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Sweden - A Tour of Three Cities

   

Sweden, the largest of the Scandinavian countries, is a gem sometimes overlooked by tourists. But what this vast forested and lake-studded country offers is awesome: stunning natural assets like glacier-topped mountains, wild rivers, countless pristine lakes and 24 nature parks; but also quaint little towns, and ultra-modern cities, hundreds of medieval castles and thousands of churches, prehistoric fortresses, Iron Age and prehistoric graveyards, burial mounds and rune stones, hundreds of superb museums - all within reach of the traveler through a superbly efficient infrastructure, embracing air, road and rail.

A self-drive tour encompassing three of its major cities will enable the visitor to experience most of these treasures: from Stockholm, to Karlstad and then Göteborg.

Stockholm

After arriving by air at Orlando airport, you either drive the 45 km to your place of accommodation in Stockholm, the national capital, by rental car, or take the Flygbuss (departing every 5 or 10 minutes) or the express train. There are numerous places to stay, from expensive hotels to youth hostels and B&B’s. But if you would like to experience something different, I can recommend a stay on the boat hostel, the af Chapman, a sailing ship built in 1888, a landmark of its own, and permanently moored just opposite from the Gamla Stan (Old Town). While enjoying our breakfast on its deck, we had a clear view of the magnificent Royal Palace just across the water flowing by.
 

I fully agree with many who describe Stockholm as one of the worlds most beautiful cities. It is built on 14 islands where the Mälaren lake empties on the east coast into the Baltic sea. The archipelago has about 24 000 rocky islands.  Therefore there are large expanses of open water and plenty of waterways, utilized by yachts, ferries or luxury cruise liners, whilst broad, bustling boulevards lined with elegant buildings, next to twisting medieval streets and skyscrapers, reflect in the blue water.

A walk along the narrow, cobbled streets of the Gamla Stan, with its superbly preserved old buildings, transports you back to medieval times. In the 15th-century Gothic cathedral, Storkyrkan (Great Church) Swedish kings were crowned until 1907. A few yards to the rear of Storkyrkan you will reach the marvelously atmospheric square Stortorget, with magnificent old merchant’s houses. From here, two small blocks away, passing ancient buildings, you will find the Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace), the worlds largest palace (608 rooms) still in use. This magnificent granite edifice was completed in 1760, and houses the crown jewels in its Skattkammaren (the Treasury). The palace, with two floors of royal pomp, 18th- and 19th-century furnishings, and the Hall of State, is open to the public during certain hours. The spectacular Changing of the Guard, which we witnessed, takes place in the outer courtyard at 12:10 pm daily June to August.

The Stockholm Card, which covers al sorts of transport (the most useful mode is the underground Stockholm Metro), and almost all sightseeing needs in the city, can be bought at tourist offices and larger museums. It is also possible to see most of the city by walking, but free hop-on hop-of buses run regularly.

Karlstad

From Stockholm, take the E18 west to Karlstad, about 270 km away. This route will take you through central Sweden’s scenic countryside of lakes, dense forests, with typical farmsteads, villages and towns along the way. Be on the lookout for signs indicating interesting historical sites, such as the excellent Anundshög, the ancient cult site and largest tumulus in Sweden, 6 km north-east of the city Västeras. Just 36 km from Karlstad is Kristinehamn, where Saxe Borg, a reconstructed medieval farm, is worthwhile to see.

Karlstad is the major transport hub for west-central Sweden, and the gateway to the region called Värmland, a part of the country with a timeless quality to it, favoured by artists.

The Nobel Prize-winning novelist, Selma Lagerlöff was born here. It is situated on the northern shore of Sweden’s largest lake, Vänern, on an island in the Klarälven (Klara river) delta, with suburbs spreading on to the mainland. Founded in 1684 as a town called Tingvalla, its name was later changed in honour of King Karl IX. After a fire in 1865 it was totally rebuilt. The longest stone bridge in Sweden - 168 m - the Gamla Stenbron, however still stands.

At the tourist office at the Conference Centre, the latest information on both town and country will be found. Interesting is the Mariebergsskogen Leisure Park, next to the water, comprising an open-air museum, a new naturum, an animal park, a bird-watching tower, a wind-powered sawmill and a water mill. The Värmlands Museum displays the local history and culture from the Stone Age to present times.
 


 

Accommodation is freely available in Karlstad. The Scandic Hotel can be recommended. A walk along the banks of the quietly flowing waters of the Klarälven, with breathtaking views of the reflections of the colourful houses (with golden ochre as one of the traditional shades) across the river, brings you to the city centre.

Göteborg


From Karlstad you first travel along the E18 west, and then south along the scenic Route 45 hugging the western side of Lake Vänern. Forestry is the main activity in this region. Since it is only about 255 km to Göteborg, take the time to discover the beautiful scenery of this lake-side drive.

The busy port, Göteborg, is Sweden’s second largest city and most important industrial and commercial centre. The first car built by Volvo (meaning “I roll” in Latin) rolled from the production line here in 1927, and now its one of Sweden’s largest companies (although it has been taken over by Ford a few years ago).

This is an elegant and friendly city. The Kungsportsavenyn, mostly just called the Avenyn (the Avenue), is the heart of the city, a 60 feet wide, tree-lined boulevard that links the cultural heart Götaplatzen, with the main commercial area. Restaurants, street cafes, boutiques, theatres and galleries abound. Start your walk along the Avenyn from the Götaplatzen, dominated by Carl Mille’s colossal statue of Poseidon, clutching a shark in his right hand. Have something to eat or to drink at one of the side-walk cafes, where musicians usually performs, and savour the atmosphere of this vibrant city. Just southeast of the Avenyn is the Liseberg Amusement Park, a focal point since 1920, and Sweden’s top tourist attraction with around 3 million visitors each year.
 

It is possible to walk to almost any place of interest. However, buying a Göteborg Card gives you unlimited bus and tram travel, free entry into the Liseberg and all the city museums, free car parking and boat excursions. An interesting way of seeing the city is by way of the vintage trams making their way noisily from Liseberg to the Old Town, with its tightly gridded streets, lined with impressive facades and interesting foodmarkets. A popular way to also acquaint yourself with the city’s historical sites is to take a ride on a padden boat through the canal and harbour.

What has been mentioned in this short article, is just a sample of what is to be experienced by way of the proposed itinerary of about 6 days taking you through a large, beautiful and interesting part of Sweden. Should you depart from Göteborg by air, it will be from the Landvetter Airport, 25 km east of the city.

- Manie Wolvaardt

 

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