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Workplace of GAUDI and DALI
Catalonia, situated in the north-eastern corner of
the Iberian Peninsula, occupies about six percent of Spain. This
region differs a great deal from the rest of the country. It has its
own distinct culture, cuisine, art and architectural contribution
towards a Spanish way of life. The Catalans have always been great
seafarers, merchants and industrialists.
Two well-known descendents from this region are the modernistic
architect, Antoni Gaudi, and the surrealistic artist, Salvador Dali.
Both were gifted with uncommon sensitivity: both were great
observers of nature, and the aspirations and dreams of their society
were included in their peculiar, individualistic work.
Despite the many similarities, they never met. They shared neither
an age or artistic movement, and were as different in their approach
towards life as can be: Gaudi, the modest, timid bachelor and highly
religious who hardly ever set foot outside Catalonia; and Dali, the
ego-eccentric cosmopolitan genius, who extensively travelled abroad,
with an avant-garde artistic approach.
Yet, the work of these two Catalan artists shares a clear interface:
a comparison reveals many similarities. Some interesting aspects
will be high-lighted within context later on.
SITGES
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PROMENADE
AT SITGES |
This
cosmopolitan beach resort has long attracted a different kind of
tourist, ever since it became the meeting place for a group of
modernist painters. During February, the extravagant carnival
parades of Rio deJaneiro, come to Sitges.
Lively bars and sidewalk restaurants line the seafront at this
colourful sea resort, south of Barcelona. The setting is
magnificent, a succession of small beaches in the shadow of LaPunta, a rocky bluff overlooking the harbour. The skyline is
dominated by the 16th century parish church, reached
by a flight of steps from the palm-lined promenade.
We were fortunate to stay at the LaSanta Maria, with our room
overlooking the promenade-beachfront. On the balcony, we could sip
cold local Alella white wine, and watch the sun set over the calm
Mediterranean sea. |
MONISTROL DE MONTSERRAT
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Montserrat, some 100 kilometres
outside Barcelona, is dear to the Spanish; because of its unique
natural environment, as well as the presence of the religious
centre as monastery. Prominent, visible from far away,
obelisk-like granite pinnacles reach for the sky, at times
draped in a cloud garment.
Although we decided to drive up
the meandering road, it may have been more convenient to use the
recently completed rail system, TransMontserrat, connecting the
base station with the monastery. With the rack railway you
discover spectacular mountain views, and eventually the Santa
Cova Funicular will take you to the place where the Virgin is
said to have appeared. You will also have the opportunity to
admire the Rosari Monumental, a sculpture group with works by
artists such as Gaudi and Llimona. |
MONTSERRAT MONASTERY |
Unfortunately, this pilgrimage has
now also become a major tourist attraction, drawing the crowds and
resulting in traffic congestions, noise and souvenir shops.
A tour of the vineyards of Penedes,
after a visit to Montserrat, is a good way to complete a day’s
itinerary to this region. The town of Sant Sadurni D’Anoia, is the
home of cava, Catalonia’s sparkling wine.
FIGUERES
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EXTERNAL
FAÇADE OF TEATRE-MUSEU DALI |
Figueres is home to
TEATRE-MUSEU DALI, next to the well-known Guggenheim Museum in
New York, the world’s most visited museum. This largest
surrealistic object in the world, occupies the building of a
former 19th century municipal theatre. Destroyed at
the end of the Spanish Civil War, Salvador Dali decided to
create his museum in the existing construction:
“Where, if
not in my own city, should the most extravagant and solid
examples of my art remain, where else then?”
A visit is a well worth
experience. Even if your are not interested in art per se, the
originality and almost bizarre humour with which all objects are
exhibited, confronts you with the uniqueness and eccentric ways
of this controversial artist: “The only difference between me
and a madman is that I’m not mad. The madman thinks he is sane.
I know I am mad.” |
GIRONA
Girona is the perfect Catalan town,
blending ancient dignity with modern style. This handsome, little,
old town resembles much of Venice, especially the pastel-coloured
houses that were built to replace the damaged sections of the city
walls in the 19th century. Behind them, in the old town,
the Rambla de la Libertat is lined with busy shops and street cafes
in pedestrian cobbled streets.
CADAQUES
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Spain’s easternmost coastal
town still has all of the whitewashed, floral charm, that
converted this one-time fishing village into an international
artists’ haunt in the early part of the previous century. In the
early 60’s, it was dubbed the St Tropez of Spain, largely
because of the young crowd that sought out Salvador Dali in
nearby Port Lligat. Today, his private house-museum is open to
the public.
Along the street on the waters’
edge, many little restaurants are found during the high season.
The romantic Hotel Llane Petit is nestled amidst the harsh, yet
quiet landscape, caressed by the waves of the Mar Mediterrania. |
SUNSET
OVER CADAQUES BAY |
BARCELONA
Set between the mountain and the
sea, which still today play an integral part in city life, Barcelona
is a rare city, a patch-work of distinctive districts telling the
story of its growth from a medieval core to the 19th
century expansion, and today’s ultra-modern skyline with Jahn’s
“Bullet Building”, as well as the towers at Tibidabo and Montjuic.
Barcelona is one of the great
Mediterranean cities. On every visit, one is astounded by both the
diversity and cosmopolitan flair. During our recent visit, we hopped
on an open-deck city tour, and yet again, saw many new destinations
and places worth seeing. But still today, the numerous works of the
Catalan architect, Antoni Gaudi, remain an inexhaustible
manifestation of the genius touch of this great master. One remains
astonished at every visit by his focus on detail and perfection of
design. The Sagrada Familia, Europe’s most unconventional church,
nears completion and is an emblem of a city that likes to think of
itself as individualistic. Each and every example of Gaudi’s
architecture embodies the greatness of this once almost unknown
architect of the city.
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THE GÜELL
WINE CELLARS
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The enormous success of the 1992
Olympic Games, staged in the Parc de Montjuic, confirmed the fact
that Barcelona is not only a rival for the capital of Madrid, but
also considers itself on a par with the greatest European cities.
The Barri Gotic is the true
heart of Barcelona. Bordered by LaRambla on the western side,
this historic section of the city is dominated by the Gothic
Cathedral, dating back to the 13th century. At the
Placa de Sant Jaume, one can browse through the many artists’
exhibitions of original pieces, whilst newsstands, caged bird
and flower stalls, tarot readers, musicians and mime artists
throng the wide, tree-shaded central walkway, LaRambla.
The Hotel Gaudi, opposite the
Palau Guell by Gaudi, offers ideal tourist accommodation at a
reasonable rate. The location in Nou dela Rambla, just off the
buzzling LaRambla, is central and yet not too noisy. Another
option would be the Hotel Meson Castilla, situated just off the
Rambla near Placa Catalunya. |
Near the Placa Reial, a wall of
roasting chickens announces one of Barcelona’s well-known local
restaurants, serving typical Catalonian cuisine. The walls are hung
with azulejos and photos of bullfighters. House specialities
are suquillo de pescadores (an assortment of fish fried in
oil and butter and added to a sauce), paella, mejillones
(mussels), and of course, caracoles (snails).
The Catalans have a reputation for
being serious, conservative and businesslike in comparison with the
Flamboyance of their Spanish neighbours. However, they can also
throw a good party, as witnessed during a typical Catalan festival.
- Johann & Monique |
