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The recent coverage in the media of Alain de Button’s idea of camping for a month at Heathrow Airport Terminal 5, in order to write a book on the human emotions of people in a specific environment, gave rise to some thoughts on my own encounters at airports. If one comes to think about the human drama that enfolds everyday at airports, one realises that nowhere else will you experience these mixed and contrasting emotions of people.

On the one hand, as an outsider looking inward, you experience the ecstasies of families’ reunions in the arrivals hall, and then in the adjacent departure hall, the raw emotions of separation, not knowing when dear ones will see one another again.  You feel as if you are sitting in a theatre, watching a gripping, true to life performance, set on stage with realistic décor of electronic flight schedules and revolving luggage carousels. The background sound is not a musical theme, but the humming noise of many voices, often disturbed by shrill public announcements.


Watching the ever-changing flashing departure board, one experiences the romantic tales of many travel journals; all so totally different and special
.  Here are some personal reflections:

FLIGHT AC 303 to Anchorage departure delayed 19h25 (maybe due to inclement weather conditions?)
I remember my ski-plane flight to the summit glacier of
Mount McKinley in Alaska. In front of us a magical scene was unfolding: a soft golden glare on the snow-capped peak, breaking through the cotton-like clouds, forming a layer halfway up the mountain. To the western side, the rainy clouds were rolling away, with the only evidence of the past two weeks of rain in the double rainbow! There we were, small specks in total silence of God’s perfect creation; a sight that only a few fortunate mountaineers can experience conquering mountain heights after days of exposure to the toughest elements of nature.

FLIGHT JL 784 to Tokyo departure on time 18h05 (punctual as only the Japanese can be!)
Immediately my mind goes back to th
e afternoon we met the miracle man of Hiroshima on the station. The rest of the day we first hand experienced the true survival story of one of the A-Bomb victims of 64 years ago.  We had undertaken a looking-glass journey through Japan in an afternoon, learnt from Tateshi some very special Japanese values and traditions, understand to appreciate their way of preparing food in the original Japanese style, and may also be only starting to understand the complexities of this different country in our diverse world.

FLIGHT BT 808 to Riga 20h10 (only two flights daily to this Baltic Capital – only recently opened its doors to the world)
It was an early Wednesday morning in February in the land that sings
LATVIA; it is freezing cold in the city, divided by the frozen mirror-like Daugava River with maximum temperatures not even above zero degrees. It snowed most of the night. You look down and see the deep sharp footprint edges in the fresh snow. Some of the age old cobblestones are totally covered by this white blanket. In other places the square forms of the stone-paving are edged off by an ice border, like lead-glass in a cathedral’s rose window: telling a gripping story of the city’s history as part of the mighty Russia of yester year.

Yet another interesting corner of an airport are the luggage belts: where people and their luggage meet again after a tiresome separation! Tired and irritated people – and suitcases, large and small, old and new, each telling its own story as it passes you on this manmade carousel: The neat pitch-black Samsonite versions of business people trotting the global village, or the flamboyant multi-colour Cellini designer luggage in rainbow colours of red, pink, green and yellow; the half-opened zipped canvas kids stuff with teddybears visible, or the heavy travelled dilapidated suitcases dating back some decades with laundry pealing out, disclosing the real owner. So often in a park, you’ll try and match the dog with its owner: in the same way it has become a game, while waiting for my own luggage, to try and pre-match the true owner next to the carousel with the passing parade of multi-colour styles of luggage!

And already I am looking forward to my next encounter with the different moods and faces of an airport!

-  Johann

 

The heights by great men reached and kept
were not attained by sudden flight,
But they, while their companions slept,
were toiling upward in the night.

- Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

 
 
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When prehistoric man was still a hunter-gatherer, roaming the vastness of planet earth, he surely must have built some sort of defense to safeguard him from predators at night – perhaps a fence crudely constructed from branches and poles.  But as soon as he developed the art of domesticating animals and to cultivate some plants, he began to settle and moved into a different kind of life – that of living together in small encampments, which later on developed into villages, towns, and ultimately large cities and even city states.

