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Rocky Mountains Majesty - Gateway to the Canadian natural wonder-world 

 
   

The dramatic beauty of British Columbia and Alberta is internationally renowned for its spectacular mountain scenery of snow-capped ranges, valleys, glaciers lakes and forests. The landscape varies from the northern Rockies with its bare peaks to the southern region of Okanagan Valley with its orchards and vineyards.

One can enjoy the passing changing landscape by train or by car; we had the privilege of both: a two-day journey leaving Vancouver on the western coast of Canada, by five star Rocky Mountaineer train coach en route Kamloops for an overnight stay, and onto Jasper on the second day; followed by a four day road journey following the Icefields and Bow Valley Parkways from Jasper in the north to Banff in the south.

   

We travelled onboard the Goldleaf Rocky Mountaineer which features impeccable service, excellent dining including local wines and reclining seats on an elegant bi-level dome coach.

Departing from Canada’s third largest city Vancouver to
Kamloops in the heart of British Columbia’s interior, we were lucky enough to be the last train to leave after heavy torrential rains resulted in flooding of the low lying regions. The trip onboard takes you through seven mountain ranges, dozens of bridges and tunnels and alongside numerous waterfalls, lakes and river valleys. To ensure that the dramatic vistas are fully enjoyed, the train travels at an enjoyable pace and only operates in daylight, giving you plenty of time to marvel at the scenery, wildlife and engineering accomplishments of pioneering railroaders. The train journey terminates at Jasper, northern entrance to the Canadian Rockies National Parks.

   

The region consists of about five connecting parks, of which the Japer National Park is the largest. One can either take a light aircraft flip to get a most wonderful aerial view of the uniqueness of this particular part of the Rockies, or you can go up the tramway up Whistlers Mountain for a refreshing hike of the summit and spectacular panoramic views of the snowcapped peaks and the dark green valleys far below, each containing its own mirror-like lake. The hour’s detour drive to Maligne Lake and the boat cruise to Spirit Island are well worth the effort
 

   

Leaving Jasper behind, we travelled south on route 93, passed the Athabasca Falls, plunging into a narrow ravine, similar to our own Bourke’s Potholes back home.

Centuries of water-erosion has contributed to the rock silhouettes, visible from numerous vantage points. When the Athabasca Glacier carved out the valley, it failed to erode the resistant step of quartzite over which the falls cascade. The churning force of the falls testifies that while the wilderness may at times seem serene, it is anything but
tame!  

   

A little further on the route, the Sunwapta Falls greet the onlooker as a cascading curtain drop of falls. Totally different from the Athabasca, these lively cascades resembles the many similar falls found in Iceland: unpretentious, but strikingly beautiful.

The Columbia Icefield, a mass of ice on the boundary of Jasper and Banff Parks, lies at the hydro graphic apex of North America. Astride the Continental Divide, these enormous ice fields are referred to as the mother of rivers, feeding the Athabasca, Columbia, Fraser and Saskatchewan River systems of Canada. The Athabasca Glacier is one of the eight outlet valley glaciers that flow from the Columbia Icefields, and most accessible next to the highway. In the course of time the glacial movements have formed vast crevasses in the ice.

   

Still largely wilderness, the Rockies is inhabited by a large variety of fauna and flora. Even along the roads we encountered black bear, elk, moose and coyote. Plant life varies greatly due to drastic changes in elevation. Natural forests form the backdrop of an ever-changing habitat. It is only when you stop, that you become aware of the diverse beauty of plant detail and a multi-colour array of wild flowers.

Canada’s first and most famous national park,
Banff, encompasses impressive peaks, scenic river valleys and the popular resort towns of Lake Louise and Banff.

   

Lake Louise, the turquoise-colour lake which is synonymous with the Rockies, needs no introduction. The glacier-laden Mount Victoria, which forms the backdrop décor to Lake Louise, was described as the big snow mountain above the lake in which you see the world.  The world renowned Chateau Lake Louise, a 1000 bed luxury hotel built by the Railway Company at the beginning of the previous century, sits like a bastion on the one side of the lake.

However, we preferred the far less ostentatious 10 bed-roomed Moraine Lake Lodge (designed by the Vancouver architect Arthur Erickson), nestled among pine trees facing the lake at the end of a gravel road. 

   

Tranquillity, home prepared food, good wine, natural beauty, changing colours of the mirror-like lake, all ensure the stay of a life time. Ample scenic trails make this haven in the Valley of the Ten Peaks, an ideal base to explore the central region of the Rockies. To name a few, Consolation Valley, pinnacle called the Tower of Babel, Larch Valley and Sentinel Pass. This lake, much smaller and far less visited than Louise, occupies a splendid site below the sheer walls of the Wenckchemna peaks, and even a more intense blue-green hue. No scene has given me an equal impression of inspiring solitude and rugged grandeur.

   

Inspired by the beauty of the park’s mountains, lakes, waterfalls and distinctive rock formations, the Yoho National Park was named for the Cree word meaning awe and wonder. This park offers a wide range of outdoor activities, focused on the adrenaline junkie, for instance rock climbing, hiking, boating and skiing. Famous landmarks include the Emerald Lake, Natural Bridge, Lake O’Hara and the impressive Takakkaw Falls.

Although this rocky wonder world has numerous mountain peaks, valleys and lakes, each one addresses you in a different distinct language through its unique beauty and atmosphere – a place that you would like to return to in years to come…

- Johann Beukes

 

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