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“It is not enough to say I have been there. A voyage is not just a journey, it’s a period carved out of time, when the impossible can happen”

Newsletter 70  |  August 2007

P.O. Box 13600, NOORDSTAD, 9302          E-mail: info@etniquetravel.co.za
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Featured Article:
 

FLY HIGH, FLY LOW OR FLY BY NIGHT?

 

This month sees our 70 th edition of @ ETCETERA, and still, we are flying high! When we started Etnique Travel ten years ago in a small cramped ten square meter premise at Baysvillage Shopping Centre, we only had one vision: to fill a gap in the market by providing a specialised travel service focusing on personalised detail based on actual travel experience.

We grew through loyal customers, moved twice to bigger premises, appointed new members to our team, but without ever losing that special personal touch and travel expertise.

         We believe in our employees as our biggest asset: Nerina joined Etnique way back at our humble beginning in 1997. Since then Maquida, Tiana, Christa, Tessa, Manie, Marié,  Persi, Yolandé, Holly, Melanie, Madelize and Lizelle joined the Etnique family. We are of the opinion that the advantage of a well equipped team is by far superior to the sum of individual’s inputs. We therefore afford each one of our team, as much as possible, and the opportunity of international travel exposure. We appreciate their loyalty towards our clients, their work and special family.

We are all dedicated, as part of a winning team, to walk that extra mile with every customer; besides selling specials on flight tickets or accommodation, we would rather share a special travel experience and thus make a dream come true…

Getting together is a beginning - Staying together is a process
Working together is enjoyment - Winning together is success

- Johann Beukes

Travel Stories:
 

ROCKYMOUNTAINS MAJESTY -

Gateway to the Canadian natural wonder-world

 
   

The dramatic beauty of British Columbia and Alberta is internationally renowned for its spectacular mountain scenery of snow-capped ranges, valleys, glaciers lakes and forests. The landscape varies from the northern Rockies with its bare peaks to the southern region of Okanagan Valley with its orchards and vineyards.

One can enjoy the passing changing landscape by train or by car; we had the privilege of both: a two-day journey leaving Vancouver on the western coast of Canada, by five star Rocky Mountaineer train coach en route Kamloops for an overnight stay, and onto Jasper on the second day; followed by a four day road journey following the Icefields and Bow Valley Parkways from Jasper in the north to Banff in the south.

   

We travelled onboard the Goldleaf Rocky Mountaineer which features impeccable service, excellent dining including local wines and reclining seats on an elegant bi-level dome coach.

Departing from Canada’s third largest city Vancouver to
Kamloops in the heart of British Columbia’s interior, we were lucky enough to be the last train to leave after heavy torrential rains resulted in flooding of the low lying regions. The trip onboard takes you through seven mountain ranges, dozens of bridges and tunnels and alongside numerous waterfalls, lakes and river valleys. To ensure that the dramatic vistas are fully enjoyed, the train travels at an enjoyable pace and only operates in daylight, giving you plenty of time to marvel at the scenery, wildlife and engineering accomplishments of pioneering railroaders. The train journey terminates at Jasper, northern entrance to the Canadian Rockies National Parks.

   

The region consists of about five connecting parks, of which the Japer National Park is the largest. One can either take a light aircraft flip to get a most wonderful aerial view of the uniqueness of this particular part of the Rockies, or you can go up the tramway up Whistlers Mountain for a refreshing hike of the summit and spectacular panoramic views of the snowcapped peaks and the dark green valleys far below, each containing its own mirror-like lake. The hour’s detour drive to Maligne Lake and the boat cruise to Spirit Island are well worth the effort

   

Leaving Jasper behind, we travelled south on route 93, passed the Athabasca Falls, plunging into a narrow ravine, similar to our own Bourke’s Potholes back home.

Centuries of water-erosion has contributed to the rock silhouettes, visible from numerous vantage points. When the Athabasca Glacier carved out the valley, it failed to erode the resistant step of quartzite over which the falls cascade. The churning force of the falls testifies that while the wilderness may at times seem serene, it is anything but
tame!  

   

A little further on the route, the Sunwapta Falls greet the onlooker as a cascading curtain drop of falls. Totally different from the Athabasca, these lively cascades resembles the many similar falls found in Iceland: unpretentious, but strikingly beautiful.

