Sure Etnique Travel Newsletter

*Two young girls rush passed us on their bicycles: laughing and singing. Touching wooden etchings, depicting the* Jesus Story, decorate the heavy solid doors. Walking into the small, almost cramped little room, Monique and I are intrigue by the simplicity of everything. Just a single corner window allows the somber early autumn light of mid August onto the bronze art objects on display. No special spotlights. No security gate, no alarms signaling an entrant, – even nobody in sight!



The studio of a sculptor, in Lukas Strasse in the south Bavarian village of Oberammergau, has much more to offer than only a display of art works – magical music, welcoming warmth, enshrouded emotion Hello! Guten Morgen! I endeavour to get a response from somewhere. Still no reaction, only the music … and then the figure of a grey-bearded man in his mid-seventies appears in the doorway in the darkest corner of the room. Ja, guten tag … Hermann. During a previous visit to Germany in 2008, we also visited this small village off the normal tourist beaten track. It is only every tenth year that crowds from all over the world gather here for the six-month duration of the Passion Play. Back then it was a bleak winter’s day. With great expectation we visited the studio of this renowned Bavarian sculpture, Hermann Schilcher, to purchase a very specific mural piece, displayed in the corner window. But the studio was locked and nobody responded to our urgent ringing of the door bell. The work of art, symbolising the Trinity of Father, Son and the Holy Spirit, a dove, was surely not destined for us then. And now, when looking around at the limited space of white walls, I again can not trace it anywhere. I feel a sense of disappointment, almost an emptiness which I am sure I also project towards him. I explain to Hermann the background of our visit now. His original almost emotionless face immediately changes into a warm smile of understanding. Nodding his head as if understanding my true enthusiasm, he mumbles some words in German.

I tell him of my childhood-dream of attending the Passion Play since my parents’ attendance of the 1960 performance. A new light sparks in his eyes; he invites me into his working studio, some steps down from where he emerged earlier. The rough hands move the chisels and hammers. Deeply grooved like branches of an old tree trunk, each finger tells a story. With diligent care he moves the many sketches and half completed moulds and wood from the work space to the wooden box in the corner of the room. And slowly he takes off a weathered cloth covering something. There, covered in a layer of old dust, he lifts up the bronze circular piece of art, of which we have dreamt so long … With a smile he comments: Normally I keep the last original casting of all my works of art, but this time I am prepared to let it go. I can sense your total passion to possess it! I experience the same feeling of excitement when scoring the first winning runs in a cricket match way back in secondary school! Exuberance! Joy! Fulfillment! You’ve mentioned the Passionsspiele of fifty years ago. You are aware of the fact that only those who were born in Oberammergau or lived here for at least twenty years, may perform in the Play. That year I was chosen to perform Jesus alternately with another young man from the town. Both the influence of my father, the sculptor, as well as those performances, inspired this work of art I love to call “Dreieinigkeit – drei Liebe”.

Hermann reaches out with the priceless piece in both hands. I take the inspiring bronze work of art and hold it close to my heart, knowing that we will never depart of it. The symbolism and the touching story are far too precious and personal! Walking out of this tiny heaven of art, and realising that I have really met a Jesus from Oberammergau, it is as if I hear the voices of an angels’ choir. And in the street in front of the studio, the same two young girls of the town are singing the chorus in the scene of Jesus and the children… - Johann Beukes

Imagine a country with a deep sapphire sea and fjord similar to the Geirangerfjorden of Norway, brilliant beaches like Mallorca, rugged peaks as dramatic as the Dolomite of northern Italy, deep meandering canyons like the Gorges of Verdon in Haute Provence, piazza’s almost as elegant as San Marco in Venice, and many an old fortified town as found in Greece and the Amalfi Coast. Squish it into an area the size of Wales, but with a distinct Mediterranean climate and you will understand what to expect when visiting Crna Gora, also known as Montenegro.

