“In the middle of difficulty lies opportunity” - Albert Einstein

Newsletter 57  |  June 2006

P.O. Box 13600, NOORDSTAD, 9302          E-mail: info@etniquetravel.co.za
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Through our monthly newsletter, @ETCETERA, we have travelled the world, seen many exotic places and visited remote destinations. If you have missed some of the many interesting places, we invite you to visit our website and browse through the lists of travel marvels:

• Natural wonders like the Iguaçu Falls, Yosemite, Ayers’Rock, Torres del Paine, Ngorongoro, Mount Fuji, Geiringer Fjord, Milford Sound, Briksdal Glacier, Great Barrier Reef, Gorges du Verdon, Grand Canyon and Great Ocean Road.

• Man-made wonders of the world for example the Great Pyramids, the Stonehenge, Millau Viaduct, and Hoover Dam.

• Architectural masterpieces of the world for instance, Taj Mahal, Sydney Opera House, Notre Dame du Haut, Winter Palace, Guggenheim Museum, Sagrada Familia, Reichstag, and Alhambra.

• Gem like little towns and villages: San Gimignano, Motovun, Szentendre, Collioure, Miltenberg, Trogir, Rocomadour, Carcassonne, Moustiers Sainte-Marie, Brugge and Ghent

• Wine regions of the world: Chiante-Tuscany, Loire, Napa Valley, Marlborough, Hunter Valley, Piedmont, Bordeaux and Alsace

• Vibrant cities like Tokyo, St Petersburg, Hong Kong, Rio de Janeiro, Prague, Kobenhavn and Las Vegas.          

• And many more to dream about …

Enjoy your armchair journey!

- Johann Beukes

Travel Stories:

Great Gardens of Europe

Some of the most rewarding places to be included in a traveller’s itinerary are gardens. They range from small and intimate to overwhelmingly large and grandiose. But all of them have a special quality; sometimes a serene tranquility or magical vista, often unexpected surprises, secluded corners, bubbling springs or patches of colour or shade, where the visitor may relax or ponder over the marvels of nature and the ingenuity of man who created such havens. Quite often the most impressive gardens are those of royal palaces, but some of them are independent creations inviting the wanderer to explore its beauty and splendour. In this short article I want to introduce you to three of them which have made an indelible impression on my mind: the gardens of Schloss Schönbrunn (Schönbrunn Palace) in Vienna, Austria, the Het Loo Palace in the Netherlands, and the gardens of Ilnacullin (Garnish Island) on the southwest coast of Ireland.

Schloss Schönbrunn

It is said that Emperor Matthias in the 17^th-century discovered a "beautiful fountain" (Schöner Brunnen) here. Eventually the summer palace of the Habsburgs, commissioned by the Empress Maria Theresa, was laid out in 1696 and built between 1743 - 1749. From within these walls the Habsburgs ruled the lands of the Austrian-Hungary Monarchy. The palace witch itself is a marvel of the Baroque style, whilst the staterooms echo the Rococo. Of the 1441 rooms, 40 are open to the public. Since it lies well within Vienna’s city boundaries it is no wonder that Schönbrunn is one of Austria’s prime tourist sights. But it is not only the palace itself that since 1779 draws the visitors, but also the magnificent and intriguing gardens. Here, in the dreamlike atmosphere of a history stretching back for centuries, you will wander through the majestic beauty of this symphony of colour and form, covering an area of about four times the size of the Vatican.

The view of the palace’s Baroque symmetry from the main gate, is only a faint preparation for the breathtaking view of what is regarded by many as one of the finest set pieces in all Europe and one of the supreme achievements of Baroque gardening, still kept immaculately intact as it was a century or two ago. Formal garden promenades shoot off diagonally, the one on the left in the direction of a rock-mounted obelisk and an astonishing false Roman ruin, the one to the right to the excellent zoo - the oldest surviving one in the world (established 1752). In the centre of this frame stands the enchanting fountain of Neptune surrounded by nymphs, water gods taming wild horses and fabulous sea creatures, with the carefully planted screen of trees at the back; beyond it the view stretches up the grass-covered hill to the crowning architectural feature of the palace gardens, the Gloriette, a triple-arched triumphal monument with sweeping staircases.