As soon as man became a villager, his need for protection shifted dramatically: from animal to enemy! A crude fence was not suitable any more; walls were needed. Only traces of the earliest walled villages remain, but parts of some of the bigger towns and cities from antiquity can still be traced or seen today.

 

   

A typical one is the historically unique ancient oasis of Jericho in what is now known as the West Bank. The sweet water of the spring created the perfect centre around which one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world developed. Agricultural activities flourished, so that wheat and water transformed the land into one “overflowing with milk and honey”. Soon the city became the envy of peoples elsewhere, and it had to be fortified with walls and towers. 

   

Archaeological excavations reveal that the site was already inhabited around 11 000 years ago (9 000 BC), and that the walls were built about 2 000 years later. The ancient centre of the city is situated on a mound, which was surrounded by a vast earthen rampart with a stone retaining wall of about five meters high. On top of the retaining wall another wall was built, about two meters thick and six to eight meters high, and on the crest of the embankment another mud brick wall about 14 meters above ground level outside the retaining wall. This is what the Israelites had to conquer, according to Joshua.


What is really fascinating is that recent archaeological discoveries reveal ample evidence that the mud brick city wall really collapsed and was deposited at the base of the stone retaining wall. (For those interested, see The walls of
Jericho. Archaeology confirms: they really DID come a-tumblin’ down www.answeringenesis.org).

 

In the millennia that followed fortifications were built around cities all over the world. This continued until the late 17th century, but thereafter the art of warfare developed in such a way that walls no longer could keep the enemy out. During the 18th and the 19th centuries many of them were removed, because they blocked access to the expanding suburbs.

In many towns and cities you will today find that the ring-roads encircling the town centre, were built where the walls were taken down. But most of the cities still have retained at least a fragment of the original – sometimes a gateway, a tower or a section of the wall, such as in Bath and Chester in England and Wales, St Remy in  France, Coimbra in Portugal, Lier or Mechelen in Belgium …
 


Castel deli’ Anguilla Umbria Italy

But quite a number of cities still have most of their city walls (almost) complete. Out of them UNESCO has proclaimed 53 of them all over the world as World Heritage Sites. Just to name a few of them: Assisi and San Gimignano (Italy),  Avignon and Carcassonne (France), the Old City of Jerusalem, Tallinn (Estonia), Rhodes (Greece), etc.

It speaks for itself that it is not possible to have first-hand experience of all of these towns and cities. Therefore I have decided to shortly concentrate on just four of them, which have impressed me. Two of them are well-known (One is also a UNESCO heritage site); the other two are small towns, but in their own really worth a visit. 

Fountain Square San Gimignano Tuscany Italy

   

Toledo (Spain)

About 70 km. south of Madrid lies Toledo, a city of about 80 000 inhabitants, capital of the province of Toledo. UNESCO declared it a World Heritage site in 1986 due to its cultural heritage and architectural importance.

After Spain was conquered by the Visigoths, Toledo became the capital of Spain in 513. In the 7th century it was also the seat of the Church of Spain. Over the centuries Arabs, Jews and Christians lived here side by side, so that the city became a site where remarkable artistic development took place, such as Hispano-Moorish art of great richness. One of the famous artists who lived here, was the painter, El Greco.

  
   

Different styles of architecture are to be seen everywhere. In its motivation for declaring the city a World Heritage site, The Organization of World Heritage Sites states: “The city of Toledo in its entirety represents a unique artistic achievement and an uninterrupted succession of remarkable achievements, from Visigothic churches to the Baroque ensembles of the 18th century” (http://www.ovpm.org/en/spain/toledo).

When nearing Toledo by car, you can see the old city high up on a hill-top from afar, with majestic buildings towering above, such as the Gothic Cathedral (Built from1226 – 1493), considered to be one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in Europe, as well as the Alcazar (Arabicized Latin for palace-castle).


