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A typical one
is the historically unique ancient oasis of Jericho in what is
now known as the West Bank. The sweet water of the spring
created the perfect centre around which one of the oldest
continually inhabited cities in the world developed.
Agricultural activities flourished, so that wheat and water
transformed the land into one “overflowing with milk and honey”.
Soon the city became the envy of peoples elsewhere, and it had
to be fortified with walls and towers. |
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Archaeological
excavations reveal that the site was already inhabited around 11
000 years ago (9 000 BC), and that the walls were built about 2
000 years later. The ancient centre of the city is situated on a
mound, which was surrounded by a vast earthen rampart with a
stone retaining wall of about five meters high. On top of the
retaining wall another wall was built, about two meters thick
and six to eight meters high, and on the crest of the embankment
another mud brick wall about 14 meters above ground level
outside the retaining wall. This is what the Israelites had to
conquer, according to Joshua. |
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What is really fascinating is that recent archaeological
discoveries reveal ample evidence that the mud brick city wall
really collapsed and was deposited at the base of the stone
retaining wall. (For those interested, see The walls of
Jericho. Archaeology confirms: they really DID come a-tumblin’
down
www.answeringenesis.org). |
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In the
millennia that followed fortifications were built around cities
all over the world. This continued until the late 17th
century, but thereafter the art of warfare developed in such a
way that walls no longer could keep the enemy out. During the 18th
and the 19th centuries many of them were removed,
because they blocked access to the expanding suburbs.
In many towns
and cities you will today find that the ring-roads encircling
the town centre, were built where the walls were taken down. But
most of the cities still have retained at least a fragment of
the original – sometimes a gateway, a tower or a section of the
wall, such as in Bath and Chester in England and
Wales, St Remy in France,
Coimbra
in
Portugal, Lier or Mechelen in Belgium …
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Castel deli’ Anguilla Umbria
Italy |
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But quite a
number of cities still have most of their city walls (almost)
complete. Out of them UNESCO has proclaimed 53 of them all over
the world as World Heritage Sites. Just to name a few of
them:
Assisi
and San Gimignano (Italy), Avignon
and
Carcassonne
(France), the
Old City of
Jerusalem,
Tallinn
(Estonia), Rhodes (Greece), etc.
It speaks for
itself that it is not possible to have first-hand experience of
all of these towns and cities. Therefore I have decided to
shortly concentrate on just four of them, which have impressed
me. Two of them are well-known (One is also a UNESCO heritage
site); the other two are small towns, but in their own really
worth a visit.
Fountain Square
San Gimignano Tuscany Italy |
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Toledo (Spain)
About 70 km.
south of Madrid lies
Toledo,
a city of about 80 000 inhabitants, capital of the province of
Toledo. UNESCO declared it a World Heritage site in 1986 due to
its cultural heritage and architectural importance.
After Spain was
conquered by the Visigoths, Toledo became the capital of Spain
in 513. In the 7th century it was also the seat of
the Church of Spain. Over the centuries Arabs, Jews and
Christians lived here side by side, so that the city became a
site where remarkable artistic development took place, such as
Hispano-Moorish art of great richness. One of the famous artists
who lived here, was the painter, El Greco. |
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Different
styles of architecture are to be seen everywhere. In its
motivation for declaring the city a World Heritage site, The
Organization of World Heritage Sites states: “The city of
Toledo in its entirety represents a unique artistic achievement
and an uninterrupted succession of remarkable achievements, from
Visigothic churches to the Baroque ensembles of the 18th
century” (http://www.ovpm.org/en/spain/toledo).
When nearing Toledo by car, you can see the old city high up on
a hill-top from afar, with majestic buildings towering above,
such as the Gothic Cathedral (Built from1226 – 1493),
considered to be one of the finest examples of Gothic
architecture in Europe, as well as the Alcazar (Arabicized
Latin for palace-castle). |
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Toledo is surrounded on three sides (east, south and west) by a
bend of the Tagus River, whilst massive walls prohibit entry at
places where the city could otherwise be easily reached. After
you’ve parked your car in the parking lot down below, you have
to walk up a steep slope to enter the city through impressive
gates in its massive surrounding walls, such as the Puerto
del Sol (Gate of the Sun) or the Puerto Bisagra.