From the top of this landmark one can enjoy a panoramic view over the gardens and the city. Walking back to the distant palace, following the zigzag path downhill, picture-book views of the main building are to be seen.
 

In between these features you will be enchanted by the beauty of the symmetrical layout of the colourful garden contrasting with the intricacy of the Rococo style, and the numerous marble statues depicting figures and motives from antiquity scattered around the gardens in various secluded corners. The rows of espalier trees, which reach up to a height of 12 meters, with a total length of 30 km., have always been trimmed using traditional gardening methods. Walking past the flower sculptures will bring you to the Butterfly House, where soft-winged beauties fly free in the tropical environment of orchids, and other floral displays. To the west is the Palm House, the largest glass-house in Europe, containing rare plants from all over the world.

Het Loo

Paleis Het Loo (Het Loo Palace) situated in the woodlands of Apeldoorn in the heart of the Netherlands, about 80 km. to the east of Amsterdam, was the favourite summer residence of the royal family from 1686 to 1975. After that the buildings and the gardens were spectacularly restored returning them to their original 17^th-century state, and now serves as a museum and visitor centre. The palace with its interiors dating from William and Mary up to the reign of Queen Wilhelmina, reflects the lifestyles of the members of the family of the Dutch House of Orange-Nassau over three centuries.

The wings with their permanent exhibitions of historical objects, documents, paintings, china, silver, royal garments and court costumes present a picture of the ties of the royal family with the Netherlands. One of the biggest collections of international orders and decorations in the world is housed here. The royal stables house various types of carriages, including the famous wagon in which queen Wilhelmina went out on painting excursions.
 

The Baroque gardens comprise the Lower Garden, bordered by terraces on three sides, the Queens Garden to the east, the adjoining Upper Garden and the King’s Garden to the west of the palace. The spring and summer planting of the baroque garden parterres surrounded by terraces, pergolas, statues and vases, are unique in Europe. Just as in the seventeenth century, the fountains and cascades are always playing. The gardens can be reached from the lower floor of the palace. As you enter the Lower Garden from the top of the terrace, you have a beautiful view of the symmetry of the gardens. On either side of the flight of steps leading down to the garden stand sculptures symbolizing the Rhine and the IJssel, the two rivers between which the Het Loo is situated. This garden consists mainly of eight square parterres arranged in a double row of four pairs. The inner four have an elaborate 'embroidered' design. All the parterres are bordered by beds of flowering plants and pyramid-trimmed yew and juniper between more boxwood edges.

From here you continue in an easterly direction along the terrace to the Queen’s Garden. This was the private garden of Queen Mary; therefore, the perennial plants in the flowerbeds are principally 'feminine' flowers such as columbines and lilies, traditional symbols of the Virgin Mary. In the summertime exotic plants, like laurel, pomegranate, olive, myrtle, fig and oleander in tubs and casks are set out here.

In the Upper Garden different fountains offer a spectacular display. One of them is in the fan-like form of a peacock’s tail. This garden is focused on the Colonades, quadrants of spaced columns. Walking from here to the King’s Garden, you encounter a number of fountains, like the Fountain of the Terrestial Globe, and another containing an image of the young hero, Hercules. In the King’s Garden the flowers correspond to the hangings in Prince William’s bedchamber, namely orange and blue, symbolizing Orange and Nassau.

The restoration of the gardens of Het Loo represents a recreation of one of the summits of Dutch / Baroque garden art, and gives us a faithful impression of the richness of this aspect of Dutch 17^th-century culture.

Ilnacullin

Located in the sheltered harbour of Glengarriff in Bantry Bay, in southwest Ireland, Ilnacullin is a small island of 15 hectares (37 acres) known to horticulturists and lovers of trees and shrubs all around the world as an island garden of rare beauty. The gardens owe their existence to the creative partnership, some seventy years ago, of Annan Bryce, then owner of the island and Harold Pero, architect and garden designer.

