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Time is the longest distance between two places

Newsletter 85  |  November 2008

P.O. Box 13600, NOORDSTAD, 9302          E-mail: info@etniquetravel.co.za
Tel: (051) 406 2500                    Fax: (051) 436 3793


AFTER HOURS EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBER:  083 461 2561

There are three kinds of companies:
Those who make things happen;
Those who watch things happen;

And those who wonder what has happened

Featured Article:
 

WHAT IS THE LEVEL OF OUR SERVICE FELLOW SOUTH AFRICANS?

 

Having returned from Europe after an extensive visit recently, we once again were confronted with the sub-standard of service locally; especially with the FIFA World Cup only some 18 months away. Often we are criticized that our comments are harsh and unfair, but unfortunately we need to focus on poor performance in order to try and address the problems timeously.

We are going to mention just a few incidents to raise awareness:

  • Arriving at ORTIA from abroad, the 380 passengers were met by only one immigration official; one can just imagine the opinion and comments by tired foreign visitors.

  • Although five luggage carousels have been installed, only one is operational serving 4 different flights’ luggage; the result: stacks of suitcases on top on each other.

  • The Department of Home Affairs, (for decades conveniently located in the CBD of Bloemfontein for issuing of ID’s and Passports to all citizens), has moved to Rocklands, without any media release or advice to anyone in the market place; after two weeks, they can still only be reached by one cell number, and the physical directions are “a big face brick building past Coca Cola in George Lubbe Street!

But, as they wisely pointed out by some: the World Cup is still far away to make our millions! Don’t wake anybody up unnecessary or too early.

Travel Stories:
 

GASTRONOMIC WOODLANDS OF ARDENNES:
Food for both body and soul

 

 

 

 

Somewhere in the middle of nowhere you will find the diverse countryside of Ardennes. Partly north-east France and partly south western Belgium, or more specifically at the south of Wallonia, lies the region of extensive forests, rolling hills and old citadels.

If you are looking for scenic forest beauty and enjoy the joys of good food and wine (and beer!), you need to look no further: if you like peace and quiet, this is Belgium’s most heavily forested region, and also least heavily populated countryside along the Meuse and Semois rivers valleys. It is a region for all seasons, but the crystal clear autumn hues of green, yellow, orange and red accentuates the change of season best.

   

For the wandering tourist, it is a scenic treat, a gastronomic delight and a welcome respite from ordinary sightseeing centred around ceaseless museum- and castle-hopping: That is not to say that the Ardennes lack the presence of worthwhile historic sights - to the contrary, the many medieval citadels teem with castles, cathedrals and crusade remnants. However, with the change in landscape comes a shift of emphasis, from treasures hoarded indoors to outdoor treasures of bracing air, scenic winding mountain and forested roads, sparkling clear streams and tranquil lakes. Add fairytale-like fortified towns, still in a medieval slumber, rustic barns, water-mills and monasteries converted into quaint country inns that provide the ultimate in comfort without losing one bit of their original unique character, and you more or less have the bare essence of a lovely week through the Ardennes.

   

It’s difficult to recommend an itinerary for this region: this is déjàvu countryside, yet so compact that it’s equally suited to returning to the same “home away from home” each night; an arrangement that suited us well this time. After my follow-up hand wrist-replacement operation in Bad Kreuznach, Germany, we decided to fill in the week prior to our German friends, Birgit and Christian’s wedding in Laubach with a relaxed week in nearby Ardennes.

We made Bouillon our base: this smallish town, key-positioned between both Germany and France, dated back to the times of the crusaders of 1096 of d’Ardenne-Verdun.

Despite its ideal and fortified location on a strategic hairpin-bend of the Semois River, you can reach the inner core by means of three bridges. Bouillon stretches along the banks of the river, looking like a fairytale book illustration in the evening.

   

The popular tourist season had passed, and only a few establishments were open. We stayed at the Hotel de la Poste, on Place Saint Arnould, with the reflection of the castle in the calm waters of the river passing outside our loft-bedroom window. Dating back to 1730, this modest hotel serves excellent cuisine.