The Columbia Icefield, a mass of ice on the boundary of Jasper and Banff Parks, lies at the hydro graphic apex of North America. Astride the Continental Divide, these enormous ice fields are referred to as the mother of rivers, feeding the Athabasca, Columbia, Fraser and Saskatchewan River systems of Canada. The Athabasca Glacier is one of the eight outlet valley glaciers that flow from the Columbia Icefields, and most accessible next to the highway. In the course of time the glacial movements have formed vast crevasses in the ice.

   

Still largely wilderness, the Rockies is inhabited by a large variety of fauna and flora. Even along the roads we encountered black bear, elk, moose and coyote. Plant life varies greatly due to drastic changes in elevation. Natural forests form the backdrop of an ever-changing habitat. It is only when you stop, that you become aware of the diverse beauty of plant detail and a multi-colour array of wild flowers.

Canada’s first and most famous national park, Banff, encompasses impressive peaks, scenic river valleys and the popular resort towns of Lake Louise and Banff.

   

Lake Louise, the turquoise-colour lake which is synonymous with the Rockies, needs no introduction. The glacier-laden Mount Victoria, which forms the backdrop décor to Lake Louise, was described as the big snow mountain above the lake in which you see the world.  The world renowned Chateau Lake Louise, a 1000 bed luxury hotel built by the Railway Company at the beginning of the previous century, sits like a bastion on the one side of the lake.

However, we preferred the far less ostentatious 10 bed-roomed Moraine Lake Lodge (designed by the Vancouver architect Arthur Erickson), nestled among pine trees facing the lake at the end of a gravel road. 

   

Tranquillity, home prepared food, good wine, natural beauty, changing colours of the mirror-like lake, all ensure the stay of a life time. Ample scenic trails make this haven in the Valley of the Ten Peaks, an ideal base to explore the central region of the Rockies. To name a few, Consolation Valley, pinnacle called the Tower of Babel, Larch Valley and Sentinel Pass. This lake, much smaller and far less visited than Louise, occupies a splendid site below the sheer walls of the Wenckchemna peaks, and even a more intense blue-green hue. No scene has given me an equal impression of inspiring solitude and rugged grandeur.

   

Inspired by the beauty of the park’s mountains, lakes, waterfalls and distinctive rock formations, the Yoho National Park was named for the Cree word meaning awe and wonder. This park offers a wide range of outdoor activities, focused on the adrenaline junkie, for instance rock climbing, hiking, boating and skiing. Famous landmarks include the Emerald Lake, Natural Bridge, Lake O’Hara and the impressive Takakkaw Falls.

Although this rocky wonder world has numerous mountain peaks, valleys and lakes, each one addresses you in a different distinct language through its unique beauty and atmosphere – a place that you would like to return to in years to come…

- Johann Beukes

Travel Stories:
 

MONACO - Small Jewel on the Mediterranean

 

We arrived in Monaco by car in torrential rain – whilst brochures boasted that this tiny sovereign state “enjoys a particularly mild climate, with more than 300 days of sunshine per year”! My wife had her work cut out navigating us through this densely built-up area finding a parking garage. But when we exited the garage, the weather has cleared up, and a beautiful day beckoned us to explore this fascinating destination. And then we discovered that Monaco is a must for any traveler finding himself in that part of Europe.

Monaco is a constitutional monarchy established in the 12th century by the Grimaldi family. Today Prince Albert II, succeeding his father Prince Rainier, who passed away in 2005, reigns over the Principality.  Situated at the heart of Mediterranean Europe, tucked into the Maritime Alps, the surface area of this narrow coastal strip is a mere 494 acres, with a width varying between approximately 1 km. and a mere 340 m., sometimes rising almost vertically upwards for 150 m.

It lies only 20 km. from Nice International Airport and close by to the French and Italian Rivieras. By car the A8 highway serves the Principality by means of easy access roads. But if you don’t want to drive on your own, helicopter and bus services, as well as taxis provide permanent links between Nice and the Principality. The helicopter service from the airport, for example, is scheduled every 20 minutes, with the duration of the flight only 6 minutes. The population consists of a mere 32 000 inhabitants, of which only about 8 000 are born Monégasques. However it provides work for about 44 000 people, so that every day more than 20 000 French and 6 000 Italians come into Monaco for work. It was in this bustling world that we found ourselves.