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For those who
do not want to tackle the incline, an escalator can be taken to
the centre of the old town. The streets in the historic centre
are very narrow, and not recommended to travel through by car!
In this labyrinth you will find a plethora of little churches,
mosques and synagogues.
Besides the
impressive sights, Toledo is famous for its handcrafts, such as
the fine swords known throughout the world, its ceramic-ware and
embroidery, but also for its gastronomy consisting of fresh
products from the region, like game, cheese, the home-grown
wines and the marzipan from Arabic origin. I would recommend an
overnight stay in Toledo, if one really wants to experience the
magic of this special walled city. |
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Chester (England)
Chester
is a city on the western border of England, close to Wales, an
appropriate place to stay over, should you be on your way to
Ireland, to board the ferry at Holyhead the next morning.
According to the latest census it is home to about 77 000
inhabitants.
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Chester is
often referred to as the best preserved medieval city in
England, although many buildings date from the Victorian era. It
claims to have the most complete city walls in the United
Kingdom, forming an almost complete circuit of about 3 km long.
The only breaks in the walls are for entrances to car parks or
for approach roads to the inner city. According to the grading
system for walls they are listed as Grade I, and are also
registered as a Scheduled Ancient Monument.
Chester was
founded by the Romans around 70 AD as a fortress. Walls
consisting of wood and earth palisades were erected, but
replaced by stone walls between the 1st and 3rd
century. These were extended later on towards the River Dee,
flowing close by, also enclosing the Chester Castle, built
around 1070. |
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Different
sieges of the city resulted in extensive damage to the ramparts,
but this was repaired and renovated. Today the walls are a
popular walking circuit, from where you have a fine view over
the city, the river and the surrounding countryside. A famous
sight is the Eastgate Clock, added in 1899, commemorating
the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria.
The most
interesting sights of the medieval part of the city are the
Rows and the so-called black-and-white architecture.
The Rows are buildings consisting of dwellings and shops on two
storeys. Those on the ground floor are often below street level,
so that you have to enter them by way of steps. Those on the
second floor are entered from a continuous walkway, with
railings overlooking the street. The many black-and-white
buildings were erected in Victorian times.
Other prominent
sights within the city centre are the cathedral in Gothic
style, the
Chester Castle,
and the town hall. The
Grosvenor
Museum
includes Roman tombstones and an art gallery. Tourists will find
information at the town hall, as well as at the Chester Visitor
Centre. |
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Murten
(Switzerland)
Murten (The
German form of the French Morat) is a small town situated
between Bern and Neuchâtel, and is the capital of the Lake
District of the canton of Fribourg. I first visited it in 1996,
and since then I’ve carried such fond memories of this medieval
gem, that I’ve deliberately made a detour a year or two ago,
when my wife and I drove from Schaffhausen in the north of
Switzerland down to Lausanne, in order to show her its
picturesque charm.
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Murten lies on a
gentle hill on the south-eastern shore of the small
Lake Morat,
and due to its olde-world charm has become a popular tourist
destination. Apart from the shoreline, it is still entirely
surrounded by its well preserved medieval ring wall, covered by a
wooden structure carrying a roof. You can walk all the way around
the town, gazing down on the rooftops of the many surviving
buildings from the 15th – 18th centuries, the
narrow alleyways between them, or look out over the lake at sunset
out to Mont Vully, the Jura and the Alps.
Inside the Old
Town, you can sit in the pleasant shaded arcades in front of the
shops and restaurants, or on the lovely lakeside promenade sipping
on a glass of wine from the nearby vineyards of the Vully. A vast
range of water sports, cultural activities and other excursions are
on offer.
