It is interesting to note that, despite the technological barriers of globalisation we cross, we are often confronted by international terrorism, pandemic diseases and natural disasters. The international economic crisis is claiming its toll on travel; furthermore every travel experience is preceded by intricate hassles to obtain the right visa, decide which travel insurance is adequate and know what connecting time is sufficient at which international airports.

The internet has a huge source of travel information: specials on air tickets, cheap beds, unknown budget car rentals and columns of entertainment to choose from in almost any city in the world.

• But do you realise that on most low cost carriers you now have to pay for luggage, And the price advertised, as a so called special, excludes taxes, which sometimes exceeds the actual advertised ticket price by three times?
• Do you know the actual location of the hotel selling those special rates, or is it perhaps, but unfortunately opposite a disco or brothel? And do you know the hotel’s cancellation policy, should you be forced to change your arrangements?
• After you have left the car rental station, you experience engine trouble, and find that the rental company does not have branches elsewhere in the specific country.
• Or have you purchased show tickets, only to find that the seats are not where you thought it to be?

Travel has become, as many other businesses, highly specialised. Everybody wants to return from a trip abroad with wonderful memories and special dreams that have come to light. Let the professionals assist you with your detailed itineraries, to the likes of first hand travel advice based on personal experiences:

• staying at a family-owned ten room pensione on a small island in the Maggiore Lake
• experience country cuisine in the Ardennes forested region
• visit the artist’s towns Monschau, Szentendre and Motovin in three different countries
• choose from over 400 different beers in a pub in Gent
• discover the scenic back routes of the Salzkammergut with detailed maps
• enjoy an afternoon cano paddle on the deepblue mirror waters of Lake Morraine
• sip some quality wines in the Maipo Valley in Chile

We @ SURE ETNIQUE TRAVEL have distinguished ourselves as, not yet another travel agency, but rather as a group of dedicated people who love to share their personal travel experiences with you. Come. Visit our extensive travel information centre!
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        -  Johann  Beukes

Where there is no faith in the future
There is no power in the present

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It is an early Wednesday morning in February in the land that sings LATVIA; it is freezing cold in the city, divided by the frozen mirror-like Daugava River with maximum temperatures not even above zero degrees. It snowed most of the night. You look down and see the deep sharp footprint edges in the fresh snow. Some of the age old cobblestones are totally covered by this white blanket;

If you look up, you will see the most impressive array of Art Nouveau architecture in the world, displayed against the grey cloudy sky, to the enthusiastic traveller. Yes, you are not somewhere in Germany, renowned for its Jugendstil movement, but in the Baltic capital of Latvia, Riga. This collection of Art Nouveau buildings has been recognised by UNESCO as unparalleled anywhere in the world. And the good news for the architecture lover is that it is all concentrated in the two streets Elizabêtes and Alberta iela, within walking distance from the Old City Vecríga.

I was met with a maximum temperature of minus 3 degrees Celsius, but the cold climate is balanced with the very special warmth of its people: especially the younger generation of Latvians who are friendly and will always greet you with confidence in fluent articulated English.

The three Baltic States of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania today form a soft transition between the Scandinavian countries and old Russia: heritage of a rich architecture and applied arts since the 1800’s. Latvia is tugged in between Estonia to the north and Lithuania to the south, with its capital nestled in a natural harbour at the mouth of the River Daugava.

Since end of 2007, Latvia is part of the Schengen zone of European nations and no longer operates passport checkpoints on its land borders with Estonia and Lithuania. The official currency is the Lat (Ls = R18.00) and not the Euro as elsewhere in Schengen Countries. The international airport (lidosta), is some 13 kilometres southwest of Riga city centre.

Most of the major European Airlines have daily flights to Riga. The official airline, Air Baltic, serves all three Baltic States and links them to the rest of Europe on numerous flights daily. Upon arrival, a queue of eager taxis is waiting outside the terminal building at a one way fare into town of 10Ls. The Airport Shuttle bus stops at different hotels for 3 Ls.

A neatly dressed young man Renats, met me at the airport and transferred me in a late model German car to the Ainavas Boutique Hotel in a converted 15^th century warehouse, with well-maintained vaulted stone walls somewhere in a quiet back street of Vecríga.

A small personalised hotel, with each of the 22 rooms individually decorated, according to the colours, tones and moods of the beautiful Baltic landscape; thus the name Ainavas, meaning landscape to the Latvian people. The two young front-desk girls, Inge and Ilze, radiate a warmth of friendliness towards their guests, and promote their city as ambassadors with adequate knowledge in fluently spoken English: all to give recognition to the Mountain Ash branch as logo and symbolic guardian of well-being at home according to Latvian folklore.