Our car was parked at the Hotel Ambassador, in the new district called Fontvieille, literally created from land reclaimed from the sea. Our first concern was how we would be able to visit the different attractions. It is not possible to just drive around, or even walk from one area to another, because some of the areas can only be reached through tunnels cut through the rock, not open to pedestrians. But then we discovered that the entire Monaco is serviced by seven permanent bus routes, visiting the Principality’s most attractive zones. You can just hop on or off for a small fee wherever you want. And then there are seven public elevators currently in use, which take you to the different levels and terraces.

But before boarding a bus, we walked the small distance to the Princes Grace Rose Garden, created in 1984 by Prince Rainier in memory of his wife. This secluded spot of solemn beauty boasts immaculately kept patches of the most beautiful roses of different colours and fragrances.

Thereafter one of the bus routes took us along the Boulevard Albert I alongside the Port de Monaco, where hundreds of yachts of all sizes are moored, from small sailing boats to multi-decked passenger ships and intercontinental liners - an indication of the importance of Monaco as a premier luxury tourist destination. On the other side of the boulevard high-rise buildings and villas clinging to the steep slopes also echo the exclusivity of the surroundings.

A next bus took us all the way up the Rock, which overlooks the harbour, and on which the world famous Oceanographic Museum, the Neo-Romanesque Cathedral, and the Palace of the Prince is to be found, all within a short walking distance of one another. The Oceanographic Museum was founded in 1899 by Prince Albert I, who devoted himself entirely to scientific research, especially of ocean life. One of its directors has been Commander Jacques Cousteau, famous for his exploration of the oceans. The more than 70 sections exhibit fish and oceanic life from all the seas of the earth. The new exhibition of a living coral bed on the sea floor is most interesting. From the upper deck of the Museum you have a marvelous view of the port and the city, with the casino complex of Monte-Carlo visible across the bay. The Cathedral (dating from 1875) holds interesting decorations, amongst others a large mosaic depicting the Virgin. In the ambulatory are buried the princess who have reigned over Monaco, as well as Princess Grace.

At the Palace we were lucky to be on time for the traditional changing of the guards. Different sections of the palace is open to the public, such as the Great Rooms, which you enter via the Gallery of the Mirrors. Of particular interest is the Throne Room, where official ceremonies are held. It was in this room that the civil wedding of Prince Rainier and Princess Grace took place. On the canopy covering the throne is inscribed the Grimaldi family motto, Deo Juvante (With the help of God).

Also surely not to be missed, is the Golden Square of the Principality, where you will find the most famous casino (1863) in the world, the Hotel de Paris (1854) and the Café de Paris (1868). The vestibule of the casino is decorated with numerous columns and bronze statues. On one side of the entrance hall are the gaming rooms. The south wing contains the Salle Garnier Opera House, home of the Opera of Monte Carlo which has, since its creation in 1879, gained international fame. Composers and authors such as Bizet, Frank or Massenet wrote some of their works especially for this opera house. The well known Monte Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra, led by many great conductors, from Richard Strauss to Toscanini, and Leonard Bernstein to Lorin Maazel, also performs here. Leaving the casino, you can admire its south front, at the foot of which hanging gardens look out over the sea. Recent renovations has restored the buildings to the splendour of times gone by.

Many international events are held annually in Monaco, such as the International Circus Festival (January), the World Music Awards (March), the Monte-Carlo International Tennis Championships (April), the Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix (May), and the International Fireworks Display (July - August).

Initially we were unsure of taking off a day or two from our trip to Provence. And I was a little bit nervous about driving into the city by car. But now I can declare without doubt that this visit was more than worth-while. One of the brochures on Monaco concludes with these words so applicable from Shakespeare’s Richard II (Act II): “ ‘This fortress built by Nature for herself against infection and the hand of war … This happy breed of men, this little world; This precious stone set in the silver sea … This blessed plot, this earth …’, this Principality.”  (Editorial Fisa Escudo De Oro).

- Manie Wolvaardt

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Airports Company (ACSA) for increasing its passenger service charges by almost 50% as from October 2007!
 

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