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Victoria Falls

   

“the smoke that thunders”

During November we had the opportunity to visit Zimbabwe and the Victoria Falls again.

It has been more than 40 years ago that I, as a young schoolboy, was privileged to travel by train to the falls on a school tour.

Much has since changed in terms of luxury accommodation and side shows, but the natural beauty of the falls still remains as one of the three magnificent wonders, if compared with the Niagara Falls bordering the USA and Canada, and the Iguazu Falls of Argentina and Brazil.

We flew into the town of Victoria Falls with BA / Comair and immediately understand why BA is the official airline of the Springbok Rugby Team : friendly and spontaneous air hostesses, good service and a comfortable one and a half hours flight.

The stay at the Vic Falls Safari Lodge is highly recommended : rooms with a fantastic view on the Zambezi National Park, an outdoor dining / breakfast room overlooking a permanent nearby waterhole, where we spotted elephant and a herd of buffalo one evening and during breakfast a full grown Kudu bull with some twelve young bulls.

The late afternoon sundowner cruise aboard the Queen of the Zambezi offered us the opportunity to experience some rare finds :  a family quarrel between dad and youngster Hippo, as well as the elephant family of three crossing the river in a swimming mode with only their trumpets visible like submarine periscopes above the water.

   

The highlight however was the 30 minute view of the falls from the air in a microlight fixed wing two seater. Seated next to Wilfred, an ex air force pilot, and experiencing, as free as a bird, this awesome wonder of gorges and falls and clouds of spray and a rainbow connecting Zimbabwe with Zambia, is an experience one would never forget.

“Shongwe” is the name the Tokaleya people, who still live there, gave the falls. The Ndebele referred to them as “Amanza Thunquayo” or water rising as smoke, while the Kololo called them “Mosi oa Tunya” (the smoke that thunders).

   

We were all impressed by the friendly local people, each one trying to sell “his brother’s” piece of art, varying from wooden animals, masks, symbolic weapons, soapstone figures and faces, wire objects and fruit baskets, musical instruments like drums and marimbas. The current state of the country’s economy with one South African Rand equal to 450 Zim Dollars, does not assist these young entrepreneurs on the street. Zim Dollars are traded for US Dollars unlawfully at double the official exchange rate, and very little love is lost for their president.

A visit to the Falls should also include a visit to a traditional open-air feast in the Boma : Ostrich kebabs, Warthog steaks, Kariba bream, Kudu potjie, Crocodile tail and roasted Mopani worms are all served as delicacies.

For the adrenaline junkies, Kiwi Extreme offers bungee-jumping off the Vic Falls Bridge (111 metre jump), Shearwater arrange half day white river rafting experiences and a jet boat does the six rapids, downstream in the gorges.

A weekend breakaway to the Falls is both affordable and highly recommended : the hospitality of the local people is an open invitation to tourists, the facilities cater for all tastes and the world heritage site of river, falls and nature reserve highlights this wonder of Africa...

- Johann Beukes

 

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