Toledo is surrounded on three sides (east, south and west) by a bend of the Tagus River, whilst massive walls prohibit entry at places where the city could otherwise be easily reached. After you’ve parked your car in the parking lot down below, you have to walk up a steep slope to enter the city through impressive gates in its massive surrounding walls, such as the Puerto del Sol (Gate of the Sun) or the Puerto Bisagra
 

   

For those who do not want to tackle the incline, an escalator can be taken to the centre of the old town. The streets in the historic centre are very narrow, and not recommended to travel through by car! In this labyrinth you will find a plethora of little churches, mosques and synagogues.

Besides the impressive sights, Toledo is famous for its handcrafts, such as the fine swords known throughout the world, its ceramic-ware and embroidery, but also for its gastronomy consisting of fresh products from the region, like game, cheese, the home-grown wines and the marzipan from Arabic origin. I would recommend an overnight stay in Toledo, if one really wants to experience the magic of this special walled city.

 


 

 
Chester (England)

Chester is a city on the western border of England, close to Wales, an appropriate place to stay over, should you be on your way to Ireland, to board the ferry at Holyhead the next morning. According to the latest census it is home to about 77 000 inhabitants.
 

Chester is often referred to as the best preserved medieval city in England, although many buildings date from the Victorian era. It claims to have the most complete city walls in the United Kingdom, forming an almost complete circuit of about 3 km long. The only breaks in the walls are for entrances to car parks or for approach roads to the inner city. According to the grading system for walls they are listed as Grade I, and are also registered as a Scheduled Ancient Monument.

Chester was founded by the Romans around 70 AD as a fortress. Walls consisting of wood and earth palisades were erected, but replaced by stone walls between the 1st and 3rd century. These were extended later on towards the River Dee, flowing close by, also enclosing the Chester Castle, built around 1070.

                        

   

Different sieges of the city resulted in extensive damage to the ramparts, but this was repaired and renovated. Today the walls are a popular walking circuit, from where you have a fine view over the city, the river and the surrounding countryside. A famous sight is the Eastgate Clock, added in 1899, commemorating the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria.

The most interesting sights of the medieval part of the city are the Rows and the so-called black-and-white architecture. The Rows are buildings consisting of dwellings and shops on two storeys. Those on the ground floor are often below street level, so that you have to enter them by way of steps. Those on the second floor are entered from a continuous walkway, with railings overlooking the street. The many black-and-white buildings were erected in Victorian times.

Other prominent sights within the city centre are the cathedral in Gothic style, the Chester Castle, and the town hall. The Grosvenor Museum includes Roman tombstones and an art gallery. Tourists will find information at the town hall, as well as at the Chester Visitor Centre.

 
Murten (Switzerland)

Murten (The German form of the French Morat) is a small town situated between Bern and Neuchâtel, and is the capital of the Lake District of the canton of Fribourg. I first visited it in 1996, and since then I’ve carried such fond memories of this medieval gem, that I’ve deliberately made a detour a year or two ago, when my wife and I drove from Schaffhausen in the north of Switzerland down to Lausanne, in order to show her its picturesque charm.
 

     

Murten lies on a gentle hill on the south-eastern shore of the small Lake Morat, and due to its olde-world charm has become a popular tourist destination. Apart from the shoreline, it is still entirely surrounded by its well preserved medieval ring wall, covered by a wooden structure carrying a roof. You can walk all the way around the town, gazing down on the rooftops of the many surviving buildings from the 15th – 18th centuries, the narrow alleyways between them, or look out over the lake at sunset out to Mont Vully, the Jura and the Alps.

Inside the Old Town, you can sit in the pleasant shaded arcades in front of the shops and restaurants, or on the lovely lakeside promenade sipping on a glass of wine from the nearby vineyards of the Vully. A vast range of water sports, cultural activities and other excursions are on offer.


Historically the town is renowned for the battle fought there in 1476 in which the Swiss defeated Charles the Bold of Burgundy. Since then Murten annually celebrates the victory on June 22. We were lucky to be in the town on the previous day, when preparations were underway for the festival. Colourful flags were hung from the buildings, whilst special decorations could be seen in shops and restaurants. Unfortunately we had to depart that afternoon, missing the festivities in this, for us, special town. 

