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In the Footsteps of the Man from LaMancha |
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We had the privilege
to share a week with our good friends, At and Riana, in Spain during
the first week of November. We decided to fly into Spain’s capital,
rent a car and focus on the region Castilla-LaMancha,
south-east of Madrid. This region is known for its olive trees, its
good red wines, its mountain villages and the man from LaMancha, Don
Quixote.
This region’s
brilliantly sunlit, wide horizons are one of the classic images of
Spain. Rarely visited by tourists, the region boasts great, scenic
mountain ranges, dramatic gorges and the two jewel like medieval
fortified villages of
Toledo and
Cuénca.
LaMancha’s empty
beauty, its windmills and medieval castles, silhouetted above the
Spanish plains, was immortalized by the classic work of Cervantes,
in Don Quixote’s epic adventures.
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After clearing the friendly customs at Barajas
Airport, we drove the short distance to
Toledo,
on the banks of Rio Tajo. We stayed at an absolute
jewel, the former archbishop’s summer home, Hostal
del Cardinal. Its convenient location, just outside the medieval
pedestrian town’s walls, makes it an extremely popular venue.
Our rooms overlooked the secluded enclosed quiet garden, with
ferns and water fountains.
Behind the old walls lies much evidence of the city’s rich
history. Although out of season and still lovely autumn days,
Toledo remains crowded by backpackers and tour groups,
especially on weekends.
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Fortunately, as is the situation with most historic pedestrian towns
in central Europe, soon after the tour busses leave at dusk, the town
transforms into a different venue where locals meet at street
bistros and bars, discussing the day over some drinks, tapas and
local olives.
The El Greco museum, Alcazar and Cathedral, where we witnessed a
local wedding, as well as the meandering cobbled streets, all
contributed to wonderful memories of this timeless town, dating back
to Roman times BC.
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Shortly after a
good breakfast, with a selection of salamis, pan (bread) and
fruit, we left for Aranjuez, summer palace and
former retreat of the Royal family of Spain. The vistas and
tree-lined streets, as well as the palace, resemble very much
the Palace of Versailles, outside Paris.
Our next stop was
the mountain village of Cuenca, with its
intriguing Casas Colgadas, or hanging houses, built in the late
14th century as a summer residence for the Royal Family. Today
the old quarter of the town, dominated by the Cathedral on Plaza
Mayor, has been designated a World Heritage Site.
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The picturesque
old town sits astride a steeply sided spur, which drops
precipitously on either side to deep gorges of the Jucar and
Huecar rivers. Around the Moorish town’s narrow, winding streets
grew the Gothic and Renaissance city.
The Posada de San José is situated in the heart of Medieval
Cuenca, overlooking the Huécar River gorge. Antonio and his
Canadian wife, Jennifer, have run this pension as a family
concern for the past 20 years.
The popular Ruta Turistica Hoz del Huécar leads you along the
gorges and mountains of Sierra de Valdecabras on a less
travelled scenic route to Teruel. |
As
we travelled east, the landscape turned into mountainous terrain,
with a definite drop in temperature. The road was obviously off the
beaten track with no tourist buses in sight – only an unexpected
local farmer on a worn-down tractor speeding around the blind bends!
Late afternoon we reached our destination, Mirambel. A
rural village, fascinating to stroll around with only one cobbled
street, a well-lit Cathedral and the Fonda Guimera.
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In a small
gloomy public bar, which also serves as reception, we had some
local wine with locals who could not understand a word of
English. With a mini tourist dictionary, we soon communicated in
broken Spanish: Vino tinto por favor! Dinner
(simple home-cooking minestrone and beef steak) was served at
nine the evening, and we were the only guests for the night. The
cost per room: only 28 Euro including breakfast! And overlooking
the terracotta roofs and the mountains beyond with its own
little terrace!
The
countryside is magnificent, reminiscent of the Yorkshire Dales
and worth the detour.
Nearby is Morella, a fascinating hill town, still
protected by the circular defensive walls. Very similar to
Szentendre in Hungary and Groznjan in Croatia, throughout the
year a calendar of events is staged in this medieval town: music
festivals, wine festivals and costume parades. |
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Despite language
difficulties, especially in small non-tourist rural towns, we
experienced the local Spanish people as very friendly and always
prepared to assist you. The cost of accommodation, in general,
is reasonable.
And
the regional wines are interesting cultivars, both white and
red. Whites are the Chardonnays and Parellada from Catalunya,
and Tempranillo, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine region
of LaMancha is the world’s largest expanse of vineyards. We
bought our wine in supermercados, incredible delicious olives,
queso (cheese) and jamon (ham) in deli-shops where locals buy,
and fresh bread rolls (pan) at the bakery. Lunch time was a stop
somewhere along the scenic routes.
- Johann Beukes
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