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Historically the
town is renowned for the battle fought there in 1476 in which the
Swiss defeated Charles the Bold of Burgundy. Since then Murten
annually celebrates the victory on June 22. We were lucky to be in
the town on the previous day, when preparations were underway for
the festival. Colourful flags were hung from the buildings, whilst
special decorations could be seen in shops and restaurants.
Unfortunately we had to depart that afternoon, missing the
festivities in this, for us, special town. |
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Óbidos
(Portugal)
On a hill, just
about 100 km. north of Lisbon, lies the meticulously preserved
medieval town of Óbidos (The name stems from the Latin for citadel).
It is undoubtedly one of Portugal’s most picturesque settlements,
completely surrounded by a fortified wall. Although all of Óbidos is
declared a national monument, it is a living town with about 3 100
inhabitants.
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The town is known
as the “Wedding Present Town”, because King Dinis in the 13th
century was so impressed by its beauty, that he gave Óbidos to Queen
Isabel de Aragon as a wedding present. Since that time more than one
sovereign offered it to their brides. The thick stone walls
encircling the town are at least 13 m high.
Walking along on
top of the wall, one looks down on the terracotta roofs of the
medieval homesteads, the narrow cobblestone streets and white-washed
walls of the houses, adorned with brightly coloured bougainvilleas
and geraniums. On the outside of the wall you see the vineyards and
windmills dotting the countryside, as well as the impressive
Amoreira Aqueduct, dating from 1575.
At the main
entrance to the town, as an integral part of the wall, a massive 12th
century castle towers above. It has been converted into an elegant
posada (hotel), housing guests in luxurious rooms. From the gate,
the main street (Rue Direita) leads you to the main square
Praca de Santa Maria), with a beautiful fountain, and the
Santa Maria Church, famous for the marriage between the
10-year-old Afonso V and his 8-year-old cousin!
It is quite an
experience to stay over in the Posada. When stepping outside
at night the sight of the floodlighted walls and the soft light
streaming out of the small windows, creates a romantic medieval
atmosphere.
- Manie
Wolvaardt
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If
you hear the word OCTOBERFEST, you immediately think of the
Bavarian Beer Fest in Munich. This popular Beer Festival takes
place during the last two weeks of September. But it is also
true that the real
Freimarkt Fest is set for
Bremen in Northern Germany during the first two weeks of
October. This folk festival’s only formal side is its
introductory procession.
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Over a period of 14 days, hundreds of arts and crafts, flower
and food stalls clutter the market square. Song and dance and
theatre, in all forms and colours of costumes, take turns to
entertain the thousands of spectators |
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Although autumn is not the ideal season to visit Northern
Europe, it is the ideal time to explore this north western
corner of Germany. For the traveller, Lower Saxony and the
independent city states of Hamburg and Bremen provide a series
of memorable photo snapshots: rejoice in a different atmosphere,
urban and urbane, tolerant and multicultural, and based on
centuries of trade with the world. |
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Bremen is the home of the legendary beer
producer, Beck's which is a popular German
choice around the world. Tours allow visitors to see how the
beer is made and also taste the finished product. The name
Beck's is synonymous with Bremen and a tour of the
facilities, followed by a dinner at the Beck's Café, is a
must when visiting the city. |
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Bustling Bremen retains reminders of its past trade-based
glories and wealth. Situated on the eastern banks of the
River Wesen, Bremen’s sightseeing attractions are in
Altstadt, between the river and the angular ponds that
once formed a moat, and particularly around the central
Marktplatz. This is where you will find the
Rathaus, the Saint Petri Dom and other
historical buildings that will highlight the many stories of
yesteryears.