Ilnacullin is renowned for its richness of plant form and colour, changing continuously with the seasons. We greatly enjoyed the hundreds of cultivars of climbing plants, herbaceous perennials and choice shrubs dominating the midsummer period from June to August. Because of the sheltered position of the island and the warming oceanic influence of the Gulf Stream, the island is in some respects almost subtropical, and the climate is favourable to the growth of ornamental plants from many parts of the world.
 

A self-guiding tour of the garden island consists of thirteen numbered stops, where descriptions of the interesting plants and other features can be found in the guide-book. It is not possible to describe all of them. Therefore I’m  mentioning just the one which was my favourite, namely the so-called Italian garden. Here the formal architectural garden with beautifully placed red coloured colonnades, flights of steps, marble slabs from Carrera, terraces and pools, all blend well with the natural setting. The plants that adorn this part of the garden are rich and varied. The borders contain selected bedding plants carefully blended with exotic fuchsias and plant species from Central and South America. A rare collection of Bonsai specimens adorn the paved area, notably a fine Larix (said to be almost 300 years old) in an original Roman marble container. Even for those who are not particularly interested in gardens, Ilnacullin is an attractive place to visit. There are many interesting scenic views of the surrounding district of the island. Ilnacullin and its surrounding waters are rich in wildlife, with the seals which frequent the rocks on the southern shore being of particular interest to many visitors.

- Manie Wolvaardt

• ”Dear Johann & friends, thanks for a simply an outstanding newsletter which I w ill keep on record with all the others I receive from you! The descriptions are so vivid & the pics out the top drawer!”
  Adv Louis Nel - Corporate Legal Facilitator, Benchmark
   

• “Hi Tessa, thanks once again for your hard work and patience in preparing our itinerary. Everything worked out perfectly and we had a FABULOUS time!!  I enjoyed every moment! Keep well!!”
  Mariè Viljoen - Bloemfontein
   

• “Beste Nerina, baie dankie vir die moeite met die verandering van ons kaartjies en al die reëlings. As ek nog een dag langer in Nigerië moes bly.....”
  Van Aardt Smit - UFS Bloemfontein
   

• “In March I left for Italy with my daughters, Stephanie and Debbie – I had not been in Italy since 1972. We stayed at the Hotel Diana, in Rome, which was centrally situated, near shops, restaurants, as well as the train station. From Rome, we visited Capri, a 3 hour  train journey to Naples, then 1 hour ferry crossing - but it was well worth it.  Capri is a quaint village with lots of pizza pasta restaurants, and shopping … to die for! In Rome we joined a night tour of the city and visited Trevi Fountain, where Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn made the movie “Three coins in a Fountain”. Off to Florence, which we most enjoyed.  So many modern museums aka Gucci, Prada, Valentino, Dior and Versace!  Regrettably didn’t do too much shopping as this is Billionaire Terrority!!  We also visited Venice, which still has a lot of charm and then took a trip to Sienna and San Gimignano which has a lot of history and most interesting.  It was in the quaint village of Sienna, that I found my designer Roberta Cavellie handbag - one I had been looking for a while!
  I attended the Cosmoproof show in Bologna which was mind boggling – Nail Manufacturers from all over the world came here to exhibit their goods.  A huge and impressive show. Tessa I followed your itinerary to the T and we had a wonderful time.!  Thank you.”
  Rayna Cramer - Bloemfontein

• “Tessa, Melissa and Mike had a wonderful time! To quote: "Best Vacation Ever!" I'm glad they had good weather in Capetown too. They evidently only got rained on heavily one day at Vuyetela.  They told me that they were extremely pleased with Craig from Trailfinders, that he was absolutely wonderful! They had one scary incident their first night there, when 3 men with knives wanted to relieve them of their cash, but they ended up safe and with their money still with them, so it turned out all right in the end. Melissa and Mike brought us your paperwork for our trip. Thanks again, and tell Craig he made an impression.”
  Gail Haas - USA