“The worst is not to fail, but to give up” - Ed Cole

MALLORCAN LANDSCAPE
The Island of a Thousand Contrasts

Beauty finds its natural ally in contrasts, its best trump card is surprise. Because of this Mallorca has been the uncut diamond of multiple facets, this undiscovered gem of the Mediterranean region.

A small piece of land lapped by the changing waters of the Mediterranean Sea, painted in an array of aquamarine and blue colours, this island offers much more than a typical island. With a population of just under a million, almost 20% are foreigners from Germany, England, the USA and the Scandinavian countries. During the peak tourism season, the population increases two-fold, and most tourists enter through the International Airport of Son Sant Joan near Palma de Mallorca.

This ancient kingdom with more than seven hundred years of existence, today still conserves the signs of identity and government originating from the 13 th century. Situated a mere 30 minutes flight east of Barcelona, this island forms together with Minorca and Ibiza the Illes Balearus, as part of Spain.

Mallorca is a place worth getting to know and return to time and time again to discover what is hidden behind its outer appearance. All Mallorca’s corners have the mark of thousands of years of history, with ancient towers and stone walls which adorn the north western Tramuntana region, irrigation channels from Islamic times, large coastal defence castles built in the time of the Crown of Aragon.

Palma de Mallorca offers visitors a wide range of possibilities: the cosmopolitan pace of its bay, its avenues and shopping areas, the historical splendour of its monuments and the intimacy of its patios and medieval streets.  

The city lies between the mountains and the sea. It is a city that ranges from the very old to the very modern, from bell towers, echoing streets, walls and convents to wide commercial avenues, big blocks of flats, shops and traffic.

Both traditional and cosmopolitan at the same time, a striking harmony exists between shades of light: no coincidence that so many artists have painted the various faces of the Mallorcan capitol. This is a city of experience and image! The Fundació Pilar I Joan Miró is the fruit of the generosity of the expressionist painter, who worked and died in Mallorca.

The Gothic basilica, La Seu Cathedral, is the island’s most important historical building; an apotheosis of space and light. Recently it has fully caught up with the 21^st century, thanks to the creativity of the artist, Barceló. A ceramic skin covers 300 square metres as it unfolds the magic of an artistic genius: epitomising scenes from the New Testament.

Just opposite, the Almudaina Palace conserves the memory of the kings of Mallorca. This was once a Moorish citadel that is believed to have occupied the site of the nucleus of the Roman city, dating back to 123 B.C. And from Bellver Castle one can gaze over the city, spread out like an urban carpet next to the sea. This original circular castle, with three semicircular towers, dominates the horizon on the edge of the city.

The island of Mallorca is a compendium of Mediterranean landscapes. It has coves that are more “Greek” than the very Aegean beaches themselves. Its forests, spilling down into the sea, have the obscure charm of the Adriatic. There are peaceful, fertile plains, prided over by elegant stately homes, which uncannily bring Tuscany to mind. Mountains capped by snow in winter months, like in Corsica. And dry, stony areas, as in Africa. All of this on a human scale, in proportion and easily accessible.

The local people of Mallorca are tolerant towards outsiders; they are sentimental, devoted and emotional to their homeland. Their protocol is still rural: based on good faith, honour and their word.

The reality of the island imposes a pace of life which is very much in keeping with the cycles of nature. The density of light, the wealth of colours, the ancient sense of the traditions, all contribute to a very special perception indeed, light years removed from the continental way of life. Those who are capable of discovering and enjoying it are reborn, so to speak. Mallorca is a fullness of the senses. And anything full always requires a certain slowness of pace.

The most scenic region of Mallorca is Tramuntana, the north-western mountain region, Serra de Tramuntana. Although previously not easily accessible, it today hosts a range of majestic rural towns, each with its own character and beauty: Banyalbufar, the village of terraces; Deià, a haven for artists; Sóller, the valley of oranges; Valldemossa, displaying secular peace; and Fornalutx, a mountain heritage.

Sharing a comfortable three-level house on the village’s edge, with our friends from Denmark, Hakon and Lisa Kofoed and their daughter, Leonora, offered us all the comfort and enjoyment of a most relaxing time!

Nestling on the mountainside of Puig Major to the northeast of the Valle de Sóller, this village has kept its valuable architectural heritage, integrated into the mountain landscape, virtually intact.

Cobbled, narrow, winding streets reveal a village with charm and tranquillity: a small corner store selling the essentials, a tapas bar, a bakery providing fresh bread daily and a village church, announcing every hour, all are located around a peaceful shaded village square: the meeting place of the locals after siesta-time until late at night.

One typical day out is a visit to Sóller: Surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains, the town is full of history and heritage with some excellent art collections of both Picasso and Miró. A trip on the wooden tram between Sóller and Port de Sóller takes some fifteen minutes. A stroll along the harbour side and waterfront is almost a walk down memory lane: small little antique shops and an array of interesting restaurants, overlooking the display of luxurious yachts of the rich and the famous.

One of the most charming spots along the coast line is Sa Calobra, a small inlet situated next to the mouth of the giant Torrent de Pareis gorge. This craggy coast seems a landscape of giants, excessive in scale and romantic in nature. To reach this secluded sanctuary, you have to be brave at heart and face the extreme winding narrow road with hairpin bends and sheer cliffs on the one side. Another way to reach this natural wonder is by boat from Port de Sóller.

A pilgrimage visit to the Monastir de Lluc, en route to Pollença, is worth the while. Not as impressive a location as the monastery of Montserrat, north of Barcelona, the visit was made special by the performance of the boys’ choir during a mass in the Cathedral.

The El Cap de Formentor peninsula is the northernmost point of the island of Mallorca: the character of the landscape is rugged, with a balance between rocky mountains, empty sea and an almost never-ending horizon.

The peninsula gets narrower and narrower until it turns into a winding mountain that ends at the lighthouse, from where one can see the mountains of Catalonia in a far distance.

En route to the Coves del Drac, a visit to the renown pearl outlets of Manacor, is a must. You are offered a choice of all sizes and qualities of cultured pearls. The Dragon Caves are one of Mallorca’s treasures. They feature an attractive array of dripstones, as well as a vast labyrinth of tunnels of about 2 kilometres in length, ending in the Lago Martel, Europe’s largest underground lake; a violin concerto and a cruise on the lake is the highlight of the excursion.

The central Es Raiguer region is home to both Inca, known for the various leather outlets and Binissalem, associated with the Festa d’Es Vermar or grape harvest festival. It takes place in the spacious main town square every year during September, with folk-dancing, traditional singing and freely flowing wine. This small country town is the centre of the island’s wine-making industry. It dates back to the Roman times and later survived the Moorish occupation.

“Follow me to an island where calm reigns supreme” wrote the Catalan artist, Santiago Rusinyol in his famous poem on Mallorca. This is a tempting invitation to discover “the other Mallorca”: It is these contrasts, combined with delicious local cuisine of lamb and pork dishes as well as friendly folk, which make this island such a fascinating destination.

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