Two Citadels in Southern France:  Carcassonne & Collioure 

Like so many examples of fortified towns, Carcassonne lies embedded on a hill, its 52 towers guarding over the surrounding cultivated agricultural plains of vines and lavender. In a distance to the south, the snow-capped Pyrenees remind you of your orientation to the rest of the country.

We were fortunate enough to have stayed in a small pensione-like hotel, the Le Donjon, situated right in the centre of the walled pedestrianised town, La Cite. When entering by car through the arched gateway, the Porte Narbonnaise, you are allowed to offload your luggage right at the doorstep of the old stone building, after which you have to remove your vehicle to a public parking lot elsewhere. But this is one of the main reasons why the old-time ambience has remained: only people on foot during daytime, and then after the last tourist bus has left, the narrow cobblestone streets are yours to wander and enjoy and to drink of the many legends each building and alley has to share.

To the one side of the town, the fortified castle, with its ten watch towers, guard the gate entrance, and to the far other end of the meandering alleys, lies the beautiful cathedral with Gothic buttresses and bell tower.

En route, whenever your feet become tired, you can stop at various small town squares, and sip a glass of cold Chablis white wine under age old oak trees. These little bistros, like the Auberge Dame Carcas on Place du Chateau, are without any pretension, and share their generous hospitality through their traditional fine cuisine and popular wines. To purchase some of the region’s local Corbieres wines, the Caveau des Vins in the vaulted Tour du Treseau has an excellent selection.

During the first two weeks in August, the Cite en Scene Medieval Festival takes place as a display of  colourful troubadours, tightrope walkers, fireworks, laser, xenon and enhanced sound, unique to Europe.

After a rewarding time in Carcassonne, we left the terracotta tiled roofs and maze of narrow streets behind us and drove south eastwards on roads off the beaten track through the Pyrenees-Orientales region of mountains, cascading water streams and dense forests.

To have a trip of your life, arrive early for the best seats in the carriages of Le Petit Train Jaune which winds its way on narrow-gauge tracks through gorges and across towering viaducts up into the Cerdagne, stopping at small mountain stations along the way. On route to the sea, Peyrepertuse is one of the most remote, and difficult to get to Cathar Castles in the Roussillon region.

Nestling by the Mediterranean against the backdrop of the foothills of the Alberes range, you will find the delightful little fishing port, Collioure, whose vibrant colours were immortalised by the artists Braque and Matisse.

Narrow cobbled streets, now crowded with boutique galleries and souvenir shops, lead back from its much-painted harbour and the small Eglise Notre-Dame-des-Anges whose tower, has a small pink dome, was once a lighthouse. Along the quay, colourful Catalan fishing boats tie up to deposit their daily catch, mainly anchovies for which the town is renowned. A visit to the anchovy salting works next-door is worth the time.

We stayed at a small hotel in a quiet position behind the harbour, called L’Hostellerie des Templiers. Jojo Pous and his family also run the popular Les Templiers restaurant-museum, overlooking the harbour and Chateau Royal, famous for its 2000 paintings which almost cover the restaurant walls from cellar to attic. Jojo’s father welcomed his artist friends, painters and sculptors, and offered them accommodation in exchange for a painting or drawing. His illustrious guests included Matisse, Dali, Picasso and Maillol. Even the guestbook is filled with watercolours and sketches. Lunch on the pergola-terrace, especially the fruits del mare, marinated anchovies or tapas, can be rounded off by a Banyuls dessert wine.