“Time
is the longest distance between two places”
Newsletter 85 | November 2008

P.O. Box 13600, NOORDSTAD, 9302 E-mail:
info@etniquetravel.co.za
Tel: (051) 406 2500
Fax: (051) 436 3793
AFTER HOURS EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBER:
083 461 2561
There are three kinds of companies:
Those who make things happen;
Those who watch things happen;
And those who wonder what has happened
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WHAT IS THE LEVEL OF OUR
SERVICE FELLOW SOUTH AFRICANS? |
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Having returned
from Europe after an extensive visit recently, we once again were
confronted with the sub-standard of service locally; especially with
the FIFA World Cup only some 18 months away. Often we are criticized
that our comments are harsh and unfair, but unfortunately we need to
focus on poor performance in order to try and address the problems
timeously.
We are going to
mention just a few incidents to raise awareness:
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Arriving at ORTIA
from abroad, the 380 passengers were met by only one immigration
official; one can just imagine the opinion and comments by tired
foreign visitors.
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Although five
luggage carousels have been installed, only one is operational
serving 4 different flights’ luggage; the result: stacks of
suitcases on top on each other.
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The Department of
Home Affairs, (for decades conveniently located in the CBD of
Bloemfontein for issuing of ID’s and Passports to all citizens),
has moved to Rocklands, without any media release or advice to
anyone in the market place; after two weeks, they can still only
be reached by one cell number, and the physical directions are “a
big face brick building past Coca Cola in George Lubbe Street!
But, as they wisely
pointed out by some: the World Cup is still far away to make our
millions! Don’t wake anybody up unnecessary or too early.
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GASTRONOMIC
WOODLANDS OF ARDENNES:
Food for both body and soul |
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Somewhere in the middle of
nowhere you will find the diverse countryside of Ardennes.
Partly north-east France and partly south western Belgium, or
more specifically at the south of Wallonia, lies the region of
extensive forests, rolling hills and old citadels.
If you are
looking for scenic forest beauty and enjoy the joys of good food
and wine (and beer!), you need to look no further: if you like
peace and quiet, this is Belgium’s most heavily forested region,
and also least heavily populated countryside along the Meuse and
Semois rivers valleys. It is a region for all seasons, but the
crystal clear autumn hues of green, yellow, orange and red
accentuates the change of season best. |
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For the
wandering tourist, it is a scenic treat, a gastronomic delight
and a welcome respite from ordinary sightseeing centred around
ceaseless museum- and castle-hopping: That is not to say that
the Ardennes lack the presence of worthwhile historic sights -
to the contrary, the many medieval citadels teem with castles,
cathedrals and crusade remnants. However, with the change in
landscape comes a shift of emphasis, from treasures hoarded
indoors to outdoor treasures of bracing air, scenic winding
mountain and forested roads, sparkling clear streams and
tranquil lakes. Add fairytale-like fortified towns, still in a
medieval slumber, rustic barns, water-mills and monasteries
converted into quaint country inns that provide the ultimate in
comfort without losing one bit of their original unique
character, and you more or less have the bare essence of a
lovely week through the Ardennes. |
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It’s difficult to recommend an
itinerary for this region: this is déjàvu countryside,
yet so compact that it’s equally suited to returning to the same
“home away from home” each night; an arrangement that suited us
well this time. After my follow-up hand wrist-replacement
operation in Bad Kreuznach, Germany, we decided to
fill in the week prior to our German friends, Birgit and
Christian’s wedding in Laubach with a relaxed week in nearby
Ardennes.
We made
Bouillon our base: this smallish town, key-positioned
between both Germany and France, dated back to the times of the
crusaders of 1096 of d’Ardenne-Verdun.
Despite its ideal and fortified location on a strategic
hairpin-bend of the Semois River, you can reach
the inner core by means of three bridges. Bouillon stretches
along the banks of the river, looking like a fairytale book
illustration in the evening. |
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The popular
tourist season had passed, and only a few establishments were
open. We stayed at the Hotel de la Poste, on Place
Saint Arnould, with the reflection of the castle in the calm
waters of the river passing outside our loft-bedroom window.
Dating back to 1730, this modest hotel serves excellent cuisine.
A short stroll across the Pont de Liège, will bring you into the
centre of town, linked by a web of steep and narrow cobblestone
alleys. Most of the historic buildings are either museums
(Godfrey of Bouillon-museum, Ducal Museum) or form part of the
well known College of music.
The region of Bouillon consists
of a dozen of small villages, all contributing to the network of
remarkable excursions, centered around Bouillon, Bertrix
and Paliseul.
A few kilometres away is Corbion, ideal
for long walks through dense forests. On your drive along the
meandering River Semois, you will experience breathtaking views
of autumn-colour reflections, and many a small sleepy towns like
Botassart, Poupehan, Frahan and Rochehaut.
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The latter is home to the
Auberge de la Ferme, where you can experience all five
sensorial: see the beauty of local art, listen to the music of a
string-quartet, feel the textures of woven fabrics and smell and
taste the gorgeously prepared cuisine. While sipping a glass of
locally produced Clos du Champ là-haut wine in the solarium,
you can hear the raindrops on the glass roof, together creating
almost a mosaic artwork with the tapestry of multicoloured leaves.
Other famous food and accommodation
establishments of the region are Auberge du Moulin Hideux,
Hostellerie du Pieure des Conques, and Hôtel-restaurant Moulin de
Boiron, a boutique-like hotel next to a man-made lake, near
Gedinne. When we arrived at lunchtime, it was just
starting to rain, and the horses were joyfully parading in the
paddock next to the entrance road. Our choice in the menu was easy
and consisted of freshly baked bread and orange peel and tomato
soup.
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Dinant
never escaped any of the conflicts that, over centuries, raged
in the Meuse Valley. Together with the well known Citadel,
perched high above the town and river, and reached by a cable
car, or some 400 steep steps, it remains one of the Ardennes
region most popular destinations.
Some 20
kilometres from Bouillon is the famous Abbey du’Orval,
known for the popular beer brewed by a handful of loyal monks.
The setting, next to a small lake and surrounded by dense
forestland, is impressive, and the buildings and gardens,
reminding one of the Monestir de Montserrat, near Barcelona, are
well maintained and visited. |
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A
visit to the abbey is an exercise in serenity, with little to
suggest the huge influence its monks wielded in past centuries.
The ruins are fascinating legends to the web of underground
passages that once connected the seven lakes in the vicinity,
and still hide some aerie treasures of yesterday.
Spa
has been a busy tourist trap since early days. So universally
was its name equated with the miracles of thermal springs and
mineral waters, that spa is now synonymous to health and
fitness centres. The well known twin-spire black cathedral is
represented on many postage stamps.
Just south of Spa is the Circuit de Spa-Francorchamp,
still voted the most beautiful racing circuit in Europe. In the
beautiful vaulted cellars of the Abbey of Stavelot, a
unique racing car museum is found. |
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Nearby,
between Malmedy and Stavelot, we
stayed at the Romantik Hotel le val d’Ambleve, a
true romantic boutique hotel, and managed by Ruud and Marion
Roxs. Under the very capable hands of Ruud, the Michelin-chèf,
each dish is a beautiful composition of tastefully displayed and
fresh food, prepared to perfection.
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Just across the border in
Germany, and next to the River Rur, lies the artist’s town of
Monschau.
The renowned
Glashütte und Handwerkermarkt display a wide selection of
hand-blown glass works, and locally made arts and crafts.
At the
Monschau Plätze und Kunst Park, art works of most of the
emerging German artists are displayed. |

