of quartzite over which the falls cascade. The
churning force of the falls testifies that while the wilderness
may at times seem serene, it is anything but
tame!
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A little further
on the route, the
Sunwapta Falls
greet the onlooker as a cascading curtain drop of falls. Totally
different from the Athabasca, these lively cascades resembles
the many similar falls found in Iceland: unpretentious, but
strikingly beautiful.
The
Columbia Icefield,
a mass of ice on the boundary of Jasper and Banff Parks, lies at
the hydro graphic apex of North America. Astride the Continental
Divide, these enormous ice fields are referred to as the
mother of rivers, feeding the Athabasca, Columbia, Fraser
and Saskatchewan River systems of Canada. The Athabasca Glacier
is one of the eight outlet valley glaciers that flow from the
Columbia Icefields, and most accessible next to the highway. In
the course of time the glacial movements have formed vast
crevasses in the ice.
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Still largely
wilderness, the Rockies is inhabited by a large variety of fauna
and flora. Even along the roads we encountered black bear,
elk, moose and coyote. Plant life varies greatly due to
drastic changes in elevation. Natural forests form the backdrop
of an ever-changing habitat. It is only when you stop, that you
become aware of the diverse beauty of plant detail and a
multi-colour array of wild flowers.
Canada’s first and most famous national park,
Banff,
encompasses impressive peaks, scenic river valleys and the
popular resort towns of Lake Louise and Banff. |
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Lake Louise,
the turquoise-colour lake which is synonymous with the Rockies,
needs no introduction. The glacier-laden Mount Victoria, which
forms the backdrop décor to Lake Louise, was described as the
big snow mountain above the lake in which you see the world.
The world renowned Chateau Lake Louise, a 1000 bed luxury
hotel built by the Railway Company at the beginning of the
previous century, sits like a bastion on the one side of the
lake.
However, we
preferred the far less ostentatious 10 bed-roomed
Moraine Lake
Lodge (designed by the Vancouver architect Arthur Erickson),
nestled among pine trees facing the lake at the end of a gravel
road.
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Tranquillity, home
prepared food, good wine, natural beauty, changing colours of
the mirror-like lake, all ensure the stay of a life time. Ample
scenic trails make this haven in the Valley of the Ten
Peaks, an ideal base to explore the central region of
the Rockies. To name a few, Consolation Valley, pinnacle
called the
Tower of Babel,
Larch Valley and Sentinel Pass.
This lake, much
smaller and far less visited than Louise, occupies a splendid
site below the sheer walls of the Wenckchemna peaks, and even a
more intense blue-green hue. No scene has given me an equal
impression of inspiring solitude and rugged grandeur. |
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Inspired by the
beauty of the park’s mountains, lakes, waterfalls and
distinctive rock formations, the
Yoho National Park
was
named for the Cree word meaning awe and wonder.
This park offers a wide range of outdoor activities, focused on
the adrenaline junkie, for instance rock climbing, hiking,
boating and skiing. Famous landmarks include the
Emerald Lake,
Natural Bridge, Lake O’Hara
and the
impressive
Takakkaw Falls.
Although this
rocky wonder world has numerous mountain peaks, valleys and
lakes, each one addresses you in a different distinct language
through its unique beauty and atmosphere – a place that you
would like to return to in years to come…
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- Johann Beukes
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