Tucked away between Croatia, Bosnia Hercegovina, Serbia and Albania, Montenegro offers four specific regions to the traveller: The almost one hundred kilometre long Adriatic coastline, offering five-star beach holidays at Budva, Sveti Stefan and Bar, Boka Kotorska Fjord with Kotor, the central region with the capital Podgorica and Lake Skadar National Park and the rural mountainous region of Durmitor, Kolasin, the Tara Canyon and Plav.

During 2006, after almost a century as part of Yugoslavia, this country reappeared on the map known as the State Union of Serbia and Montenegro, using the euro as currency. South African citizens have to apply for visas at the Serbian Embassy in Pretoria. Although Podgorica is served by a few European Airlines, Dubrovnik in Croatia, some 25 kilometres from the border, offers more regular flights from other European cities.

After spending the weekend in Dubrovnik, with its very special sights and atmosphere, we crossed the border between the two countries by car. Plan at least two to three hours in long queues and a possible luggage search.

Budva is a beautifully-restored town, with no vehicle access to the old walled-town district of Stari Grad. It is said that it dates back to the 5^th century BC of the Phoenician Age. It resembles Collioure on the Gulf of Lyon, with the emphasis on a pedestrian friendly environment.

Walking down the cobble-stone narrow pedestrian alleys, we eventually found our Hotel Astoria, tucked into a restored ancient two storey stone building. The idyllic sunset can be enjoyed from the roof terrace restaurant, serving cordon bleu cuisine. In a distance Budva, like Copenhagen, boasts its own little dancing mermaid on the rocks.

For all those who yearn for sun, sea and beaches, the Littoral Riviera has much to offer: almost like San Michel on the coast of Brittany, Sveti Stefan sits on a peninsula, linked to the mainland by a narrow strip of white beaches. The well-known nudist camp is next door at Crvena Glavica.

Travelling along the coast, one has to cross the dividing Rumija Mountain range to reach Lake Skadar, the largest Balkan’s lake. The endangered Dalmatian pelican nests here, and along with 256 other bird species, this is still recognised as the most important reserve for wetland birds in Europe.

Crossing the bridge over the narrowest section of the lake, you reach the capital of this small republic, Podgorica. It is never going to be Europe’s most “happening” capital, but if you can get past the sweltering summer temperatures and ugly concrete apartment blocks, you will find a pleasant little city with some interesting architecture, decent galleries and restaurants. The two most prominent landmarks in the city are the Hram Hristovog Vaskrsenja Orthodox church as well as the impressive and modern Millenium Bridge over the Moraça River.

On route to Kolasin, the hub of ski resorts in the Biogradska Gora National Park, we paused at the World Heritage Site of Monastir Ostrog. Resting in a cliff face some 900 metres above the forested Zeta valley, this gleaming white monastery attracts up to a million visitors annually. One can see it from afar rammed in the vertical cliff close to the place where the sides of the nearby mountains draw nearest. It is here that the Montenegrins blocked the passage between Niksiç and Podgorica on many occasions when they waged war against the Turks. For those on a special and personal pilgrimage, a hostel in the upper monastery provides accommodation for a mere one euro overnight.

Right in the north of Montenegro, the Durmitor National Park is bordered by river canyons of Tara, Susiça and Komarniça. This is also home to some secluded and popular Jezero’s or lakes, providing scenic day hikes. The locals, although very friendly and cooperative, do not understand English and communication for the independent traveller is therefore quite challenging. In this region, the most common means of local transport is still on horse back.

The sleepy town of Kolasin is a good vantage point to visit the northern mountainous region of Montenegro. An unexpected surprise awaits you when you arrive at the Bianca Resort & Spa, an eight-floor luxury accommodation, built in typical chalet-style with steep roofs. Plav and the breathtaking Plavsko Jezero deep-blue lake, sitting in the most eastern corridor with Albania, is a comfortable day’s excursion.

The Tara Canyon with vertical fall of 1300 metres from its Durmitor mountain tops to the narrow river far below, is the deepest in Europe and second only to the Grand Canyon in Arizona.