On route, Renats tells me of the years of turmoil, preceding the first free elections, mid 1993. But as recently as mid-January, a so called peaceful anti-government demonstration turned violent and eventually caused mayhem on Dome Square.

Despite the fact that most of Old Russian symbols have been removed since independence, one will still find, as elsewhere in perestroika, newly declared independence countries, beacons reminding the new generation of the days of suffering and oppression. But in sharp contrast, the Freedom Monument, with
Milda, the lady holding the three golden stars, is a symbol of the continuous struggle, and was built with money, donated by the people of Latvia in 1935. The snow that fell during the night had melted and forms small water ponds on the hard surface of Brivibas iela; in these quiet water mirrors  the clear reflection of Milda echoes a story of hope for all to sense the vibrancy of a new Latvia.
Another most moving memorial in Riga, unveiled some eight years ago, is situated outside the town centre, within the dense Bikernieku forest area: the Holocaust Memorial. A footpath leads from the busy road, under a white concrete arch, revealing a field of jagged stones huddled together in sections, each inscribed with the name of the European city the Jewish victims derived from. It is a profoundly beautiful piece of plain-air sculpture, with the central feature an angular concrete canopy covering a black slab, on which an inscription appears in four languages: Oh earth, cover not my blood, and let my cry have no place.

The best place to orient you within the maze of many zigzag alleys is to use the elevator reaching the top of the steeple of the St Peters Church, not far from my hotel. It has been rebuilt several times; the last completed as recently as 1973; soon afterwards the huge cock was removed and is now exhibited in the church foyer. Fantastic panoramic views await you from the enclosed platform some 125 meters high above the red tiled roofs of old Riga. Unfortunately the cold limits your stay while enjoying all the vistas from above.

Another yellow Art Nouveau building is home to the popular image of Riga: two feline statues. The story goes that a merchant, who owned the building, was refused entry to the great guild because he was Latvian and membership was reserved for Germans only. In retaliation, he put two statues of black cats – with arched backs and tails up – onto the roof, positioning them so that their backs faced the guildhall. After a lengthy court battle, the merchant eventually gained entry into the guild and turned the cats around.

The Latvians have a rich cultural history of the arts: literature of Pumpurs, classical music of Vitols, ballet by Godunov and Baryshnikov, painting by Rozentals and Eisenstein as film director.

The Doma Baznica (Dome Cathedral) has been hailed, for many years, to have the largest organ in the world. At noon on Wednesdays, an organ recital is performed by local artists. When I approached the Doma Laukums behind the Council Building, the massive sound of Händel’s music rang out over the old narrow alleys around the cathedral.

Once inside the Baroque space, one forgets all the bustle and pressures and for the next hour, I just relaxed and enjoyed Ilze Reine‘s command of the music. Noticeable is the fact that the listener mostly consists of laymen and young people, and not the normal expected cultured music audience.

But it is not only professionals who perform and live for their music; while strolling around in the heart of old town, numerous young students and old forgotten maestros give soul to their music, fighting the cold elements on a misty grey winter’s afternoon. Small groups of appreciative listeners are joined by a pariah cat or rock pigeons ransacking the freezing cobbles for a morsel of food.

Another interesting phenomenon are the groups of apparently auspicious ducks in the ice-covered park landscape of Basteikalnis, guarded by Milda in a distance. They have all locked themselves in as lords of the park; only one little pedestrian arched bridge links the zigzag lovers’ lanes across the now frozen stream. Thousands of locks with inscribed names and messages are intertwined on the handrails of this bridge telling many a story.

On my way back to the warmth of my cosy hotel room at the Ainanas, I spent some time browsing through some art shops in Teatra, Laipu and Vecpilsétas iela: Sematme art salon for amber, wood and silver novelties, NicePlace with the most original local handmade cards, toys and souvenirs, and ArtGocha, where the bronze works and paintings of Gocha Huskivadze, a young promising artist, are sold.

At the end of a full and soul-satisfying day, you have various options to unyoke yourself and relive the many faces of people, places and atmospheres you have experienced in the past ten hours:

Either at the Rigas MelniasBalsams Black Magic Bar, serving Riga Black Balsam drinks since 1752. You can taste this distinctive black bitter alcoholic liqueur in various coffees and chocolate drinks; they also sell various fancy cakes, cookies, tortes, cupcakes, candies, glazed plums and almonds, all with a chocolate finish and undertone. The décor is in an old world theme with chemist drawers and ornamental shelving to compliment the interior.

whether it was with Aleksandr on a reconnaissance tram ride to distant suburbs, and learning the history from him, or sensing art with Gocha, or discussing the politics with Renats, or dreaming the heavenly music of Ilze, I have decided to return soon to this magical city and its friendly people in the nearby future.