A short stroll across the Pont de Liège, will bring you into the centre of town, linked by a web of steep and narrow cobblestone alleys. Most of the historic buildings are either museums (Godfrey of Bouillon-museum, Ducal Museum) or form part of the well known College of music.

The region of Bouillon consists of a dozen of small villages, all contributing to the network of remarkable excursions, centered around Bouillon, Bertrix and Paliseul.

A few kilometres away is Corbion, ideal for long walks through dense forests. On your drive along the meandering River Semois, you will experience breathtaking views of autumn-colour reflections, and many a small sleepy towns like Botassart, Poupehan, Frahan and Rochehaut.

The latter is home to the Auberge de la Ferme, where you can experience all five sensorial: see the beauty of local art, listen to the music of a string-quartet, feel the textures of woven fabrics and smell and taste the gorgeously prepared cuisine. While sipping a glass of locally produced Clos du Champ là-haut wine in the solarium, you can hear the raindrops on the glass roof, together creating almost a mosaic artwork with the tapestry of multicoloured leaves.

Other famous food and accommodation establishments of the region are Auberge du Moulin Hideux, Hostellerie du Pieure des Conques, and Hôtel-restaurant Moulin de Boiron, a boutique-like hotel next to a man-made lake, near Gedinne. When we arrived at lunchtime, it was just starting to rain, and the horses were joyfully parading in the paddock next to the entrance road. Our choice in the menu was easy and consisted of freshly baked bread and orange peel and tomato soup.

Dinant never escaped any of the conflicts that, over centuries, raged in the Meuse Valley. Together with the well known Citadel, perched high above the town and river, and reached by a cable car, or some 400 steep steps, it remains one of the Ardennes region most popular destinations.

Some 20 kilometres from Bouillon is the famous Abbey du’Orval, known for the popular beer brewed by a handful of loyal monks. The setting, next to a small lake and surrounded by dense forestland, is impressive, and the buildings and gardens, reminding one of the Monestir de Montserrat, near Barcelona, are well maintained and visited.

   

A visit to the abbey is an exercise in serenity, with little to suggest the huge influence its monks wielded in past centuries. The ruins are fascinating legends to the web of underground passages that once connected the seven lakes in the vicinity, and still hide some aerie treasures of yesterday.

Spa
has been a busy tourist trap since early days. So universally was its name equated with the miracles of thermal springs and mineral waters, that spa is now synonymous to health and fitness centres. The well known twin-spire black cathedral is represented on many postage stamps.  

Just south of Spa is the Circuit de Spa-Francorchamp, still voted the most beautiful racing circuit in Europe. In the beautiful vaulted cellars of the Abbey of Stavelot, a unique racing car museum is found.

     

Nearby, between Malmedy and Stavelot, we stayed at the Romantik Hotel le val d’Ambleve, a true romantic boutique hotel, and managed by Ruud and Marion Roxs. Under the very capable hands of Ruud, the Michelin-chèf, each dish is a beautiful composition of tastefully displayed and fresh food, prepared to perfection.

     

Just across the border in Germany, and next to the River Rur, lies the artist’s town of Monschau.

The renowned Glashütte und Handwerkermarkt display a wide selection of hand-blown glass works, and locally made arts and crafts.

At the Monschau Plätze und Kunst Park, art works of most of the emerging German artists are displayed.

          

Bastogne had been the appointed keeper of memorials to the famous Battle of the Bulge, during the fatal winter of 1944, when General MacAuliffe held overpowering numbers of German troops at bay until Allied reinforcements could be flown in.

Our last appointment in Germany, before returning via London, was the wedding of Birgit and Christian in Laubach. I met Birgit, a German orthopaedic surgeon, who can speak English fluently, during my first wrist replacement operation in February in Bad Kreuznach. Like lost in translation, I was left in the cold with my school German-language experience of some 40 years ago, and they took pity on me and invited me to dine with them and join them on various excursions to Bacharach and nearby towns in the Nahe wine region.