On
the main square of Medieval Bremen stands the green-roofed town
hall and the cathedral. Many photographers have captured the
essence of this beautiful Marktplatz. Out on the
cobblestones is a monumental sculpture of the city’s protector,
Roland. |

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But
it is really the less portentous sculpture, almost hiding next
to the Rathaus building, that draws the attention:
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– the well known Bremen Town Musicians,
by the local sculptor Gerhard Marcks, was erected in
1953. This icon of four animals tells the Brothers Grimm
fairytale. Locals will delight in telling you the story of
this happy foursome: a donkey, dog, cat, and chicken who
came to Bremen and drove out robbers with their growls and
noises. The triumphant group proudly called Bremen their
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In
similar environment, you will find a replica copy in the Latvian
capital of
Riga. |
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And
then, all of a sudden, when walking the circumference of the
square, you spot Böttcherstrasse, an inconspicuous
narrow cobblestone lane. This once insignificant coopers’
residential area, was transformed into Art Deco style in the
1920’s by Ludwig Roselius, a wealthy coffee merchant. The
Glockenspiel triangle (a modern carillion)
is a familiar site where a different tune is played every hour
by an array of many different sized bells.
Next door is Schnoorviertel, a historic district
of small houses dating from the 15th – 18th
centuries. It was one of Bremen’s poorest areas before World War
II, but miraculously escaped destruction. |
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It has been beautifully restored over decades
and now teems with boutique shops, trendy restaurants and
many tourists. |
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There are several companies that lead various
tours down the Weser River, which runs through the centre of
Bremen. The cruises offer visitors a chance to
see the surrounding city as well as the river that has been
the centre of Bremen culture and life for hundreds of years.
-
Johann
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Hi Tessa,
I must apologise for not sending you this ‘e’ mail earlier. Firstly I
would like to thank you for the excellent service that you gave us.
We encountered no problems on the tour and the arrangements on Trafalgar
Tours side were first class. The tour director, Alberto Fratino, was
excellent. Dubai airport was amazing, but the four hour wait was
exhausting. The tour through Rome was very interesting and the highlight
was without a doubt the visit to the Vatican City and the Basilica of
St. Peter.
There were many highlights on the tour and it would take me hours to
highlight them all, so I will give you a few that really impressed me.
The Isle of Capri was stunning. We went on a boat trip round part of the
island and could not believe how clear and clean the water was. We took
a taxi to the top of the island in a bus. The road to the top of the
mountain is at places not wide enough for two vehicles. The shops and
hotels are amazing. I was told that the restaurants and shops are open
20 hours a day. The gardens are beautiful and the vegetation is
sub-tropical. On the way back, we stopped at Sorrento and spent a few
hours walking around and to enjoy ice cream. We could choose from a
selection of over 100 flavors. The Northern part of Italy is very much
like the Western Cape and the garden route with regard to the vegetation
(plenty of grapes are grown in this area as well as wheat).
Our trip to Venice was fascinating. The streets are narrow, with the
result that there are no motor vehicles to be seen. The shops are very
‘classy’ and all the top clothing name brands are present. Most of the
hotels are five stars and the going rate is about 600 euro per night. We
went on a trip through the canals on a gondola which was very
interesting. Buildings are being repaired on an ongoing basis due to the
damage being done by the water.
The Italian lakes were beautiful and the scenery was awesome. The
leaning tower of Pisa is a magnificent piece of architecture as are all
the buildings in Italy. It is amazing how the churches and buildings
were built in those days without the equipment that we have these days.
Some of the churches took more than 100 years to build.
Florence and all the marble statues was also an experience. The tour
ended in Rome and we then went to visit my son in Gravina, which is in
the southern part of Italy. We took a bus to Gravina which took us 5
hrs. As a matter of interest, Gravina was built before Rome. The town
has 50,000 inhabitants. People stay in the older part of the town, but
are the very poor people. The area is very much like the Free State with
regard to the vegetation. While we were there, the temperature was in
the high 30’s centigrade. We spent a wonderful week in Gravina with my
son and got to know a lot about the people and how they live.
Kind regards
Stuart & Elna du Plessis |