- Johann

No river in Western literature has through the ages captured the romantic more than the River Rhine – commencing with the epic poem, the Nibelungenlied, in High German from the Middle Ages, telling the saga of Siegfried who killed the dragon on the Dragenfells near today’s Bonn, and of the golden treasure which was thrown into the river. This was also the setting of Richard Wagner’s first opera Der Ring des Nibelungen, which opens and ends telling how three Rhinemaidens, living in the Rhine, protect this treasure buried underneath the waters.

Another legendary tale is that of how the beautiful maiden, Lorelei, sitting on a rock, through her entrancing songs lured the sailors of ships going by to a watery death on the treacherous rocks. Goethe’s journey down the Rhine in 1774 further enhanced the romanticism that is associated with the river.

With a length of 1320 km. the Rhine forms one of Europe’s most important waterways.  It has two sources, both in the Alps in Switzerland. The primary stream, called the Vorderhein, flows from a lake called Lai da Tuma, near the Oberalp Pass not far from Andermatt. The secondary source flows from a glacier at a peak called Rheinquellhorn, on the border with Italy. These two streams join at Reichenau near Chur. From here it is called the Alpenrhein, which flows into the Bodensee (Lake Constance) at Bregenz, on its way forming the border with Liechtenstein and Austria.

About 20 km. after flowing westwards out of the Bodensee it plunges over the Rhine Falls at Schaffhausen, before leaving Switzerland through Basel. From here its course takes it through or bordering France and Germany, and finally through the Netherlands to its mouth in the North Sea at Rotterdam. On its way a number of streams and rivers such as the Neckar, the Main and the Moselle join the main stream, contributing to its final average discharge of 2 200 cubic metres per second. 

The route over the Oberalp Pass down to Bregenz gives one a glimpse of the majestic, snowy mountain region from where the river originates. On the shores of the Bodensee there are a number of memorable cities and towns, like Rorschach, Romanshorn, and Konstanz, where I once visited their prestigious university. On another trip my wife ans I stayed in Romanshorn, from where ferries regularly travel to and from Frederickshaven on the opposite shore. The photos of the three fountains and the statue were taken here.

At another village, Güttingen, we came upon a knitting competition in which most of the inhabitants participated, breaking the world record for the longest continuous knitted scarf, namely 3 500 m!

A year ago we visited friends in Schaffhausen, whose house looks out over the river flowing quietly by. But just a few kilometers downstream it thunders over the 30 m high Rhine Falls – a most spectacular sight. My wife and I stood in awe, looking at a boat taking sight-seers to within drowning distance of one of the swirling cascades!

This is where travellers on scenic cruises gaze up in wonder at the many Middle Age castles towering above, amongst terraced vineyards covering the hills. And when you drive by car down from Mains to Koblenz on one side of the river, and back along the other side, you can stop and visit some of the castles or wander around in the quaint villages along the banks of the river, like Rüdesheim, Geisenheim, Bingen, Boppard and Goam.

We once pitched a tent in Geisenheim, a stone’s throw away from the river. Seeing the vessels continually cruising up- and downstream emphasizes the importance of this waterway in European history. At night you hear the duff-duff-duff of the barges going by; and sometimes you wish you were on one of the cruise vessels from which the dance music and laughter from the brightly lit decks, can be clearly heard.

After leaving Germany, the Rhine enters the low-lying Netherlands, which over the millennia were actually formed by the deposits of the delta of the Rhine. In the Netherlands the river splits into a number of smaller outlets, carrying different names, but the mouth of the Rhine is regarded as to be at Rotterdam.

Experiencing the natural beauty of the Rhine and some of the stretches through which it has carved its way, with the many historic castles along its banks, one begins to understand why this river today still draws a vast number of visitors looking for a romantic break-away.

- Manie Wolvaardt

The mysterious Afghan girl whose direct gaze has intrigued the West for so long is Sharbat Gula. She now lives in a remote region of Afghanistan with her husband and three young daughters. In January 2002, a National Geographic team returned to the Nasir Bagh refugee camp in Pakistan, where Sharbat Gula was originally photographed, to search for her.

They showed her picture around the still standing refugee camp near Peshawar where the photograph had been taken. She was identified through a series of contacts that led to her brother and husband, who agreed to ask her if she was willing to be interviewed. She had never seen her famous portrait before it was shown to her in January 2002.