The impressive Tara Bridge, completed just as WWII was starting in 1940, spans the canyon. At the time it was the largest concrete arched vehicular bridge in Europe, with a length of 365 metres. In May 1942, the Partisan command gave the order to blow up this strategic crossing. The honour went to the original engineer, Lazar Jaukoviç, who planted the bomb that fortunately destroyed only one section of his beautiful creation. He was later captured by the Serb loyalists and executed on the remains of the bridge. When it was rebuilt in 1946, Jaukoviç’s bravery was acknowledged by a statue-plaque, that still today, on the one side, guards the bridge.

Our last destination was the UNESCO Heritage town of Kotor, before returning to Croatia. The narrow, winding pass between Cetinje and Kotor provides photographic opportunities of scenic vista beauty that not even the Furka Pass in Switzerland can offer. Nerve racking hairpin bends snake along the steep slopes overlooking the inland Gulf of Kotor. Huddled underneath the rocks of the towering Mount Lovçen, the ancient and well-restored town lies nestled in the furthest corner of the Boka Kotorska.

Kotor is one of those amazing places, so unique in its setting and history, that there is nothing like it anywhere in the world. The old town, enclosed by walls, is a muddle of constricted narrow alleys, each with its local cat proclaiming its domain and bordered with tall stone edifices and paved with multi-coloured slabs and uneven cobbles, which really only reveals its true beauty after a late afternoon down-pour.

The narrow lanes spread out in all directions, connecting the multitude of small squares in such a bewildering fashion that no map will really assist the inexperienced visitor. A better solution here is to get “lost”, finding your own way through layers of its history and discover your own interesting details and vistas: the unique dials on the clock tower, the multitude of pigeons “cleaning” the weathered square’s cobble stones and the single old fig tree, sharing many stories.

Montenegro, with its small population of only 650 000, is appealing for visits in all seasons, depending your personal expectations. Since its varied climate and geography, it offers a change of scenery and activities, all within only a couple of hours drive apart.

- Johann & Monique

Beste Johann en Tessa

Oberammergau - wat 'n wonderlike plek. Ek en Stella wil graag net baie, baie dankie sê vir die geleentheid wat julle ons gegee het om die Passiespele te gaan bywoon. Julle reëlings was uitstaande. Tussen jou en Tessa kon ons nie vir beter gevra het nie.

Alles het vlot verloop met die toer. Die hoogtepunt was, toe ons in Oberammergau in die teater kom, en ons het hierdie wonderlike sitplekke. Dit was 'n onvergeetlike ervaring en ons kan julle nie genoeg bedank nie vir die puik diens wat ons van Etnique gekry het.

Mag Etnique van krag tot krag gaan.

Vriendelike groete
Prof Johann & Stella van Staden – Fakulteit Opvoedkunde UVS

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Dear Tessa

Thank you for your professional service and assistance. Tessa, your name is on the lips of the travel public of Bloemfontein. Thanking you for all your care to ensuring everything run 100% smooth and you interest all the way to make sure we cope and things are still on track .That was a great contribution to a good night rest throughout the journey.

Enjoyed every minute and Peet enjoyed it MUCH more than he anticipated. He was actually a very good travel companion as he is extremely observant and I can just read a name from a pamphlet or map and he points it out right away.

Thanks again and I will come round some time

Regards
Adv Peet and Jolena van Rooyen – Bloemfontein

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Darling Tessa,

I wish to express my heartfelt gratitude for the professional and speedy service that you extended to Dr. Macheli and Mrs. Morakabi at OR Tambo during their predicament.

From the bottom of our hearts we appreciate all you did.

Thank you
Mamotonosi Lehema – Lesotho Revenue Authority Maseru

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Beste Roan

Baie dankie vir die spesiale reelings met ons gesinsverblyf by die Krugerhek Protea Lodge.

Ons het baie lekker gebly en jul reelings was perfek.

