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“Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out”

Newsletter 67  |  May 2007

P.O. Box 13600, NOORDSTAD, 9302          E-mail: info@etniquetravel.co.za
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Featured Article:
 

 

 

During the last few months we are aware of an exiting new ”vibe” in our office - as if something stimulating and fresh has been added to our daily activities. And this is indeed the case! Contemplating on the reasons for this, I think it undoubtedly stems from our concentrated efforts trying to adapt to the fast changing world of travel.

The whole scenario of the role of a travel agent has changed dramatically from just seeking for the best offers available, issuing tickets, assisting with the acquirement of visas, etc. Now a travel agent must be a real specialist, an adviser, a travel guide, someone who can offer exceptional service to the discerning traveller.

We have joined Sure Travel, the largest travel consortium in South Africa, with state-of-the–art knowledge and vast experience. Subsequently we consciously enhance our skills and knowledge in anticipation of the new world in which we have to compete. We attend seminars, upgraded our technology, imported new software, appointed extra knowledgeable staff, reorganized our responsibilities, and assigned exciting new specialist terrains to our consultants. This, together with our formidable resources, like our unique and extensive travel library, as well as the wide and personal travel experience of our enthusiastic staff, led to this visible assuredness of our team that they have been empowered to offer more than just the normal services.

It is a rewarding experience to be an integral part of such a unique team, and feel that you are part of the new world of travel services - in which you have to adapt, or undoubtedly die. 

- Manie Wolvaardt

Travel Stories:
 

SPECIAL PLACES:  Part 2

 

In our first article in this series (March 2007) we included a historical site (Petra in Jordan), a natural wonder (the Blautopf in Germany), a religious centre (Santiago de Compostello in Spain), and a foreign country (the tiny Kingdom of Bhutan). In this article we look at two modern marvels, a less well-known great city, and its famous cathedral and castle.

Modern marvels: The highest as well as one of the longest cable-stayed bridges in the world

The Millau Viaduct in France

When you near the Millau Viaduct over the River Tarn in the Massif Central mountains of Southern France, especially early in the morning with the mist still swirling in the valley below, you begin to understand why about 500 000 sightseers per year come to admire what is regarded as one of the engineering wonders of the modern world. This bridge truly enables motorists to ”drive through the sky, often above the clouds”, as one traveler described it.

And that is precisely what you should do! Driving with clouds beneath you, obscuring the valley below, creates an unreal sense of floating to the other side.  All that you see in this void, is the traffic around you, and the masts anchoring the cables passing by. Then you stop at the parking space so that you can take your superb photos, and if you have enough time, wait for the mist to disperse. If not, come back on a clear day in order to really see the magic of this majestic bridge.

   

The viaduct carries vehicles across a 2.5 km. valley, removing a bottleneck at the town of Millau on the highway linking Paris and the Mediterranean. The bridge is one of the most breathtaking ever built. Normally bridges are considered to belong to the engineer’s realm rather than the architect. But the Millau Viaduct illustrates how the architect can play an integral role in bridge design. The renowned British architect, Lord Norman Foster, who is behind the design, said he designed the bridge to have the ”delicacy of a butterfly”.

Seven slender piers support the roadway, rising into seven graceful pylons bound to the bridge with what looks like cobwebs of  steel. The bridge has the optimum span between stayed columns. It is delicate, transparent, and uses the minimum material. Each of its sections spans 350 meters, and its columns range in height form 75 meters to 235 meters – higher than the Eiffel Tower – with the masts rising a further 90 meters above the road deck. To accommodate the expansion and contraction of the concrete deck, each column splits into two thinner, more flexible columns below the roadway, forming an A-frame above deck level, creating a dramatic silhouette.

When Pres. Jacques Chirac inaugurated the bridge in December 2004, the mayor of Millau said: ”Norman Foster gave us a model of art.” And that surely is an apt description of this must-see modern marvel!

The Øresund Link between Sweden and Denmark

Denmark and Sweden were once linked with one another. But at the end of the Ice Age, about 7 000 years ago, the rising sea levels severed the dry-land connection between the two, forming what has become known as the Øresund Sound. Politically the two lands are also separated since 1658, when Sweden conquered Scania, southern Sweden, from Denmark. The bridge-tunnel link across the Øresund Sound, connecting the Danish capital Copenhagen to the Swedish port of Malmö, opened on 1 July 2000, representing a symbolic reunion of these two countries.