What an experience and privilege to have been invited to their wedding with typical German hospitality! The ceremony in the beautiful historical Evangelische Stadtkirche started at 15h00, followed by the Sektempfang at 17h00, and the Abendessen und Tanz in the medieval castle Schloss Laubach, with all the atmosphere one can imagine. Although we left at around 02h00, the younger group enjoyed sunrise the next morning! A very special tradition is whereby the married couple walked from table to table, introducing each guest and also thanked them with some personal comment for their presence and also influence on their lives. Again, this experience will be a personal memory that both Monique and I will nurture for years to come.

- Johann & Monique

 

 

 

The history of the Oberammergau Passion Play begins in 1633. After the 30 years’ War and a plague that caused many fatalities, the surviving population of this Bavarian town vowed that they would perform the Play of the suffering, death and resurrection of Christ, every ten years. In 2010 the village will perform this play for the 41st time, maintaining the continuity of this unique event. It will be staged for a total of 102 days, starting on 15 May, and with the last performance on 3 October 2008.

Over 2000 participants bring this story of Jesus of Nazareth to the ears and eyes of the international audience in a five-hour presentation. In 2010 the performance will, for the first time, begin at 14h30, with a dinner break, continuing until 22h30 in the evening.

SURE ETNIQUE TRAVEL has taken the initiative to compile personalised visits, including either a one-night or two-night all inclusive package. This unique experience will be linked to a tailor-made travel arrangement to suit each individual’s preference. We have secured 50 one- and two-night packages for specific dates in June, August and September, ranging in price from Euro 210 to Euro 925 per person, all inclusive for the full duration of your Oberammergau portion of the tour. All accommodation is within the town of Oberammergau and varies from private landlords to a luxury 4-star countryside hotel.

For more information, contact Johann
TEL: 051 4062500
 
johann@etniquetravel.co.za

Letters from our Customers:
 

OUR INBOX

 
  • “Hi Tessa, I just want to express my appreciation of your services in preparation for this trip. Everything was well arranged and I did not have any problems on the trip to. The little hitch was my collection from Dubai to Abu Dhabi but that did not present any problems. Keep up the good work.”
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LINDAU: Oase im Bodensee

 

At the Bodensee’s northeast end, the island city of Lindau is on the edge of Bavarian Germany. Linked to the mainland by road bridge, it’s a magical place, with a harbour looking south to the mountains of Appenzell in Switzerland and the Voralberg range rising over the lakeside town of Bregenz in Austria.

Regular cruise ships, criss-crossing the lake, will enter through the prominent 13th century lighthouse and marble lion, guarding as symbol over this sanctuary of peace. 

In early Roman times, Lindau was a fishing village. The first historic records date from 882 AD. Owing to its location on a main trading route, Lindau soon became a bustling trading post in the middle ages, and consequently wealthy merchants built grand gabled houses on the waterfront and town squares. Half timbered buildings lean over the narrow pedestrianised cobbled streets, and Maximilianstrasse, with its patrician houses, fountains and shaded walks, is particularly beautiful.


 

We stayed at the Lindauer Hof, located at one of Lindau’s most scenic spots – directly at the port entrance. From our room on the gabled third floor, we had a picture perfect view across the moods of the lake and the hazy mountains in a distance.

Many traditional taverns, pubs and weinstubes invite visitors to relax. We enjoyed some excellent Aufricht white wine of the local Bodensee terrior at the Zur Fischerin Galerie und Weinstube, a cute little wine bar in Ludwigstrasse.


Very similar in size and feeling to Isola di Pescatori on the Italian Maggiore Lake, Lindau can be explored on foot: stroll around Altstadt and see the Old Town Hall with its typical stepped gables and garish murals, the Diebsturm (Thieves’ Tower) and Sank Peterskirche with fine frescos depicting scenes from the Passion Play, as is also found in nearby Oberammergau.

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