                       

 
Óbidos (Portugal)

On a hill, just about 100 km. north of Lisbon, lies the meticulously preserved medieval town of Óbidos (The name stems from the Latin for citadel). It is undoubtedly one of Portugal’s most picturesque settlements, completely surrounded by a fortified wall. Although all of Óbidos is declared a national monument, it is a living town with about 3 100 inhabitants. 
 

                                                                  

  
The town is known as the “Wedding Present Town”, because King Dinis in the 13th century was so impressed by its beauty, that he gave Óbidos to Queen Isabel de Aragon as a wedding present. Since that time more than one sovereign offered it to their brides. The thick stone walls encircling the town are at least 13 m high.

Walking along on top of the wall, one looks down on the terracotta roofs of the medieval homesteads, the narrow cobblestone streets and white-washed walls of the houses, adorned with brightly coloured bougainvilleas and geraniums.  On the outside of the wall you see the vineyards and windmills dotting the countryside, as well as the impressive Amoreira Aqueduct, dating from 1575.

At the main entrance to the town, as an integral part of the wall, a massive 12th century castle towers above. It has been converted into an elegant posada (hotel), housing guests in luxurious rooms. From the gate, the main street (Rue Direita) leads you to the main square Praca de Santa Maria), with a beautiful fountain, and the Santa Maria Church, famous for the marriage between the 10-year-old Afonso V and his 8-year-old cousin!

It is quite an experience to stay over in the Posada. When stepping outside at night the sight of the floodlighted walls and the soft light streaming out of the small windows, creates a romantic medieval atmosphere.

- Manie Wolvaardt

 

 

 
 
 
 

If you hear the word OCTOBERFEST, you immediately think of the Bavarian Beer Fest in Munich. This popular Beer Festival takes place during the last two weeks of September. But it is also true that the real Freimarkt Fest is set for Bremen in Northern Germany during the first two weeks of October. This folk festival’s only formal side is its introductory procession.
 

Over a period of 14 days, hundreds of arts and crafts, flower and food stalls clutter the market square. Song and dance and theatre, in all forms and colours of costumes, take turns to entertain the thousands of spectators

   

 

 

Although autumn is not the ideal season to visit Northern Europe, it is the ideal time to explore this north western corner of Germany. For the traveller, Lower Saxony and the independent city states of Hamburg and Bremen provide a series of memorable photo snapshots: rejoice in a different atmosphere, urban and urbane, tolerant and multicultural, and based on centuries of trade with the world.

  

 

Bremen is the home of the legendary beer producer, Beck's which is a popular German choice around the world. Tours allow visitors to see how the beer is made and also taste the finished product. The name Beck's is synonymous with Bremen and a tour of the facilities, followed by a dinner at the Beck's Café, is a must when visiting the city.

    

Bustling Bremen retains reminders of its past trade-based glories and wealth. Situated on the eastern banks of the River Wesen, Bremen’s sightseeing attractions are in Altstadt, between the river and the angular ponds that once formed a moat, and particularly around the central Marktplatz. This is where you will find the Rathaus, the Saint Petri Dom and other historical buildings that will highlight the many stories of yesteryears.

On the main square of Medieval Bremen stands the  green-roofed town hall and the cathedral. Many photographers have captured the essence of this beautiful Marktplatz. Out on the cobblestones is a monumental sculpture of the city’s protector, Roland.

 

But it is really the less portentous sculpture, almost hiding next to the Rathaus building, that draws the attention:


– the well known Bremen Town Musicians, by the local sculptor Gerhard Marcks, was erected in 1953. This icon of four animals tells the Brothers Grimm fairytale. Locals will delight in telling you the story of this happy foursome: a donkey, dog, cat, and chicken who came to Bremen and drove out robbers with their growls and noises. The triumphant group proudly called Bremen their home.

In similar environment, you will find a replica copy in the Latvian capital of Riga.

                      

And then, all of a sudden, when walking the circumference of the square, you spot Böttcherstrasse, an inconspicuous narrow cobblestone lane. This once insignificant coopers’ residential area, was transformed into Art Deco style in the 1920’s by Ludwig Roselius, a wealthy coffee merchant. The Glockenspiel triangle (a modern carillion) is a familiar site where a different tune is played every hour by an array of many different sized bells.