 

 

This 16 km. long link is not only one of the largest infrastructure projects in European history, but also one of the most impressive man-made structures in the world. It is the longest combined road and rail bridge in Europe, boasting one of the longest cable-stayed main spans in the world. Instead of the one-hour ferry trip, one is now able to cover the distance in as little as 10 minutes on high-speed trains. However, the best way to experience this wonder of modern times is to drive by car, especially if you start from Malmö.

You enter the Link by way of a four-lane motorway on to the upper deck of the 7.8 km. long cable-stayed bridge. Trains roll across the lower deck. Although not nearly as high as the Millau, the experience of driving high above the waves on this gently right-curving structure is just as breathtaking – especially if you are the passenger, and not the driver, who might be a little afraid of taking their eyes off the road!  At the end of the bridge you reach a 4 km. long artificial island, called Pepperholm.

From this island you drive into an underwater tunnel, also about 4 km. long, before exiting  along a 430-meter-long artificial peninsula at Kastrup on the Danish coast, prior to  entering Copenhagen.

Building this awesome structure took five years. When it was opened Denmark’s Queen Margrethe and Sweden’s King Carl Gustav were among the 10 000 invited guests. Hundreds of millions of TV viewers across the world watched the inauguration ceremony.

If you love driving by car, and have an affinity for things extraordinary, I would undoubtedly, recommend that you fit this into your itinerary. The experience of driving along the Øresund Link, as well as the Millau Viaduct will be engraved on your memories as some of your most thrilling experiences of travelling.

Great cities:  Kracow

To me, Krakow is one of Europe’s most enchanting cities. I agree with the travel writer, Scott Simpson, when he described it as follows: “The magic and mystery of Krakow lurks in every brick of its Gothic mansions, in the echoing halls of its ancient Jagiellonian University, in the empty spaces of its synagogues. It is in the mist that rises from the Blonia fields in the morning and the peculiar quality of moonlight over her cobblestone streets. It is in the whispering murmur of the Vistula river and the secret silence of its limestone cliffs.” (In Krakow, by Thomas Cook Publishing)

For centuries Krakow was the capital of Poland, the seat of kings, drawing great scholars and artists from over the world. Due to their talents and imagination a vast collection of unique historical relics and works of art (2.3 million!) is to be seen here.  Thanks to this extraordinary accumulation of cultural wealth the centre of the city was registered as an important site on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The main reason for the preservation of these treasures is that the city survived the last war unscathed, and you will encounter a multitude of architectural monuments - estimated at 6 000 buildings and other structures. Even the modern era has had little impact: the spires of old churches  forms the city’s skyline, not skyscrapers.

Although no longer the capital of Poland, Krakow nevertheless represents a synthesis of all things Polish, where tradition entwines with modern times wherever you go. It is impossible to describe even a small portion of the tourist attractions, and each tourist will discover his or her own ”magical” sight. However, I regard the following as not to be missed. The city is best seen on foot. Start in the Old Town, with Europe’s second largest medieval square, the Main Market Square, in the middle (Only St  Mark’s Square in Venice is larger). You enter through Florian’s Gate (Brama Florianska), the only gate in the remaining city walls with fortifications dating from the 13th century. These walls surrounded the inner city, but were replaced in the 19th century by a green belt (called the Planty), which today marks the border of the no-traffic zone. The square’s layout was drawn up in 1257, and has been retained intact. Today it seethes with life all year round, and you will be overwhelmed by the many restaurants, bars and cafes crowding its edges, with beer gardens and a flower market within. Surrounding the square you will find many interesting galleries, museums and splendid Renaissance and Baroque houses and mansions.

Set in the centre of the square is the imposing Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), which replaces an earlier Gothic trade hall. It dates from the 14th century, but was beautifully rebuilt during the Renaissance. Today the ground floor is filled with souvenir shops and cafes, whilst the Gallery of Polish Painting is accommodated on the upper floor. Not far away you will see St. Mary’s Church, with its two soaring Gothic towers of different design. Be sure to listen to the famous unfinished trumpet call (the Hejnal) which can be heard hourly in memory of a medieval trumpeter who warned the sleeping city of an invasion, but who was shot while sounding the alarm. The hejnal is broadcast on Polish Radio every day at noon. The pentagonal Baroque porch at the main entrance of the church is impressive, also the main altar, the largest medieval altar in existence, as a masterpiece of late-Gothic carving. The exceptional number of works of art contained within this great basilica leaves you enriched. 