Bastogne
had been the appointed keeper of memorials to the famous Battle
of the Bulge, during the fatal winter of 1944, when General
MacAuliffe held overpowering numbers of German troops at bay
until Allied reinforcements could be flown in.
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Our last
appointment in Germany, before returning via London, was the
wedding of Birgit and Christian in Laubach.
I met Birgit, a German orthopaedic surgeon, who can speak
English fluently, during my first wrist replacement operation in
February in Bad Kreuznach. Like lost in translation, I
was left in the cold with my school German-language experience
of some 40 years ago, and they took pity on me and
invited me to dine with them and join them on various excursions
to Bacharach and nearby towns in the Nahe wine region.
What an
experience and privilege to have been invited to their wedding
with typical German hospitality! The ceremony in the beautiful
historical Evangelische Stadtkirche started at 15h00,
followed by the Sektempfang at 17h00, and the
Abendessen und Tanz in the medieval castle Schloss
Laubach, with all the atmosphere one can imagine. Although
we left at around 02h00, the younger group enjoyed sunrise the
next morning! A very special tradition is whereby the married
couple walked from table to table, introducing each guest and
also thanked them with some personal comment for their presence
and also influence on their lives. Again, this experience will
be a personal memory that both Monique and I will nurture for
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- Johann & Monique

