“A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step”

THE FOUR SCANDINAVIAN CAPITAL CITIES - Part 2

STOCKHOLM (SWEDEN)

The capital of Sweden is built on 14 islands that form part of the Stockholm archipelago of about 24 000 big and small islands, protecting the city from the open sea. A third of the city comprises parks and woodlands, a third water, with even an urban national park where you can fish and swim! Broad boulevards lined with elegant buildings reflect in the surrounding waterways. Although is has around 780 00 inhabitants, and 1.9 million in the region, it does not create the impression of what it really is - a lively international, bustling metropolis. No wonder that the famous filmmaker, Ingmar Bergman, in an interview said the following about Stockholm: “It is ridiculous to think of it as a city. It is simply a rather large village, set in the middle of some forest and some lakes. You wonder what it thinks it is doing there, looking so important.” (In Sweden, the Rough Guide, p.54).

Gamla Stan is regarded as one of the world’s oldest, largest and best kept medieval cities. Remnants of the early settlement during the 13th century can still be found here. And when you walk around the maze of the narrow 17th and 18th century streets and alleyways, some of them no wider than an arm’s width, you get a feeling of how it might have been to live there during a long-gone period. It is as if the walls of the superbly preserved old buildings themselves whisper the story of a distant past.  

A good place to start exploring Gamla Stan is at the Parliament Building (Rijksdaghuset) on Holy Ghost Island (Helgeandsholme). When in sitting, Parliament debates can be watched from the large public gallery. A short walk over the bridge brings you to the impressive Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet). With its 608 rooms it is the world’s largest royal castle still used for its original purpose. Walk around the palace to the street Slottsbacken, from where the southern façade with its central triumphal arch and statues is the most impressive. From here you can watch the daily changing of the guards, and thereafter visit the numerous attractions inside.

On the west side of Slottsbacken, and next to the palace, is the impressive Gothic cathedral Storkyrkan. Originally dating from the 13th century, it is full of priceless treasures from different periods. A few yards around a corner from the cathedral you will enter the marvelously atmospheric heart of the area, the Main Square (Stortorget), which is quite small, but surrounded by beautiful 18th century merchant’s houses. In the centre is a well dating from 1788. From here you can lose yourself in the winding streets with their quaint shops and restaurants.

After that, if you have the time, take a short walk over the bridge to the other small island, Riddarholmen, to the majestic brick church, in which, and surrounding it, the ornate vaults containing the remains of the Swedish monarchs since the 16th century can be seen. Especially moving are those of the royal children who died prematurely.

Three churches are listed: The Rock Church (Temppeliaukio Church) is one of the most interesting examples of modern architecture in Helsinki. It was quarried out of the natural bedrock, which forms the interior walls. A glass dome allows the light to filter in. Due to its excellent acoustics the church is a popular venue for shows. Another impressive church is the Uspenski Orthodoks Cathedral, the largest of its kind in Western Europe. With its redbrick façade and golden copulas it reflects the Russian impact on Finnish history. The third church, the 150 year old Evangelical Lutheren Helsinki Cathedral, with its tall green dome surrounded by four smaller domes, is a distinct landmark located in the centre of the city, and perhaps the most recognizable building in Finland. The church is still in regular use for both worship services and special events such as weddings. We were fortunate to hear the organist playing on the majestic organ preparing for that evening’s organ recital. What a heavenly experience!    

The cathedral forms the climax of the Senate Square, surrounded by four buildings designed by the famous Finnish architect Carl Ludwig Engel, built between 1822 and 1852, forming a unique and cohesive example of the neo-classical style. Besides the Cathedral, the other buildings are the main building of the University of Helsinki, the National Library and the Government Palace.

Sea Life Helsinki, located next to the Amusement Park, exhibits fish and creatures from different oceans. Some of the species are threatened by extinction due to environmental pollution. The Korkeasaari Zoo, founded in 1889, is just as interesting. Amongst the approximately 200 animals you will see species from the tropical rainforest to the arctic tundra. There are also more than 1 000 plant species.

It depends on which time of the year you visit Helsinki. Vappu, the big spring carnival, starts on the last day of April. That evening thousands gather in the Market Square, where students will place a white graduation cap on the head of the Havis Amanda mermaid statue.

This will be cheered on by the spectators, raising their champagne glasses in a toast: Long live spring!  Everyone will wear spring clothing, whether it is warm or cold, on their way to restaurants, listening to bands playing in the streets, out in their boats or just partying. Revelers throng the streets until the small hours. Another big event is Juhannus (Midsummer), celebrated all over the country on the longest day of the year, with bonfires in every village. In Helsinki the main public celebration takes place on the museum island of Seurasaari, with activities designed to suit all ages, and with the huge bonfire burning right beside the water’s edge.

Should you want to go shopping, all of the major malls, department stores and boutiques are within walking distance of each other. The long pedestrianised shopping street, Aleksanterinkatu, leads to the Senate Square, where you will find the charming shopping gallery, the Kiseleff Bazaar, with its unique Finnish handicrafts, ceramics, hand printed textiles and souvenirs. Stockmann, which occupies a whole city block in the city centre, is the Nordic region’s largest department store.

It is interesting to note that the whole of Finland switched completely over to digital television on the 1^st of March this year! And should any young, unmarried gentleman be looking for an interesting city to visit: Almost 54 % of the inhabitants of Helsinki are women - most of them real Nordic beauties!

I have one embarrassing memory of Helsinki! One evening at a posh restaurant I wanted to order a bottle of wine for my wife and I. But when you have been on a self-drive tour of almost two months through most of Europe, you sort of become strangled between all the languages. Therefore, instead of asking for the winelist, I asked for the winelice. I will never forget the startled and bemused face of the waiter, who was quiet fluent in English! But he quite professionally brought me precisely what he knew I was asking for.

- Manie Wolvaardt
 

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