Other attractions within the Market Square that can be mentioned, are the Historical Museum, the lonely Town Hall Tower next to the Cloth Hall, the domed St. Adabert’s Church in the southern corner, its beginnings dating from the 10th century, and the Statue of Adam Mickiewicz, a few steps north of the church.

Dependent of what your interests are, you can take different walks inside or outside the Old Town, like the Royal Way, from Florian’s Gate up to the Wavel Hill, or a stroll along the Planty, the green ring of gardens with its numerous monuments, around the Old Town; you can perhaps visit the old Jewish Quarter, the Kazimierz, with its narrow streets, abundance of markets, synagogues and cementaries, or the University Quarter, where you will find the Jagiellonian University, founded in 1399, the oldest and largest of Krakow’s 17 universities, with nearly 40 000 students and hundreds of buildings across the city.


 
 

But you can also concentrate on specific interests, like the 87 palaces, 143 churches and monastries, 43 museums or the typical Patricien and Burger Houses (the Kamienica). Also worth a visit are the 112 parks,  public gardens and green boulevards. But perhaps you would like to immerse yourself in the art scene of Krakow - there you will find galleries on every street of the Old Town an the Kazimierz, with less formal exhibitions in many restaurants, hotels and bars.

Should you wish to go on short excursions, a grim destination is the Aushwitz-Birkenau State Museum in Oswiecim, some 50 km. west of Krakow. This is where the largest German consentration camp was, possibly the most moving sight in Poland, which has become a symbol of the Holocaust and Nazi war crimes. Take note that children under 13 are not admitted and be prepared for the strong emotional impact that the exhibits might provoke on you.

Another unforgettable excursion is to the salt mines in Wieliczka, 15 km. south-east of the city centre, and included in UNESCO’s World Heritage Register. Over 300 000 people yearly visit this remarkable mine which is still in operation for over 700 years. It has a subterranean labyrinth of tunnels, 300 km. long, distributed over 9 levels, going down to a depth of 327 metres. A part of this has been opened to the public as a museum. You walk through an eerie world of pits and chambers, all hewn out from solid salt. Some have been made into chapels, even a full-blown church, with chandeliers and altars. Others are adorned with monuments and statues - and there are even underground lakes!   

Cathedrals and castles: Wavel Hill

There are thousands of cathedrals and palaces all over Europe, but for me the majestic complex of Gothic and Renaissance buildings on Wavel Hill, that forms part of the Old Town of Krakow, is unique. The Royal Castle was built from 1506 – 1548 by King Zygmunt I, who brought in some of the best native and foreign artists and architects, to create this stately Renaissance palace-cum-castle. 

The Royal Chambers, restored in their original Renaissance and early Baroque style and crammed with works of art, are for me the most interesting. The most valuable are the 136 magnificent tapestries, probably the largest collection of its kind in Europe. In the Royal Private Apartments with its period furniture and art, you will see how the Polish royalty lived. The Crown Treasury and Armory contains the coronation insignia of the Kingdom of Poland, jewels and precious weapons and armors. The collection in the section called Art of the Orient includes trophies of war, diplomatic gifts from far-off monarchs and trade goods. The Lost Wavel exhibits interesting archaeological and architectural treasures.

The famous Cathedral, built from 1320 - 64, was for centuries the place where Polish kings were crowned. Almost all were buried in the chapels and crypts, together with the greatest national heroes, poets, four saints and numerous bishops. This was also the seat formerly held by Archbishop Karol Wojtyla from 1963 until his election as Pope John Paul II in 1978.

The roof boasts three towers, one of which contains one of the world’s largest bells, the great Zygmunt Bell, cast in 1522. Its beautifully deep toll can be heard on special occasions. The cathedral itself is a Gothic structure, but in the course of time 18 different chapels full of art treasures were built around it. The most notable is the Sigismund Chapel with its gilded dome, one of the finest examples of Renaissance art and architecture. Marble statues and magnificent silver altar pieces can be seen. The Cathedral Treasury holds numerous precious objects, including a 1000 year old spear, whilst in the Cathedral Museum various historical and religious objects collected through the centuries can be seen. Krakow, with its numerous special sights, is a city to be visited more than once!

- Manie Wolvaardt

   
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Travel Tips:
   

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