The history of the
Oberammergau Passion Play begins in 1633. After the 30 years’ War
and a plague that caused many fatalities, the surviving population
of this Bavarian town vowed that they would perform the Play of
the suffering, death and resurrection of Christ, every ten
years. In 2010 the village will perform this play for the 41st
time, maintaining the continuity of this unique event. It will be
staged for a total of 102 days, starting on 15 May, and with the
last performance on 3 October 2008.
Over 2000
participants bring this story of Jesus of Nazareth to the ears and
eyes of the international audience in a five-hour presentation. In
2010 the performance will, for the first time, begin at 14h30, with
a dinner break, continuing until 22h30 in the evening.
SURE ETNIQUE TRAVEL
has taken the initiative to compile personalised visits, including
either a one-night or two-night all inclusive package. This unique
experience will be linked to a tailor-made travel arrangement to
suit each individual’s preference. We have secured 50 one- and
two-night packages for specific dates in June, August and September,
ranging in price from Euro 210 to Euro 925 per person, all inclusive
for the full duration of your Oberammergau portion of the tour. All
accommodation is within the town of Oberammergau and varies from
private landlords to a luxury 4-star countryside hotel.
For more
information, contact
Johann
TEL: 051 4062500
johann@etniquetravel.co.za

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Letters from our Customers: |
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“Hi Tessa, I
just want to express my appreciation of your services in
preparation for this trip. Everything was well arranged and I did
not have any problems on the trip to. The little hitch was my
collection from Dubai to Abu Dhabi but that did not present any
problems. Keep up the good work.”
Ntefeleng Tshiboho - Lesotho
Revenue Authority
At the Bodensee’s
northeast end, the island city of Lindau is on the
edge of Bavarian Germany. Linked to the mainland by road bridge,
it’s a magical place, with a harbour looking south to the mountains
of Appenzell in Switzerland and the Voralberg range rising over the
lakeside town of Bregenz in Austria.
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Regular
cruise ships, criss-crossing the lake, will enter through the
prominent 13th century lighthouse and marble lion,
guarding as symbol over this sanctuary of peace.
In early Roman times, Lindau was a fishing village. The first
historic records date from 882 AD. Owing to its location on a
main trading route, Lindau soon became a bustling trading post
in the middle ages, and consequently wealthy merchants built
grand gabled houses on the waterfront and town squares. Half
timbered buildings lean over the narrow pedestrianised cobbled
streets, and Maximilianstrasse, with its patrician houses,
fountains and shaded walks, is particularly beautiful. |

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We stayed at
the Lindauer Hof, located at one of Lindau’s most
scenic spots – directly at the port entrance. From our room on
the gabled third floor, we had a picture perfect view across the
moods of the lake and the hazy mountains in a distance.
Many traditional taverns, pubs and weinstubes invite visitors to
relax. We enjoyed some excellent Aufricht white wine of the
local Bodensee terrior at the Zur Fischerin Galerie und
Weinstube, a cute little wine bar in Ludwigstrasse.
Very similar in size and feeling to Isola di Pescatori on the
Italian Maggiore Lake, Lindau can be explored on foot: stroll
around Altstadt and see the Old Town Hall with its typical
stepped gables and garish murals, the Diebsturm (Thieves’ Tower)
and Sank Peterskirche with fine frescos depicting scenes from
the Passion Play, as is also found in nearby Oberammergau. |
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