Thanx
Andre Venter en gesin - ITEC Bloemfontein

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Hi Tessa

Everything went well, thanks to you. Only one hiccup was a 2 hour delay in Dubai. I might be going to Germany at the end of November and hope there is a chance for a special in business class. Will talk to you when I have more information. Thanks again for the excellent service I received from you.

Regards
Prof Seef Pretorius - UFS

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Tessa

Ons is nou al amper twee maande terug na ons maand-lange besoek aan Europa. Baie dankie vir al jou geduld met ons 4 families se reisreëlings. Sonder jou hulp met die visums was ons dalk steeds hier. Toe ek die September nuusbrief lees het ek gedink aan ons vier gesinne se vrouens wat vir ses maande elke Donderdagoggend daar in Etnique tyd spandeer het om gidse te lees en paaie en roetes te beplan. Dit was heerlik om so tussen al die kundiges te sit en werk en as ons ‘n vraag gehad het was daar iemand wat dit kon beantwoord. Johann wat gereeld kom inloer het met raad , het baie gehelp. Die biblioteek is goed georganiseer en gidse en kaarte is baie maklik om te vind. Die boeke is in ‘n goeie toestand en daar is sowaar iets vir elkeen se smaak. Baie dankie vir jul gasvryheid terwyl ons daar gewerk en gedroom het oor ons vakansie. Die beplanning van die reis was net so ‘n opwindende deel van die reis as die ervaring self.

Sien julle weer.
Jan en Petria Smit – SM!T ARGITEKTE, Bloemfontein

• Classic Bolivia - 6 Nights from R10 270 pps
• Discover Toronto - 3 Nights from R4 130 pps
• Buenos Aires & El Calafate - 5 Nights from R4 805 pps

FAR EAST & AUSTRALASIA

• Essential Vietnam - 8 Nights from R15 260 pps
• Sizzling Singapore - 2 Nights from R2 040 pps
• Fantastic Kuala Lumpur - 3 Nights from R2 980 pps

AFRICA & INDIAN OCEAN ISLANDS

• Fordoun Hotel & Spa - KwaZulu Natal - 3 Nights from R3 930 pps
• Victoria Falls Safari Lodge - Zimbabwe - 2 Nights from R4 985 pps
• Marlin Lodge - Mozambique - 5 Nights from R19 235 pps

UK, EUROPE & RUSSIA

• Caviar and Snow - St Petersburg, Russia - 4 Nights from R8 190 pps
• Freedom of Scotland - 5 Nights from R3 230 pps
• Best of Prague - 3 Nights from R2 955 pps

CRUISES

• Cairns & Lizard Island Cruise - Coral Princess - 4 Nights from R13 670 pps
• Bahamas Cruise - Majesty of the Seas - 4 Nights from R1 990 pps
• Eastern Mediterranean Cruise - Celebrity Equinox - 11 Nights from R14 680 pps

• Bangkok & Koh Samui - 7 Nights from R14 680 pps
• Chaweng Regent Hotel, Koh Samui - 7 Nights from R14 480 pps
• Patong Beach Hotel, Phuket - 7 Nights from R11 760 pps

* Above packages valid for travel from 01 to 19 December 2010
Book and Pay by 30 October 2010

AFRICA & INDIAN OCEAN ISLANDS

• Chobe Marina Lodge - Botswana - 2 Nights from R7 590 pps
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• Fancourt Golf or Spa - 3 Nights from R4 598 pps

UK, EUROPE & RUSSIA

• Seefeld Ski Resort - Austria - 7 Nights from R5 415 pps
• London Festive Season - 4 Nights from R11 445 pps
• River Cruising in Russia - 11 Nights from R17 000 pps

THE AMERICAS

• Brazilian F1 Grand Prix - 4 Nights from R14 335 pps
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• Puno and Lake Titicaca - Peru - 2 Nights from R2 180 pps

CRUISES

• Iceland & Fjords Cruise - Azamara Journey - 12 Nights from R25 350 pps
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• Western Caribbean Cruise - Navigator of the Seas - 5 Nights from R3 528 pps


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