Next door is Schnoorviertel, a historic district of small houses dating from the 15th – 18th centuries. It was one of Bremen’s poorest areas before World War II, but miraculously escaped destruction.

 

It has been beautifully restored over decades and now teems with boutique shops, trendy restaurants and many tourists.

                 
 

                                    

There are several companies that lead various tours down the Weser River, which runs through the centre of Bremen. The cruises offer visitors a chance to see the surrounding city as well as the river that has been the centre of Bremen culture and life for hundreds of years.

- Johann


 

 
 
 
 

 

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LIMITED AVAILABILITY OF FLIGHTS DURING JUNE JULY 2010

 

It appears that all airlines have blocked their lower fares for travel in/out of South Africa during mid June to end July 2010. This is primarily linked to FIFA 2010.  This is due to group bookings and airlines "blocking" seats.  There is no guarantee that seats will become available in the lower fares, and if so, if they will be for your proposed June July 2010 travel dates.  Group bookings are normally finalised within 60 days of travel - all things being equal, this could very well be when lower fares COULD become available - once again, no guarantee though. Group bookings could be protected for 60 seats - and at the time of group finalising, the entire allocation could very well be secured.

It is our recommendation that if travelling abroad during this time, that reservations be processed timeously so as to avoid disappointment and secure the best current schedule and costing.  However having said this, lower fares could be available, at a later stage - absolutely no guarantee though!  All we can advise you are of the current fares available

 

NEVER DISCARD OLD PASSPORTS

Never destroy or discard previous Passports when you are issued with a new Passport - some Consulates are now requesting all previous passports and if unable to produce this, an affidavit must be issued, and this could very well jeopardise the issuance of your visa.

 
 
 
 

Hi Tessa,

I must apologise for not sending you this ‘e’ mail earlier. Firstly I would like to thank you for the excellent service that you gave us.

We encountered no problems on the tour and the arrangements on Trafalgar Tours side were first class. The tour director, Alberto Fratino, was excellent. Dubai airport was amazing, but the four hour wait was exhausting. The tour through Rome was very interesting and the highlight was without a doubt the visit to the Vatican City and the Basilica of St. Peter.

There were many highlights on the tour and it would take me hours to highlight them all, so I will give you a few that really impressed me. The Isle of Capri was stunning. We went on a boat trip round part of the island and could not believe how clear and clean the water was. We took a taxi to the top of the island in a bus. The road to the top of the mountain is at places not wide enough for two vehicles. The shops and hotels are amazing. I was told that the restaurants and shops are open 20 hours a day. The gardens are beautiful and the vegetation is sub-tropical. On the way back, we stopped at Sorrento and spent a few hours walking around and to enjoy ice cream. We could choose from a selection of over 100 flavors. The Northern part of Italy is very much like the Western Cape and the garden route with regard to the vegetation (plenty of grapes are grown in this area as well as wheat).

Our trip to Venice was fascinating. The streets are narrow, with the result that there are no motor vehicles to be seen. The shops are very ‘classy’ and all the top clothing name brands are present. Most of the hotels are five stars and the going rate is about 600 euro per night. We went on a trip through the canals on a gondola which was very interesting. Buildings are being repaired on an ongoing basis due to the damage being done by the water.

The Italian lakes were beautiful and the scenery was awesome. The leaning tower of Pisa is a magnificent piece of architecture as are all the buildings in Italy. It is amazing how the churches and buildings were built in those days without the equipment that we have these days. Some of the churches took more than 100 years to build.

Florence and all the marble statues was also an experience. The tour ended in Rome and we then went to visit my son in Gravina, which is in the southern part of Italy. We took a bus to Gravina which took us 5 hrs. As a matter of interest, Gravina was built before Rome. The town has 50,000 inhabitants. People stay in the older part of the town, but are the very poor people. The area is very much like the Free State with regard to the vegetation. While we were there, the temperature was in the high 30’s centigrade. We spent a wonderful week in Gravina with my son and got to know a lot about the people and how they live.

Kind regards
Stuart & Elna du Plessis

 

 
 
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